X2 speed controller

[tom horseParticipant @tomhorse80571]

Having just had the electronic board fail on my x2 after having sorted the rest of the PO's 'mods' I really didn't fancy forking out another 100 odd quid for a new board. A quick search on ebay found an abundance of 220v and 110 v dc speed controllers complete with on/off switch and rheostat all for less than 30 quid.

It arrived today and after looking at it while scratching me head I decided that I could bin the on/off switch and the rheostat from the new controller and just use the original switch gear and wires.

Now the mill works as it should with the exception of the yellow overload warning light, but I'm fairly sure I'll notice if it stalls due to heavy handedness and therefore I'm not going to bother with it. I did think about installing it to the motor wires using a relay but then it would come on when ever the machine was on but not turning.

i could go into great detail about which wire goes where but it's fairly obvious once you have a look at it. having said that if anyone does decide to retrofit one of these cheap controllers and is stuck with the wiring you can always PM me and I'll send details.

I've no idea on how reliable it will be as I've only just fitted it but I wouldn't have thought it can be worse than the original one

[tom horseParticipant @tomhorse80571]

[herbert punterParticipant @herbertpunter99795]

I had this problem but then I fitted higher rated SCRs (and a fan in the control box), I can stall the motor, put on heavy cuts, no more trouble.

Bert

[tom horseParticipant @tomhorse80571]

i did search around the internet but i couldn't find any other sieg speed controller that would fit without changing to a brushless motor. Which was going to put the total spent on the mill up near the price of an X3. something I wasn't prepared to do.

So far the mill is capable of deeper cuts than before and the motor/controller show no signs of cutting out. i just need to sort out the alignment of the table with the spindle, as the PO has cut and shut the whole set-up while attaching it to a huge frame of blue painted angle iron, I assume in an effort to get rid of any vibration.

All in all it's been a bit of a pig in a poke but we'll get there in the end, unlike my S7 which i picked up for a couple of hundred and that only need a clean up and a coat of paint.

[oldveloParticipant @oldvelo]

Hi Tom

This starts alarm bells with me

"as the PO has cut and shut the whole set-up while attaching it to a huge frame of blue painted angle iron, I assume in an effort to get rid of any vibration"

A sturdy angle iron frame that has any distortion from welding will distort the cast iron frame on the mill and cause misalignment problem.

A quick check loosen the hold down bolts and check if there is clearance under the feet of the mill with a feeler guages.

Fabricate shims to that thickness and fit to the offending bolt do not tighten just yet.

Lock the all Gibs with the table in approximately the middle of the travel

Fit a Dial Test Indicator on an arm from the spindle and check the reading on the dial with the plunger on the outside end of the table and write it down.

Repeat on the other corners

Tighten the holding down bolts and recheck the four DTI readings

If all four are the same as the original readings you have it right first time.

If not them you will have to add shim where the DTI shows that the base has distorted.

You can Add a washer under the feet to make it a bit easier to shim true

Or use Short jacking screws and adjusting nuts Look at an example in my Photo Album.

Eric

[tom horseParticipant @tomhorse80571]

I was going to bin the mounting bolts and use the spare set of Myford raising block screws and nuts that I have . Which would eliminate the need for accurately made shims. Although making the shims would be a good exercise in precision.

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