Which type of pin

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

This is the block I bored and the blank end arbor in position. I am going to loctite the arbor and then pin it as suggested. The block is 44 mm square. I was considering using a roll pin is that a good solution

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Nige what is the square doing is it a collet chuck holder if so I would use a precision hardened dowel in a reamed hole as it is possible to get a small movement with a roll pin. Another possible pin you could use is a taper pin but you would need a taper ream for that.

David

[Jim NicParticipant @jimnic]

A roll pin will be visible, of course. If you never want to get the arbor out then cross drill and use a steel pin Loctited in. A couple of strokes with a fine file and it'll be invisible.

Jim

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

If there’s torque on it you have to ask if a roll pin’s strong enough…

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Bit of 3, 4 or 5mm mild steel rod if you have something that size knocking about, drill a hole to the nominal size of the rod no need for reaming or anything fancy and loctite it into the hole. Though for the drilling tool you are making just the Loctite will do.

Nige is making one of these but with a square head

 

Edited By JasonB on 08/06/2018 21:01:17

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Never been a lover of the ordinary single slit roll pin. Especially not now when there are so many truly crappy ones about. As in most of the economically priced multi-size sets. Being improperly made of poor materials they are weak and easily deform.

Spirol type where the material is rolled up inside the pin rather than being a simple slit cylinder are far stronger. Much more expensive tho'.

Official engineering way is taper pin. But then you need a reamer too. Who can buy one taper pin? And from where?

Plain steel pin from available material as suggested by Jim will do fine.

Another strong type to look out for is a solid pin with one or two sharp ridges along its length. Looks like they have been raised by knocking a sharp chisel straight into the side. Sorry dunno the right name but the box of various sizes I found way back have been very useful.

For small jobs don't discount the humble nail trimmed neatly to length. Albeit stronger, proper wire, nails rather than the modern DIY shed tat. Probably need to hunt in Dads or Grandads handy box for them. That's why I keep my stash of old ones. Pop rivet mandrels are good too. I keep some of each size about for small pins, temporary dowels et al.

Clive.

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

Thank you everybody for the advice and great info on a variety of pin options. Jason's post says all about what I am making and thanks Jason for the advice. I think I will pin it as you suggest if just for the engineering practice

Nige

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Even a grub screw, screwed into a dimple in the blank end would do. Easily removed if ever necessary. The loctite will likely never move and the extra is just insurance – costs little and gives peace of mind.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

Posted by JasonB on 08/06/2018 20:56:37:

Nige is making one of these but with a square head

A 'crotch centre'.

[J HancockParticipant @jhancock95746]

Too late now but had you considered a shrink fit ?

[MikelkieParticipant @mikelkie]

J Hancock's idea is most of the time the best way to secure an insert of some sort and does not need much skill, i do a lot of successful heat shrinking.

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