Which steel for studs?

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Which steel for studs?

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  • #762824
    John McCulla
    Participant
      @johnmcculla

      I’m hoping to make some 9/16″ studs, 4″ long, UNF on one end, UNC on the other. They hold the hydraulic pump in place on a Ferguson 35 tractor. My question is this, what steel should I use for this? I only have EN1A round bar ATM, and I assume something a bit stronger is needed.

      Any advice is much appreciated!

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      #762826
      Brian Wood
      Participant
        @brianwood45127

        Hello John,

        What you have will probably do, but I would be tempted to improve the spec a bit and use some EN8

        Regards   Brian

        #762840
        AStroud
        Participant
          @astroud

          If the pump flange has no rotational location on the mounting housing the studs need to provide the necessary friction grip when tightened to react the pump shaft torque and in my opinion EN1A should be fine to allow the necessary stud tightening torque. Going to a higher spec material will allow a greater tightening torque but with the risk of pulling the studs out of their threads though at 9/16″ you would need to go some on the torque wrench to cause such damage.

          #762854
          SillyOldDuffer
          Moderator
            @sillyoldduffer

            Any answer will be guesswork unless someone knows what stress the stud was designed to take.

            So, consider what happens if a stud breaks?

            • If nothing expensive, dangerous or horribly inconvenient can occur, and EN1A is to hand, then use it.  Not because EN1A is the right answer, but because it’s easy!
            • If a stud breaking might cause havoc, then play it safe and use the stronger material, which is EN8.

            EN1A’s advantage is it’s a delight to machine.   EN8 isn’t so nice but it’s cheap and nearly twice the strength of EN1A.

            Seems unlikely here, but beware: if the stud is safety critical, then EN8 with cut threads is unlikely to be ‘good enough’ and an alloy steel with rolled threads might be needed.

            Dave

            #762876
            duncan webster 1
            Participant
              @duncanwebster1

              You can’t specify a material unless you know the stress it will be subjected to. ‘Studs have to be strong’ is a knee jerk reaction. Assuming it screws into a cast iron gearbox , most of the load will be taken on the top couple of threads, so there is no point having the stud stronger than the cast iron. I’d use your EN1, a lot easier to machine to  a decent surface finish.

              If you look up typical uses of EN1, then studs is in the list.

              #762910
              densleigh
              Participant
                @densleigh

                Why not try Sparex.com  – they supply parts and pieces fro your tractor.

                 

                No Connection except as a customer

                #762916
                old mart
                Participant
                  @oldmart

                  You could dangle the whole tractor from one 9/16″ stud, so simply holding on a hydraulic pump would be within the capabilties of any steel alloy.

                  #762927
                  Neil Lickfold
                  Participant
                    @neillickfold44316

                    Buy the UNC long capscrews that will have the rolled thread for attaching to the cast iron part. You can screw cut the UNF thread for the nut side of the part. If you use a full form UNF insert, you will have the correct root radius on the thread form. The most common failure of fasteners I have seen, is too small a root radius being used on the thread form. The 12.9 capscrews are not difficult to turn and cut a thread on the plain shank end. You can create the long run out with the end of the thread form as well,(Wind out at a constant rate and then stop)or use a generous R2mm tool to create the thread end undercut.

                    Neil

                    #762936
                    Tony Pratt 1
                    Participant
                      @tonypratt1
                      On old mart Said:

                      You could dangle the whole tractor from one 9/16″ stud, so simply holding on a hydraulic pump would be within the capabilties of any steel alloy.

                      I thought that as well, but didn’t want to say it. 🙂

                      Tony

                      #762940
                      noel shelley
                      Participant
                        @noelshelley55608

                        As Neil has said, buy long bolts in unc and cut down, 8.8 will be fine, 12.9 is a bit over the top. Noel

                        #762954
                        Fulmen
                        Participant
                          @fulmen

                          Underestimate the strength of modern machine bolts at your own peril!

                          A tractor engine is hostile territory. High loads, thermal cycling, vibrations and heavy handed mechanics subject all components to constant punishment. You should always follow (or exceed) OEM ratings when possible.

                          I would start with partially threaded machine bolts in a UN grade equivalent to 10.9 or 12.9 (‘m clueless when it comes to UN fasteners, but I’m sure you’ll figure it out). These grades are though as heck but still machinable (with carbide tools at least) and should be on par with commercial bolts downgraded one level.

                           

                          #762970
                          David George 1
                          Participant
                            @davidgeorge1

                            The original studs were threaded diferent threads on each end for a reason. You should use a course thread into cast iron housing for thread streangth and the other end should have a fine thread which should has a fine shallower thread with a High tensile nut which will resist vibration causing it to unscrew. You could always use EN16 T  steel which is slightly stronger than EN8 steel.

                            David

                            #762982
                            SillyOldDuffer
                            Moderator
                              @sillyoldduffer
                              On Tony Pratt 1 Said:
                              On old mart Said:

                              You could dangle the whole tractor from one 9/16″ stud, so simply holding on a hydraulic pump would be within the capabilties of any steel alloy.

                              I thought that as well, but didn’t want to say it. 🙂

                              Tony

                              I’m dreadful at sums, but I think a 9/16″ EN1A rod passes the yield point at about 3 tons, after which it’s permanently deformed.

                              The problem is we’re all guessing.  I agree EN1A should be OK for this purpose but I guess we’re all assuming the stud doesn’t need to be strong, perhaps because we expect this to a restoration project and the tractor isn’t going to be worked hard. Might think different if we knew how the stud related to the pump and tractor.  For example, did Massey Ferguson specify strong studs because the hydraulic pump subjects them to a powerful pulsating load that causes fatique cracking?

                              John didn’t say why the old studs have to be replaced.  I assumed rust, but what if they broke in service…

                              Dave

                              #762985
                              Fulmen
                              Participant
                                @fulmen

                                @Dave: I think that “the weakest link” rule will apply here (unless the friction coefficient of the coarse threads are  higher). EN16 sounds like a decent material, closer to what I would expect from something like 10.9 or 12.9 bolts. Again, I know nothing about UK steels so while I can look them up I don’t know enough to recommend any.

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