Followed Duncans link to the TWI site and was pleased to see that my usual "difficult iron" MMA, stick, welding method seems to be approved practice.
My Rule 1 is avoid anything taking tensile or anything beyond mild shear stresses like the plague! Usual engineering assessments of what it is and why it broke before agreeing to try. Try being the operative word. Over-engineered "if its stiff enough its strong enough" design and broke 'cos dinkle brain hit it really hard in the wrong place are usually a good start.
If it passes that assessment then decent grind out to give space to weld. Start by buttering on thin layers of weld metal at low current waiting for it to cool properly between layers whist peening with the chipping hammer. Take the grinder to any bits that look bad or are improperly adhered. Four to six buttering passes are usually enough to get a nice clean layer of good weld metal allowing more normal currents and larger rods to be used to finish the join. Still relatively small rods and low current in thin layers followed by peening as it cools ready for the next pass. Can take ages but it works.
But as TWI says wrought iron is very variable and you need to watch what's happening very carefully. I suspect you end up digging pretty much all of the slag inclusions out of the area where you want the weld to adhere. Lord knows what that does to the strength and stress resistance profile in in the joined area. Hence Rule 1.
Doing such repairs on old cast iron with lots of free carbon can leave you looking like a coal miner! Try to avoid architectural stuff. Or at least slap a shower tax on the price.
The relatively inexpensive amateur friendly rods seem to be fine for this sort of work. Probably because they are made to cope with poor technique on a goodly range of materials.
A good inverter welder is much better than the common inexpensive AC buzzbox for this sort of thing.
Best technique is to send them down the road to bother someone else!
Clive.