What Did you do Today 2022

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 21/02/2022 12:53:51:

Posted by Dullnote on 21/02/2022 12:01:10:

… dug this out a couple of week ago now retirement has given me more time. It is the start of a cannon serialised in the model engineer a long time ago.

…

workmanship not the best…

…

Workmanship looks good to me Dullnote.

Not a simple cannon either! Is it a British 13, 15 or 18 pdr Mk. I QF? Ehrhardt, circa 1900?

Dave

when does a gun become a cannon, and vice versa? Spitfires had machine guns, but ME109s had cannons, but then tanks have guns.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

…

when does a gun become a cannon, and vice versa? Spitfires had machine guns, but ME109s had cannons, but then tanks have guns.

At the time it was in use, the 15-pr. would've been called a gun. Infantry weapons were smallarms.

Terminology changes with time – in Tudor times and for a century or two later, a 'whole cannon' was a 42-pounder, and a demi-cannon a 32-pounder – whilst there were smaller and varied designs known as culverins, sakers, minions, falcons and several others. All of these would shoot solid roundshot with black powder.

For automatic, aircraft-mounted weapons, the division between machine gun and cannon seems to be at around 15mm. calibre. There were some odd crossovers, like a German 13mm MG that fired tiny artillery-like shells with machined bodies and coppery driving bands. Plus of course the Germans designated the 20mm cannon on the ME109s as the MGFF.

Uncle Sam calls battleship guns rifles.

So I'm afraid it's all a bit vague and depends on usage.

Edited By Mick B1 on 23/02/2022 21:52:38

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

ME109s

BF109s

Nigel B.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by mgnbuk on 23/02/2022 22:42:04:

ME109s

BF109s

Nigel B.

According to Wikipedia allied aircrew and some German called it ME109. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me

[RobinParticipant @robin]

There's a thing on YoutTube where they actually fly an ME262. I didn't think any survived, but my brain and reality parted company years ago.

[ChrisLHParticipant @chrislh]

Re. gun/cannon on aircraft, could it be that guns fire inert missiles whereas cannons fire shells containing an explosive charge which detonates on impact ?

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by duncan webster on 24/02/2022 15:14:26:

Posted by mgnbuk on 23/02/2022 22:42:04:

ME109s

BF109s

Nigel B.

According to Wikipedia allied aircrew and some German called it ME109. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me

That's what I thought.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by ChrisLH on 24/02/2022 17:44:02:

Re. gun/cannon on aircraft, could it be that guns fire inert missiles whereas cannons fire shells containing an explosive charge which detonates on impact ?

I think that's more or less the case, but some cannon shells have fancier fuzing than just impact detonation. But of course there are explosive and incendiary rifle-calibre bullets too. Ain't no 100% rule AFAIK.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by ChrisLH on 24/02/2022 17:44:02:

Re. gun/cannon on aircraft, could it be that guns fire inert missiles whereas cannons fire shells containing an explosive charge which detonates on impact ?

I think that's more or less the case, but some cannon shells have fancier fuzing than just impact detonation. But of course there are explosive and incendiary rifle-calibre bullets too. Ain't no 100% rule AFAIK.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, today I finished making and fitting a new baffle for a Sievert 2954 heating nozzle. It's one that I've had for many years, salvaged from being scraped from my old job from years ago, as the original baffle had fallen out and lost.

I first marked the shape out, using measurements that I ascertained from a full frontal photo of one that I found online.

The four centre punch marks between each leg were drilled 2.5mm and a 2mm straight burr was used in my small battery drill to form a slot between each leg.

The shape was then cut out with a hacksaw and filled to the lines, the circular lines are for guidance for final diameter of the three legs.

The legs had to be bent at the centre section and then back at the outer ends, the centre section just happened to be 17mm in diameter, so a M17 nut was stuck into position with double sided tape so that three of the flats lined up with the legs. From memory this baffle had a set of it's own thickness or there about, the thickness being 3/16" in this case and an offcut from my recently made screw on chuck adapter, had a part drilled hole of the right size, for the legs to sit on and was stuck to this with double sided tape, lining up with the part guide circles scribed on them. The set was then pressed with my fly press.

The return bend had to be done with each leg in turn held in a vice and a adjustable spanner an a small block of steel on each leg. This was then held in my 3" chuck on my mini lathe and held against the premade backstop via a small coil spring on the end of my rotating tailstock centre, and the three legs were turned to size.

I then fitted the baffle into the nozzle and gave it a flame test before fitting it in permanently, just to make sure it all worked OK.

Small indents were then filed in the middle of the end of the legs and the baffle was staked in for good.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 25/02/2022 23:16:03

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Yesterday, made 4 new levelling feet for the Myford cabinet, for when the new 3ph motor is fitted on Monday.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

I have not been idol over the last week I have replaced some greenhouse glass which we lost in the high winds last Friday these lasted for nearly a week Friday being the worst day.

Then Tuesday I started by doing the glass followed by digging the veggie patch and sowing seed in the greenhouse. This did follow a theme as I did this every morning but the afternoons I was free to play in the workshop which meant that I was able to do the odd bit to the loco.

An added extra I did manage to cook my dear wife a meal today which is a normal thing on a Saturday.

I started with drilling 4 holes in the ends of the cross members this was a total of 16 holes then threading them 6BA so a very slow process not wanting to snap either the drill bit or tap in a hole.

Then it was a simple job of cutting and machining some angle iron so that the buffer beams can be attached to the main frames these still need drilling for some iron rivets

And I even found time to prepare some wood for tiny bird houses

[david collins 10Participant @davidcollins10]

hi guys ,ive been marking out footings for new 6m x 4m workshop in brick/block,cant wait😁, yours dave c

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Today finally got the 3 phase motor fitted to my S7 with a friend's help, rolled the lathe back into position on its temporary castors, lifted each end in turn with a trolley jack and fitted the new levelling feet. Lathe transformed, will now run smoothly up to 2500 rpm in top range without shaking itself to pieces. Despite gloomy prognostications, there is no sign of interference between the VFD and the USB connections to the CNC motion controller.

Next step pop the old motor on eBay…

Edited By John Haine on 28/02/2022 18:01:15

[Colin HeseltineParticipant @colinheseltine48622]

Recently obtained a nice Hauser 12" Rotary table

I wanted to use a chuck with this so a visit to Rotagrip and came away with a nice Pratt Burnard 125mm 3 jaw chuck. In order to do fit this I required a suitable faceplate and I could not find any of our normal suppliers with suitable unit. They were all to small to be able to bolt to 'T' nuts fitted in the table slots and also they only appeared to come with 2MT locating tapers whereas I needed a 20mm parallel spigot.

I needed to make my own and M-Machine had a nice piece on SG iron 180mm dia and 24mm thick (ground both sides) at what I felt was a reasonable price.

This was slung in the big 4 jaw chuck on the Colchester, centred and then faced. I decided to use a tangential tool holder to machine the cast iron and took the initial face cut under power without any problems. On the second cut (0.5mm) after a minute or so I heard the sound of the cut change and noticed that the side of the piece of HSS steel was blue and had just suddenly worn away. All suggestions as to why this would have happened would be appreciated.

I switched to a indexable tipped tool and had no further issues.

I roughed out the spigot to around 3.8 mm high and 100mm dia. Then crept up to to the nominal 95mm diameter. Then I took several passes until the chuck would just ease onto the register, this was at 94.97mm. Then took a further 2 thou cut of the face and the slowest speed i could set on the powered cross-feed.

Finished off by turning the perimeter sticking out of the jaws down to 180mm and put a 45 degree chamfer on the corner.

The chuck fits nicely.

Next job is to drill and tap the fixing holes.

I have had several ideas on how to machine the reverse face , but am open to suggestions/improvements.

1) Fit Burnerd Multisize chuck to the Colchester fitted with the largest collet suitable. Chuck up a piece of bar (that will pass through the chuck completely) and then true it up and centre the end. Due to the amount of stick-out I guess it would be wise to use a tailstock revolving centre for additional support. Clamp the new chuck (with faceplate fitted) to the bar, and then face off and produce the 20mm dia spigot which will need to to be around 15mm long.

2)Leave the big 4 jaw chuck mounted on the lathe, remove the jaws from the new chuck (still with faceplate fitted) and insert it into the 4 jaw chuck, center/true it up, and then face off and produce the 20mm dia spigot.

My initial thought is option 1 would be the best.

Colin

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

More or less finished today just got to temper the blades tomorrow.

[Roger HartParticipant @rogerhart88496]

Recently had car instrument panel trouble – random alarms and dial failures. Common problem on older cars of this model. Followed Google and YouTube and re soldered connector pins. Cracked joints on CAN bus pins – very small very hard-to-see cracks.

Now the question is why? vibration maybe, these pins are at the opposite end from the cable clamp – maybe the the cable waggles a bit. The other pins looked OK and Google/YouTube suggest problem is usually these end pins. The bigger question is how to build long term reliable kit, something that could last 2 to 300 years maybe. Looks to be a very difficult problem, most of us are satisfied if the wretched thing works at all let alone lasts over a lifetime.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Hi Bernard, very nice work there – I assume you cast the bodies of the planes. I made the little black plane many years ago and the other plane was made by some aircraft fitters back in 1937 as a present to my dad when aeroplanes were mainly made of wood. The blades were made form a broken machine hacksaw blades.

Bob

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

They are cast in phbronze but not by me they were left to me by a departed friend who was an extraordinary furniture maker with leaning towards chairs. I’ve had them for a while and they are just lumps of metal unless you do something with them. I did temper the blades today and hone them and they work very nicely.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Not so much as what did I do today but more like what I have been up to over the last week.

As it is that time of year that the garden needs attention I have dug the veg patch sown seeds repotted some plants and even found some unknown flower bulbs so stuck those into some pots to see what comes of them.

The greenhouse also needed attention like replace some glass after the winds only three panels and dug the borders in there.

I also ordered the rest of the castings for the Rob Roy so I knew I had them all when needed.

There was also time for some metal work drilled and riveted some angle to a buffer beam pretty happy with it especially on the front where there is only slight evidence of the rivets(A little reading helped here about length and the counter sink for them)

[Terry KirkupParticipant @terrykirkup37827]

This morning I drilled three 13mm holes in a piece of steel bar. Awaiting some 10mm hex bolts to display my latest "Lazy Miller" fix.

I have another newbie question for you Good Folk which I'm certain will have been asked before but I have too much eyestrain to trawl very far today – do I need a rotary table when I have a 3-axis DRO? And if I do, is a tilting one worth getting?

Edited By Terry Kirkup on 04/03/2022 15:06:24

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Not what I did today but yesterday, took delivery of another lithium ion battery for my solar panel storage batteries. Started out two years ago with two 2.4 kWh batteries and realised that electricity wasn’t going to get any cheaper so any solar power that I could store in batteries was going to be a massive bonus. Yesterdays delivery was the fifth battery to add to the rack of batteries, making my storage capacity up to 12 kWh which should help to keep the cost of electricity, that we have to draw from the grid, to a more acceptable cost bearing in mind the forthcoming draconian increases that are forecast. Was very pleased how the upgrade went, unpacked the battery at 2.15 and by 2.30 it was fitted and the batteries were reconnected and working, not the first time I have done it and as they say “practice makes perfect.” I don’t think higher management will sanction any more expenditure on batteries for a little while though. Dave W

[brickyParticipant @bricky]

Trying to flatten the cross rail for the shaper I am building on the mill.As the rail is 420 long and 100 wide there is only the side slot uncovered .After clamping, I milled one side at a time.As the bow was in the middle I could only clamp at the ends and this didn't help the bow which was reduced but still there.I filed the area where the rail bolts onto the table riser.I was then able to turn it over and clamp the rail in the middle through the nut slot.I had to reduce the ends and then moved the clamps and milled the middle section.I now have a flat rail.

Frank

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

At last, finally got to the trial assembly & trial run on my Scotch Yoke engine. It sounds as though there is a knock on it somewhere, I reckon it may be the clearance between the crank pin & the yoke although I have maintained the clearances as per dwg. I've att. link to you tube channel for you look see. Next step will be to strip it back down & see if I can eliminate 'knock', followed by clean & paint job. Excuse the compressor noise, it takes a large volume of air for the cylinder bore size.

**LINK**

**LINK**

Another possibility is the flywheel mass is quite big & the inertia may be making the crankpin slap in the yoke slot ??

George.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Is the cross head getting a bit close to the bolt head holding the guide down at the cylinder end?

You could also play with the valve timing a bit to get some cushioning at the end of the stroke by having it open a bit earlier.

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