X2 type mini mill PCB speed control

[John HindleParticipant @johnhindle16305]

I have my mini mill in my garden shed with no permanent power supply.I noticed over this last winter that there was a huge amount of condensation on my mini mill enough to soak a tissue.I suspect that this amount of condensation has caused failure of the PCB

If I replace the PCB this could happen again.The only option I can see is to use a conformal coating on the PCB.I have googled and found a product called Techspray turbo coat acrylic conformal coating for sale at http://www.ams-electronics.co.uk/product_details.asp?CategoryID=25.this would seem to be the ideal answer.

My question really is is it safe to use this or a similar product on the PCB without damaging it.

 

Thanks John

[John HindleParticipant @johnhindle16305]

PCB failure due to condensation

[Frank DolmanParticipant @frankdolman72357]

     On circuit boards that I have made myself, I have always used Holts

   ‘Dampstart’ from Halfords because it is so easy to get..  I now have a

   Maplin next door to Halford, so the next can will be the right stuff.

     I have always been careful to mask things like pots and edge

   connectors which have contacts open to the spray because I suspect

   that you could easily get a joint that works well when first done but

   after a tiny movement from vibration or temperature change,

   becomes unreliable.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Hi John,

Long term answer and cheapest in the end is to have permanent elec. supply and buy lo-wattage heater or make el-cheapo like I did and trust me it works perfectly, well, in my shed it does. I believe there is such a thing as a Piano heater, 15w. Or find/make 3-ply wood box to protect bulbs and fit 4 batten-holders in bottom, connected in series so the 4x60W bulbs just glow. I found this works perfectly under thick plastic cover over mill and very cheap to run. Just be very careful to ensure connector screws tight and insulated. SWITCH OFF b4 you use mill! 

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

There is also a heating pad that fits on the back of bathroom mirrors to prevent them steaming up,they can be bought here in NZ. I’v use the light bulb in an organ with success.Ian S C

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi John

I started out like you,
a shed in garden, but before I got the permanent electrical line, I
lined out the shed with loft insulation between the framework, then
covered with hardboard, the roof is done as well, make sure there are
no holes to course draughts which course the condensation (my opinion
of course), next use 2 m/m clear plastic has supplied by Wickes to
double glaze windows, if one or two open draught proof them.

I had my ML10 in my old
shed from 1982 and had very very little condensation/rust and rubbed
an oily rag on it when I remembered that is using, cheapo 3in1 from
wilkinsons or a pound shop nowadays

In my new 12ftx8ft with
6ft eaves I bought last year I have not double glazed the windows
has yet and I paid for it with light rust on X1 table even though it
was covered with a nylon/rayon sheet,

(this
may have helped course it, has I normally use an old curtain of
cotton on the lathe ), (my opinion of course).

In the roof i used the
large sheets of foam used by the building industry for insulation
and made a tight fit to spare using glue (big mistake, shrinkage is
too much use cheapo silicone from pound shop in circular blobs).
Knock up two T pieces of any spare timber to hold up the foam while
it dries.

Of course it wont stop
it completely so still pays to wipe over with an oily rag, one that
has been soaked in the cheap 3in1

I used 100 m/m  loft insulation and cut in half has it was cheaper at that time

I have had my X1 for I
believe 6 years and only just done a long job on it for the pcb to
fail and that was only slitting some collets for mandrel stops,
turned out it was a loose wire, which arceurotrade sorted for a few
pounds but it appears it is a common occurrence,
there was no moisture in the compartment where the pcb is kept has I
had to strip it and the motor to send to arceurotrade to check
everything was alright when they were finished with it.

yours Tony Spencer

[John HindleParticipant @johnhindle16305]

Thanks everyone for your replies,all your posts seem very much valid and it looks like I need to tackle the condensation problem at its source and not just concentrate on its effect.It looks like I`m going to be pretty busy this next few weeks.

 

Regards John

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

My workshop is my garage, and rather than attempt to prevent condensation in the garage itself, I have decided to tackle it by keeping the machines slightly warm. To this end I have fitted  some small enclosure heaters from RSWWW onto both the lathe and the mill.

 

The lathe has been fitted with these for some years now and has not had any condensation whatsoever. The mill has only been there for 18months, but that does seem ok as well.

 

Regarding condensation in a hut. I have a hut which was going to be used for electronic stuff so I fitted it with two tubular heaters. Back in January, I found that my expensive test gear was running with water. I have now moved this gear back into the house.

 

Regards,

 

Peter G. Shaw

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi john

I forgot to say that arceurotrade wanted the motor has well to be sure that it was not the cause of the pcb going down

 

yours tony

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