‘What LatheXXXXX sorry 3D Printer should I buy’

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 21/02/2018 07:48:59:

Posted by XD 351 on 21/02/2018 05:41:50:

Its hard to see but the last print has a better finish what sort of print nozzle to print bed clearance are you guys running ? Geeetech recommended .5 – 1mm which seems excessive as the nozzle is 0.4 mm – I tried it and it won't stick to tue table , 0.2 and it won't extrude so i settled on 0.4

Factory 3D recommend the thickness of a sheet of A4. so nearer to 0.05mm, for levelling.

I now set it by eye, using its reflection in glass looking for a small but definite gap.

For the first layer I use 0.3mm.

If I get any issues I rely on tweaking the bed levelling rather than changing settings.

—-

I had an interesting failure last week, I did a 5-hour print then when Ni came to release it it was very fragile and the sides of the box (it was a battery storage box) were effectively a fine mesh.

Turned out that I had somehow typed 2.8 in the filament diameter box instead of ~1.75. result – massive under-extrusion!

I have discovered ways of printing OO scale plastic mesh.

Neil

I have always used the A4 sheet (or part of) paper method and had no problems with nozzle-to-print-bed distance. I just go to each of the X-Y corners and do a "Home"-Z operation with a sheet of A4 paper below the nozzle and adjust the bed adjustment screw at that corner until the Home-Z operation is such that I can easily but with slight resistance pull the paper out from under the nozzle. I then go to each corner in turn and repeat – before going to the centre of the bed for a check measurement. For large discrepancies (i.e. when setting up or after changing nozzles) you may need to go around again and repeat the procedure – but in general use this nozzle-print bed distance is just a check-before-printing exercise and might need just a tweat if you are fastidious. My placement of the 3D printer doesn't lend itself to Neil's "reflection" method – and I'm not sure my eyes are that good any more – especially if I've had a glass or two of wine the previous night.

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

The A4 paper i have is 0.2 mm thick so i doubled it over to get 0.4 mm , on the geeetech video it shows how to level the bed and they show a piece of paper folded in two to set the clearance . I think i may have gotten the 0.5 -1mm nozzle to bed clearance from a YouTube channel not from geeetech so it just goes to show you can't always rely on youtube for answer.

Along with the knurled nuts to adjust the bed leveling i am thinking of using an old micrometer barrel/ thimble to replace the z axis homing stop screw , it would have to be better than the wobbly screw that is in there at the moment and i would at least have some sort of ability to accurately adjust this axis homing stop .

Ian

[Barnaby WildeParticipant @barnabywilde70941]

Posted by John Haine on 21/02/2018 09:06:34:

Posted by Mick Charity on 01/02/2018 20:31:47:

Every kid I'd normally give a card stuffed with £cash this xmas I gave them one of these instead :

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097

It was amazing. You could predict quite accurately which ones would just smash it open & the ones who would touch it, feel it, squeeze it, poke & prod it. The questions were endless & a few have now put a 3d printer at the top of their lists.

That is cool! Now I wonder if one could machine the cap using CNC? Or is something that could only be either 3D printed or moulded?

I did consider making 1 or 2 in ally as I've never actually used the 4th axis on my CNC mill.

I think the effort would be better spent on one of the many cryptex aka Da Vinci Code type puzzles.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by XD 351 on 21/02/2018 18:09:04:

The A4 paper i have is 0.2 mm thick so i doubled it over to get 0.4 mm , on the geeetech video it shows how to level the bed and they show a piece of paper folded in two to set the clearance . I think i may have gotten the 0.5 -1mm nozzle to bed clearance from a YouTube channel not from geeetech so it just goes to show you can't always rely on youtube for answer.

I'm a bit confused. typical paper is 0.02mm thick, suitable for the z-clearance when you home the head.

Typical first layer thickeness of 1.4-2mm is set in software and is about ten times as much.

You need to be sure which of the two any source is talking about.

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

0.02 mm = 0.00078 in thats thinner than the fag paper i use to touch off on my mill which are usually 0.001 in thick

The paper i used is out of my laser printer and is the bog standard stuff you buy at a stationary supplier .

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

According to Mr Google, 80gsm bond paper which is used in office printers is 0.1mm thick.

Paul.

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

My mistake the paper is 0.1 thick and doubled over it is of course 0.2 thick that is mm ! Must have been the fumes from the plastic affecting me !

Neil are you sure you are measuring in metric coz 0.1 mm = 0.002 inch .

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by XD 351 on 22/02/2018 02:32:57:

My mistake the paper is 0.1 thick and doubled over it is of course 0.2 thick that is mm ! Must have been the fumes from the plastic affecting me !

Neil are you sure you are measuring in metric coz 0.1 mm = 0.002 inch .

No it isn't! 0.1mm is about 0.040 inches.

Neil

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:34:07:

Posted by XD 351 on 22/02/2018 02:32:57:

My mistake the paper is 0.1 thick and doubled over it is of course 0.2 thick that is mm ! Must have been the fumes from the plastic affecting me !

Neil are you sure you are measuring in metric coz 0.1 mm = 0.002 inch .

No it isn't! 0.1mm is about 0.040 inches.

Neil

More like 0.004 inches

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by blowlamp on 22/02/2018 08:44:30:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:34:07:

Posted by XD 351 on 22/02/2018 02:32:57:

My mistake the paper is 0.1 thick and doubled over it is of course 0.2 thick that is mm ! Must have been the fumes from the plastic affecting me !

Neil are you sure you are measuring in metric coz 0.1 mm = 0.002 inch .

No it isn't! 0.1mm is about 0.040 inches.

Neil

More like 0.004 inches

We are getting there….

[MonomanParticipant @monoman]

Perhaps this conversation reminds me why paper and board are measured by weight. Some of us remember the old imperial paper sizes, still used in countries where metric is not the norm.

As Paul says about 80 gsm is the conventional office paper. (Bond has nothing to do with measurement.) In the trade it is convenient to have a metal template 100mm x 100 mm and to cut out a piece from the paper that size and to wiegh it. Simple movement of the decimal point in the result gives the 'weight' of the paper in grammes per square metre.

Treatment of the fibre used in the papermaking process and the use of various coatings and additives can dramatically affect the thickness of any sheet of paper.

Jerry

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:45:15:

We are getting there….

.

You should, perhaps, print a device to mesh with that lovely new 127 tooth change-wheel

… It would make a rather good wall-mounted display for Metric/Imperial conversions.

MichaelG.

[capnahabParticipant @capnahab]

I have recently received this printer from china, – $299. It took about 10 minutes to set up and start printing. Really impressed with eh build quality, print quality and supplied software. No associations etc. Also this guys video is great.

Edited By capnahab on 22/02/2018 16:44:39

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Interesting machine, how rigid is it as seems to have very long unsupported arms? Needs a heated bed and the screws in the middle of the build plate are a bit odd!  Quite a good web-site though *** Cetus 3D ***

John

Edited By Journeyman on 22/02/2018 17:51:16

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Posted by capnahab on 22/02/2018 16:43:20:

I have recently received this printer from china, – $299. It took about 10 minutes to set up and start printing. Really impressed with eh build quality, print quality and supplied software. No associations etc. Also this guys video is great.

Edited By capnahab on 22/02/2018 16:44:39

Please keep this forum thread informed about your experience with this machine – it's good points and any bad points. This is a new way of doing it and if it's as good as the video shows – I might get one.

[capnahabParticipant @capnahab]

The linear rails are bolted to aluminium extrusion, they are rigid. Compared to just about every other printer out there it seems very rigid . The stepper motors are moons. The rails are made by IKO. It looks a properly engineered solution to me. It prints very well, – I have only used PLA from a 0.4 nozzle so far. It prints very good rafts that are easy to separate from the bed. From my limited experience the prints are very good at 0.4mm requiring only minimum finishing. It prints very nice threads from Fusion360. The holes in the bed are under the raft and make no impact on anything. You can place your print away from them in the software if necessary. There is a heated bed as an extra. I bought one but haven't needed to use it yet. Also I have no enclosure. Users have made their own on the web.

There are settings for simplify 3d which I haven't used yet. It works well with its own software and Fusion360.

 

 

Edited By capnahab on 22/02/2018 22:10:52

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Here's an open invitation for anyone with a 3D printer to write a 'one man/woman and his/her 3D printer' artcile for MEW.

A good article would cover the strengths and weaknesses of the printer and also showcase some of eth useful things done with the printer.

If anyone wants to write one, email me at neil.wyatt@mytimemedia.com

A lengthy article could pay for a typical kit, a shorter one keep you in PLA and other consumables for a year.

Neil

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:45:15:

Posted by blowlamp on 22/02/2018 08:44:30:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:34:07:k

Posted by XD 351 on 22/02/2018 02:32:57:

My mistake the paper is 0.1 thick and doubled over it is of course 0.2 thick that is mm ! Must have been the fumes from the plastic affecting me !

Neil are you sure you are measuring in metric coz 0.1 mm = 0.002 inch .

No it isn't! 0.1mm is about 0.040 inches.

Neil

More like 0.004 inches

We are getting there….

I'm claiming temporary insanity there ! It's either that or permanent stupidity !

Neil,

I'm surprised that you haven't already received a few articles on 3D printing considering how useful it could be in the workshop .

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by XD 351 on 22/02/2018 23:47:17:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:45:15:

Posted by blowlamp on 22/02/2018 08:44:30:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/02/2018 08:34:07:k

Posted by XD 351 on 22/02/2018 02:32:57:

My mistake the paper is 0.1 thick and doubled over it is of course 0.2 thick that is mm ! Must have been the fumes from the plastic affecting me !

Neil are you sure you are measuring in metric coz 0.1 mm = 0.002 inch .

No it isn't! 0.1mm is about 0.040 inches.

Neil

More like 0.004 inches

We are getting there….

I'm claiming temporary insanity there ! It's either that or permanent stupidity !

Neil,

I'm surprised that you haven't already received a few articles on 3D printing considering how useful it could be in the workshop .

The insanity is obviously catching as I spotted your mistake and made my own!

I do get articles on 3D printing, but I get enough requests for more it's clear one very several months doesn't meet the level of interest.

Neil

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

Yes it seems many model engineers are happy doing things the way they have always done and are not interested in new technology . Unfortunately they don't look at things like 3d printing as being of any use to them which is unfortunate as i feel it is always better to add another string to one bow !

I know of a few youtube creators that are using 3d printing for prototyping model engines and making patterns for casting work – all done quicker and probably more accurate than they could make them the old way .

I have now fitted some knurled thumbwheels to the hotbed for ease of levelling and it is so much easier than using an allen key ! Glass bed also fitted and now experimenting with various bonding agents to see what works best for ABS . I have also made up a bracket that clamps to the extruder stepper motor that allows a dti to be mounted for bed levelling and to square up the X and Y axis using a custom made square that clamps to the hotbed . I also made up some small angle brackets to ensure the main frame is at 90 deg to the X&y axis so the z axis isn't doing the leaning tower of pizza sort of thing .

I am also thinking of replacing the dodgy Z axis homing stop screw with a micrometer assembly along with a bearing assembly at the top of the z axis feed screws to take the bounce out of the z axis . Luckily i don't have the wobble problem i have seen on youtube – i think they tightened the locating grub screw before tightening the clamp screws on the flex coupling , i tightened the clamp screws first then nipped up the locating grub screw last and only very lightly at that . Alloy extruder unit also fitted – much better grip on the filament and the plastic one seemed to stick a bit so getting a uniform pressure on the filament was difficult .

Ian.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

This is a delayed answer to the request for the gear generator for OnShape.

Unfortunately, I've been been away during the so didn't have a chance to answer.

More telling, I can't remember. However, this search in the OnShape forum seems to turn up some good options.

**LINK**r

Iain

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

Has anyone tried anything like the Anycubic Photon UV cure liquid resins? The prices are high, but may be worth it in quality of the result. Would want to touch & feel the resulting output before committing to one.

Wanhao do one too, the D7 it appears.

Regards

Richard.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

See Mark Noel's article in the latest MEW. He went to a demo and the photo-cure resins were very impressive.

Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Random observation, I've had a few unexplained and temporary x-shifts recently. My x-axis belt had become a bit loose, took off the tensioner, shortened it by two 'teeth' and refitted it. Hopefully it will now behave.

Yes, I remembered to put the tensioner in the bits box!

[richardandtracyParticipant @richardandtracy]

Oh, is it out?

Been looking at the announcement banner line at the top of each page before looking in the shops for a new edition. I have the May one currently advertised.

Regards,

Richard.

[Author]

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