+1 for these saws, but the blade has limited life if you are cutting reinforcing bar. When cutting large diameters (and I would say 40mm is large), apply a light pressure on the blade but ensure it is cutting all the time. Too heavier a cut fills the blade gullet and causes the teeth to skid, too light and the teeth get too hot as under normal cutting, the heat is dissipated into the chips (swarf).
Do wear all the protective gear as the chips fly off in unpredictable directions ie: down your neck!
Completed a small threading task once I found, luckily, I do indeed have a 1/4″ BSP die. Two in fact!
Other than that, no metalwork, but did something this evening I never imagined ever doing…
Sitting on a hard pew – a proper timber pew not a plastic chair – in the local parish church, with a half-pint glass of beer on the hymn-book shelf in front of me…..
…. enjoying an organ recital!
Incidentally, for a tour of first-class modern craftsmanship, try the Harrison & Harrison web-site.
I encountered this a couple of years or so ago when trying to find out what that mystery circular slide-rule(??) with the 16-times table and lots of odd-looking fractions on it, was. I’d wondered if it was an organ-pipe calculator, but no, I was assured by H&H.
I cannot compete with Nigel actually finding something he was looking for, I can only dream, but I did manage to remove another part of my mill for cleaning in my tram quest. I think I may want someone there ready to call the ambulance when I reassemble, just in case something gives way 😀
I didn’t find what I was looking for, Robin, if you mean the answer to the “calculator” riddle. That is still a mystery!
What have you supported that head and ram with though? Surely not just the spindle and a block?
This heavy-duty dismantling is similar to what I would have to do to free the sticky quill on my Myford milling-machine. It works but too stiffly for the spring to return it, and for sensitive drilling. The one thing I do not want to do is interfere with the spring. Clock-type springs are nasty, dangerous things and I don’t have the tools or know-how to tame them safely.
By the way… I like the essential item in your second photo!
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Diogenese –
If you do see me on Songs of Praise its my doppleganger!
I ought perhaps add I bought the beer there. The organisers had set up a small table-top bar at the back of the church!
Is the spring on your Myford behind a round cover secured by a knurled knob in the manner of the VMC?
..Not sure whether you might be able to loosen the knob and turn the cover to reduce or increase the return spring strength, some similar models have cut-outs around the periphery of the cover that engage on a pin in the casting so one can do it in controllable steps..
Spent the day at the St Albans club show – well outside mostly doing car park duty. About 8 miles of walking up and down so luckily the weather was great after a week of rain. Managed to resist most of the temptations of the club shop during my tea break. Still plenty there and loads of models. Lots of children attend so hopefully we are instilling an interest for the future.
Thankyou. Yes, the spring is adjustable in that way and I have tried using that, but the quill is equally stiff whatever the adjustment, and whichever way you turn the handle, as if something is binding on it.
The problem may be as simple as congealed grease but you can’t reach the rack and pinion without removing the head from the turret.
Then having all the fun and games of re-tramming it on re-assembly!
This heavy-duty dismantling is similar to what I would have to do to free the sticky quill on my Myford milling-machine. It works but too stiffly for the spring to return it, and for sensitive drilling. The one thing I do not want to do is interfere with the spring. Clock-type springs are nasty, dangerous things and I don’t have the tools or know-how to tame them safely.
I have much the same problem. Fed up with Warco spline clatter I put in an extra short brass spline and sprung it. There then followed a few weeks buying ever more powerful springs out of China. I now have too much spline friction for the sensitive drill handle but I do like being clatter free.
Early on I 3D printed a chunky tool to wind the spring with my fingers outside the danger zone. I was put off making it by the price of large lumps of aluminium, but eventually realised PLA might work.
Mill reassembled without incident, but thanks for worrying about me 😀
One thing that can cause the quill to be very stiff on my Beaver milling machine is if there is any oil between the quill and the head. The fit is sufficiently close that even thin oil will cause problems and way oil just glues it up!
Interesting: oil is supposed to help things slide, not stop them!
A lubrication problem is my first thought – and hope. Either too much, too little or gummed up.
There is no obvious way to lubricate the quill on the Myford machine, suggesting it was greased and “sealed for life”.
One way to test this would be to squirt WD-40 or white spirit (they are much the same stuff anyway) in there and see if it frees things, if I can find an entry point for it; but this will remove any lubricant that is meant to be present, then I’ve the problem of introducing fresh oil or grease.
It also risks removing grease from bearings, which of course I don’t want to do.
The quill will be a steel sleeve sliding directly in the iron head casting, the spindle bearings are inside it.
Probably a bit of a moot point point whether it actually needs lubrication at all, unless perhaps it is frequently used as a drilling machine – I certainly wouldn’t use grease.
I use 32 hydraulic oil from an oil can for the Major which employs a similar construction, but as much for rust prevention and to keep the lock mechanism free as anything.
Probably last oiled over a year ago, through the slot in the front where the depth mechanism slides, oiling the bare quill above it’s housing on the basis that oil will eventually spread itself around the circumference.
Ex work colleague came round with an early Russian camera (KIev 6S), made at Camera Factory No.6 in Kiev in 1970-80’s. This was a large format camera weighing in at around 2Kgs with a large prismatic veiwfinder/rangemeter fitted on top. The eyepiece could take additional special diopter adjusting lenses but these are no longer available from the only repairer in Kiev. He asked me to have a go at making a 2.5 diopter lens from a £1 pair of reading specs.
The lense needed to be 16mm diameter. I popped a lens from the spectacle frame and initially tried to hold it between a 1/2″ diameter dowel held in 3 jaw chuck on Cowells ME90 lathe and with a further dowel on the rotating tailstock. This was going to be an interrupted cut. Started okay but no matter how much pressure I put on via the tailstock it would spin and consequently scratch the plastic lens.
For the next attempt I used four jaw chuck, roughly centralised the lens and then trepanned the centre of the lens out. I had recently bought a very expensive Nikcole 8mm sq tool holder and associated 0.8mm wide parting tool and this worked very well. I had to cut a much wider groove round the lens to give clearance for the bottom of the tool, as I did not wish to grind any of it away. I cut 95% of the way through and then took out of chuck and used Stanley knife to cut required lens away. This was tested for diameter, fitted nicely but the thickness, around 3mm prevented the eyepiece screwing in more than 2 turns. The DRO was now all set up for the 16mm diameter.
His optician had charged him £25 for a 25mm diameter and given him a blank for free. I now had a go at the blank.
Reversed the jaws on the 3 jaw chuck and held the 65mm glass with concave face towards the chuck. Started to trepan the required diameter and then stopped and checked all okay dimension wise. Then moved in a further 2.5mm diameter and went in 1.5 mm deep into the lens. Gradually moved the cross-slide out until DRO read zero, then wound carriage in till I could see the tool was about to break through the front of the lens. Carefully removed lens from blank. I now had a 1.5mm deep recess around the perimeter 2.5mm wide. This now enabled the eyepiece to be screwed in to full depth and hold the lens firmly.
In the picture above you can see the recess left when the lens was removed.
Now repeated the exercise on the 25mm lens the optician had produced. This worked okay but the remnants of the lens disintegrated as I was about to break through.
Both the lenses fitted perfectly and my colleague could now use the viewfinders without spectacles and went away very happy.
Today I made some grinding experiments on the milling machine. I always wanted to have a surface grinder to make small flat surfaces. The milling machine seems to be a good alternative. Here I tested a 100mm fine grit stone. I can also put the stone in the horizontal spindle. And have a few cup stones so this is quite a versatile method. I’m not worried about the lack of protective stone cover. The mill has the handwheels on one side. So I’m hiding behind the machine while grinding 🙂
Have taken over 300 MEW’s from my loft today and spent some time flicking through them. what an amazing resource. just got to find a new home for them so they are easier to get to.
Forncett today and very pleasant it was too, even the sun came out to play. traction engines had a nice road run and quite a few models to see as well as the museum monsters steaming up.
I also visited Forncett Museum today and like Bernard enjoyed seeing a good turnout of model steam engines, also the steam car was taking road runs with passengers aboard.
Andrew was there with an excellent pictorial of parts for his steam engines, also many completed parts all with an impressive finish.
Excellent turnout of locos including scale models running on a good size layout erected outside but with covering.
I am still wondering how on earth the large loco model was taken up the stairs to the display area, mammoth task indeed.
I didn’t think model engineering was as well represented as in previous years when I have attended.
Noel Shelley attended with a boiler and vertical steam engine running all day, Noel also had a small generator with some other steam driven device, not sure what it was but I guess if he reads this he may explain.
Fair number of boats in all sizes on display in an outside area next to the locos.
Rowan gave his usual excellent and very interesting tour of all running engines with many details of how he aquired particular engines, also described collection and re-construction of the various steam engines by his Father, himself and many other helpers, some are still helping out with jobs around the museum, maintaining and running the engines in there spare time, all true steam enthusiasts.
Did some turning brass today making some bushes for use on rubber powered model aircraft, fiddly little pieces from 6mm rod, turned to threading diameter for 4BA, threaded and then drilled through to suit 16swg piano wire, finally parted off and then fitted to a collet for facing the end to dimension needed.