What filament material do you use on your 3D printer?

[RobinParticipant @robin]

Posted by Steve Skelton 1 on 05/07/2020 11:35:05

I have just placed an order for 3D LAC spray.

I just tried a brief squirt of that sprayed on to a hot Pyrex glass bed.

I still haven't figured out how to remove the PLA prints without the kind of violence than misaligns the table.

Also, it doesn't tell me how to get the 3DLAC off the Pyrex. One squirt has done 4 prints so far and shows no sign of wearing thin, but I have a hankering to revisit that initial invisible layer before it became scuffed.

[Steve Skelton 1Participant @steveskelton1]

Robin, I have read reports that you have to use 3D LAC sparingly, otherwise, the result you have experienced will occur.

With ABS I generally find that trying to remove ABS prints when the bed is hot can be difficult but when the bed cools to room temperature (a differential of 90 C) the print is already detached due to differential shrinkage rates. So am assuming the same will happen with 3D LAC or at least be easier to remove.

We will see!

I am assuming that 3D LAC is soluble in acetone – have you tried this to remove it from the bed?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Have you tried ABS Juice? (a solution of filament/failed print in acetone) as an adhesion promoter?

[Steve Skelton 1Participant @steveskelton1]

Neil, I use a number of methods from ABS juice directly onto the glass bed, ABS juice onto Kapton tape and Kapton tape by itself. The best results I get are using nothing at all on a 110 C bed providing the footprint is neither too large or too small (depending on the complexity and design of the print).

There are other ideas I am now looking at following a YouTube vid I mentioned in a previous post which suggested using "mouse ears" when at the stl/gcode stage as an adhesion promoter. This looks very promising but as yet I have not tried it.

Steve

[The Novice EngineerParticipant @thenoviceengineer]

Posted by Steve Skelton 1 on 06/07/2020 09:22:43:

 

I am assuming that 3D LAC is soluble in acetone – have you tried this to remove it from the bed?

 

Hi

I believe the solvent used in 3D LAC is Denatured alcohol ,

I use IPA [ The industrial version not the Malty Amber type !! ] to clean the heat bed surface.

Methylated spirits could also be used

To get a decent area of a model to adhere to the bed I have often use the "Brim" feature about 5 -20mm depending on the size of the object and how large a flat area it already has on the base.

The brim is easy to remove from the object and doesn't use much filament compared to a Raft, serves much the same task as " Mouse Ears" but you don't have to design it in.

The Brim feature is in Cura and Slic3r, I use Repetier Host on the PLA printer [Leapfrog Creatr]  but the proprietary UpStudio doesn't have it for the ABS  UpBox !

 

Steve

Edited By The Novice Engineer on 06/07/2020 12:08:30

Edited By The Novice Engineer on 06/07/2020 12:25:33

[Steve Skelton 1Participant @steveskelton1]

Hi Steve,

IPA is even better – I do not like using acetone – a bit aggressive.

I have used the brim feature but it goes all around the print and for some of the prints I do would be tricky to remove.

It is only on a few of the prints that I have done in the past where I have had a problem with lifting at the extremities but using 3D LAC is just another method available and I thought I would give it a try.

Steve

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I use IPA [ The industrial version not the Malty Amber type !! ] to clean the heat bed surface.

IPA is isopropyl alcohol. Next ‘ol’ up from ethyl, but the side chain alternative (isomer) to the long chain version n-propanol.

Methyl is C1, ethyl is C2 and propyl is C3. Industrial methylated spirits is ethanol denatured with methanol (and often something to make it taste horrid – as methanol is poisonous). There are other denaturing compounds, to prevent ethyl alcohol being used as a drink (without the tax being paid), IPA being one of them.

[VersabossParticipant @versaboss]

While I don' want to detain someone using ABS filament, I gave up after just a few trials and gave my spools away,

What I use now is ASA, with a bet temp of 80-90°, and a nozzle temp. of 235-240°. According to my IR thermometer, the real bed temp. is somewhat less. The print surface is BuildTak, anything holds perfectly on that.

material #2 is PET-G, bed temp 70°, nozzle temp 225°. No problems with the prints.

My printer is an Ortur, quite happy, although the print surface as delivered was scrap, and the leveling sensor does not work correctly. But the guides are imho better than what is used on Creality and Anet and similar ones.

Regards,
Hans

[Author]

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