I travelled a lot on steam trains still in daily use when I backpacked around India in about 1980. Lovely to see and hear. But with all the carriage windows open in the Indian heat, everything inside was covered in black gritty coal ash. Pretty messy and not all that romantic. But it was a great way to travel.
I mostly went second class where you had a seat reserved in an alcove with half a dozen other passenger so always plenty of good company and some very interesting conversations. And the food was just amazing. You ordered it at one station, and a station or two later, an Indian curry feast was delivered to you from the station cookhouse. It was a moveable dinner party for sure.
Third class was a total melee. No reserved seating and they sold as many tickets as they could. So you had to fight for a seat, or even room to stand, and spend the journey jammed in unable to hardly move. And there seemed to be a less than endearing custom. Each little alcove had a small fan like a desk fan with wire guard around it, suspended from the ceiling. The preferred place for those sitting on the upper luggage rack to put their sweaty sandals to cool off was right on top of the wire guard around the fan, thus blowing fragrant sandal fumes over the passengers below. Unforgettable!