Warco WM250

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Which bit of the multimeter do I use for that?

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Les,

Thanks for pointing out the smaller connection…..its all too easy to assume when addressing someone from afar…

Now if the wiring were colour coded in accordance with mains wiring, things might be a bit easier…

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Posted by Dusty on 31/01/2017 15:37:14:

Which bit of the multimeter do I use for that?

Hehehee..looks like I was writing while you posted….ermm lowest Ohms range …..for continuity….should read zero, nada, 0……give the switch a good waggle too, just in case there is any crap on the contacts…

Dusty, do you live near Hull? I could jump in the car and come over…..

Edited By John Rudd on 31/01/2017 15:42:15

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Tied that and the only reading I got was the1 that shows when set to ohms. No I be an Essex boy, You know Essex born Essex bred strong in arm weak in the head.

Edited By Dusty on 31/01/2017 15:49:56

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

How confidant are you doing a bit of wiring?

remove the wire marked 10 connected to the small tab on the nvr switch and insulate it so it doesnt cause a problem…take a piece of thin wire, bear the ends, connect one end to the now vacant terminal on the nvr switch, connect the free end to terminal marked 24 on the nvr switch…..

Make sure everything is safe, plug back into mains and see if the nvr switch latches in when you press the green button…..( make sure speed is set to zero….)

If the nvr now latches it looks like the F/R switch is broken……..

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi John,
I think the contact on the forward / reverse switch is an interlock. I think it will be closed in the forward and reverse positions and open in the middle (Off) position. This will prevent switching straight from forward to reverse. as the reversing switch passes though the off position it will cause the NVR to drop out. (My theory)

Dusty, Is your multimeter analoge or digital ?

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 31/01/2017 15:59:46

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Les,

Yup, I concur, although the drawing doesnt show any other interlocks, what was confusing was that Dusty had said that any chuck guard/door switches were wired out……

I'm guessing his dvm is digital….( wild stab in dark ….)

Hope fully if the above jury rigged wiring works it will prove the switch…..

Edited By John Rudd on 31/01/2017 16:04:22

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Will I need to wire the motor back in, I disconnected it in the first test and have not put it back yet. I think this might be a job for tomorrow as Granddaughter has arrived and I am banned from the workshop. Oh well tis another day tomorrow.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

I would leave the motor off for now…as long as there are no bare wires, once the switch has been deemed defective or otherwise, then re-connect the motor, fit replacement part(s) and use the lathe…..

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi John,
The reason I wanted to know if it was an analog meter was because in the past talking people tthough faultfinding they have come back with an answer like "no resistance" When asked to clarify the answer they meant the meter did not move so the resistance was above the range of the meter. (Rather than zero implied by no resistance.) One other thing that can give confusing readings when measuring inductive components is the range switching on auto ranging meters. The fact that the test current has just changed and causes some back EMF in the inductor makes the auto ranging jump back and forth between two ranges giving false readings. If it is a transformer being tested then normally shorting out one of the other windings stops this effect. It is frustrating doing the testing remotely. The tests done so far that have taken days would have only taken minutes if you were doing them yourself.

Edit.  In Dusty's post at 17:12 on the 27th he mentioned clunking noises. I think we should get him to investigate the cause before re connecting the motor.  I think removing the belt from motor then seeing if rotating the motor or the lathe spindle causes the noise.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 31/01/2017 17:28:07

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Les,

Pm sent….

@ Dusty, although I'm trying to get you to focus on one issue at a time, can you confirm Les's concerns re the noise?

Edited By John Rudd on 31/01/2017 17:38:04

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John, Les,

Here goes, this is confusing. Connected 24 to 10 and lo and behold switch latched on. I thought O.K. double check so I reconnected in original configuration (through switch) again NVR latched on. Next I removed the belts and turned the motor by hand I could not feel anything that gave cause for concern, same with the spindle. So I thought connect the motor and see what happens, distribution board trips out.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

When you say the dis board trips out, can you be a bit more specific please?

You have a dis board inyour garage or workplace, instead of rewireable fuses, it has small circuit breakers?

It may have a rccb or earth leakage circuit breaker….( might have a 'test button' on it )..So which is tripping out?

If it is tripping the rccb/elcb, then disconnect the motor, and try again….if its stops tripping, you may need to remove the motor from the lathe and inspect the brushes and the commutator……

No fuses are blowing?

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John, Yes I have a board in my workshop and it is the rccb on the lathe circuit that is tripping out. No have not got fuses other than the one on the lathe and in the plug. Will try again and report back.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Ok,

So you have an earth leakage fault now…..check to make sure you havent trapped any wires on re-assembly….easily done…

Any disturbed wires have gone back to their respective origins?

So, try disconnecting the motor, in its place connect the test lamp used before, power up the lathe and see if the light bulb brightness varies using the speed pot and everything else works as it should…..nvr switch latches, F/R switch is ok……

Edited By John Rudd on 01/02/2017 11:51:06

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John, All works as before using the speed control pot, and all wires are connected as they should non being trapped. I am thinking that this may be a motor problem rather than the control circuits, but then what do I know, but I do know what a pot is having worked at Colvern's many years ago, who made high quality wire wound pots mainly for military purposes.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Hmm…so you connected the lamp and all worked well?

So now we need to tackle the motor issue…..?

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

I will remove the motor, I think I can get to it without moving the lathe, if not I will have to wait until my son-in-law can help. I am afraid it is a bit to heavy for me on my own.

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Motor out, what do I need to look for or test. I think it will be a bit of b******r to get back as the hole for the cable is hidden under the chuck guard micro switch. I will have to cross that bridge when I come to it.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

Can you post up a foto of it?

[Richard MarksParticipant @richardmarks80868]

Posted by Richard Marks on 27/01/2017 17:31:04:

Check for sticky brushes and carbon deposits in the motor causing tracking, common fault on these motors.

Always tie a long piece of string to a lead that you pull through so that you can pull it back again. If you remove the brushes it is then a simple job to disassemble the motor and clean out any carbon dust from the brushes, maybe even replace them if need be. make sure the brushes go back easily and don't stick in the holder

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John Should find photo's as rquested

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

With the motor stood vertical, resting on the pulley end, remove the socket head screws from the end cap. Might be better holding the motor by the bracket in a vice….

Gently pull the end cap from the motor body. What do you see on the copper segments?

With a clean paint brush, gently brush the area around the copper bars removing any grey/black dust that you might see. Ensure that there is no dust/debris between the copper segments……

Now turn attention to the motor end cap. Clean inside with the brush removing any traces of dust…If the brushes have come out of their holders, give them a wipe with a clean rag. Place to one side. Where the brush holders are, on the outside of the end cap, there ought to be two plastic slotted screws, remove and place to one side. Refit the motor end cap, screws and brushes, brush retaining caps (slotted plastic screws..) Ensure the motor turns freely and re-install on the lathe….

Hopefully, on re-assembly all is well when you power it up….

Fingers crossed….

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By John Rudd on 01/02/2017 15:05:13

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Ah this might take a little longer, having removed the two long screws that hold it together, the little so and so will not come apart. I suspect it is only the bearings holding it together. I am confident that I can get it apart but does anyone know of any problems or has taken one of these motors apart. I have taken the precaution of removing the brushes. The other option I suppose, would be to blow it out with an air line. I would prefer to have a look inside just to make sure all is well.

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