Warco WM250

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Nick,

I think what Dusty means is that the scan is perhaps a pdf rather than a jpeg?? Ergo it is not permitted as a valid format…..but then I could absolutely wrong!! 

Edited By John Rudd on 30/01/2017 16:39:54

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John You are right it would not let me load into an album in fact I think it is HTML. PM sent.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

If it's pdf, I can very easily convert it to jpeg

… I don't wish to tread on your toes, John Rudd, it's just an offer.

MichaelG.

.

Ah … just seen Dusty's post 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/01/2017 16:51:23

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by John Rudd on 30/01/2017 16:39:02:

Nick,

I think what Dusty means is that the scan is perhaps a pdf rather than a jpeg??

.

Ahhhhhhh.

Nick

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Dusty – Fraid I cannot guide you on circuits etc as I am not a sparky wizard like Les and John. However, my WM250 has a history of electrical problems and each time it packed up it was because the speed control board had gone faulty. Presently on my third board.

I have mentioned on here before that WARCO advise that when using the lathe the speed control knob MUST be set to zero before starting AND stopping the lathe (same advise applies to my WARCO WM16 mill.) I have operated the lathe (and mill) under these conditions since fitting the last speed control board in Januarylast year and the lathe still works – phew! The only thing that bothers me is the ON button constantly needs to be pressed – up to three times – to get the motor started. Its something I can live with but it is annoying.

I hope you get your machine sorted soon and trust you will not have to replace the speed control board. My last one set me back £109.80 – that's a lot of whisky!!!

Rik

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Nick,Michael…..

I might be a wizz when it comes to leccy stuff ( As most of us, I have my linitations…  )

But I do accept my limitations when it comes to 'pooter stuff, so any help in this regard is very welcome and I'm sure Dusty joins me in saying this if it results in his lathe going again….

John

 

Edited By John Rudd on 30/01/2017 17:47:39

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

John,

… Probably easiest to forward Dusty's file direct to me.

MichaelG.

a P.M with my eMail address is on the way to you.

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

A workaround for converting anything (more or less) to jpeg is to take a screen shot of the PDF page/diagram/whatever by pressing Ctl and PrtScn simultaneously. Then open up the windows Paint program and hit Edit/paste. The screen shot will appear and can be cropped etc. and saved as a .jpg

HTH

rgds

Bill

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

@ Rik Shaw…

Pm sent….

John

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Cornish Jack on 30/01/2017 17:56:27:

A workaround for converting anything (more or less) to jpeg is to take a screen shot of the PDF page/diagram/whatever by pressing Ctl and PrtScn simultaneously. Then open up the windows Paint program and hit Edit/paste. The screen shot will appear and can be cropped etc. and saved as a .jpg

HTH

rgds

Bill

This is one of the things that's changed in Windows 10, at least on my machine. If ctrrl + prtscn doesn't work try Windows Key + Print Screen instead. Even better is the snipping tool, (search for 'snipping' ) – it allows you to save a snapshot as a jpg directly.

Dave

edit I do hate automatic smilies!

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 30/01/2017 18:34:47

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Hi Rik It's interesting regarding start stop procedures that you outlined. My machine is now some 8yrs old and I have never used the speed control at minimum for starting and stopping. I have just gone through the operators manual and surprise, surprise nothing about that. Like you I am not very good with that lektricity stuff, now if it is a mechanical problem that's different. When I retired the seminar that I went on, one of the speakers said about saving for a rainy day, and most people don't recognise the rainy day. I can see a rainy day looming and Warco may get an order.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

From the Armchair …

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Michael,

Indebted to you, thanks.

@Dusty,

Dusty with your trusty multimeter set to Ohms( resistance range), with say the Red meter lead connected to the N pin on your mains plug, connect the remaining Black lead to pin 14 on the nvr switch….you should have a reading if a few thousand ohms ( you may need to press the Green go button ), this should be the coils resistance…..

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Michael John,

Thank you gentlemen I will perform said test once I have done those things the boss requires of me.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

If as I suspect the nvr switch is faulty, if yours is KJD17B with 5 connections, then this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Start-Stop-NVR-Switch-workshop-machine-2HP-16A-Emergency-Stop-5Pin-KJD17GF-/152397185335?hash=item237b948137:g:-OQAAOSwEK9T98Co

Should fit nicely….

I measure 4.5 kilohms on a new nvr switch…..

Edited By John Rudd on 31/01/2017 09:42:53

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John, I have carried out the test and am a bit confused with what I found. Connected as you instructed I got a series of numbers flash up and then it returned to zero's where it remained. This is in both the neutral position and with the green button pressed. I did not get a steady reading other than the zero's.

Edited By Dusty on 31/01/2017 11:13:07

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

Can you confirm how many terminals there are on the nvr sw please….?

From the drawing, it shows 4 are marked as 13,14 and 23,24. These terminals may have blue and brown wires attached….the wire marked 10 is what colour? This is the free end of the relay coil and is connected usually to any interlocks…

Could you repeat the test, but connect the multimeter to terminals 14 and 10…… But this time do not depress the Green button…..

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Can you just confirm what range the multimeter is set to as I have a number of options for ohms ie. 20k 200k etc

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

I am working under great difficulty as non of the terminals are marked with a number. It does not help that I am having to work through the hole that the switch plate has vacated, I am unable to get to the back of the lathe due to its proximity to the wall so cannot access the control boards. As far as I can see the only wires going to the micro switch are red. Part of the problem is the markings are very faded and yes there are 5 terminals two on which are connected to the forward and reverse switch.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Dusty,

Set the meter to the 20k range…..

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

"I have never used the speed control at minimum for starting and stopping. I have just gone through the operators manual and surprise, surprise nothing about that."

Dusty – I'm not surprised at your puzzlement because as you remark, that advice is NOT in the manual. However if you look at the ringed text in the photo scanned from my WARCO WM-16 mill manual you wil see the start/stop caution. WARCO have verbally advised me that the same procedure should be applied when using the lathe.

I can only assume that the warning was an accidental omission from the lathe manual.

Rik

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

John,

I have repeated the test using terminals 10 and 14 well as far as I can ascertain they are the right terminals. I get no readings whatsoever. The wire from terminal 10 is blue and goes to terminal 10 on the for/rev switch the return from 9 goes to terminal 24. Wires from terminals 24 and 14 are black and those from 23 and 13 are red. I have taken the precaution of ordering the NVR switch. Where to now? I had been using 20k range anyway but I thought I better check

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi John,
On the schematic kindly posted by Michael I think there is a label missing on the NVR for the free end of the coil. I suspect that you thought that 14 was the free end of the coil. The free end of the coil is A1 and is a smaller spade connector than the other four.

Les.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

Les,

Yup, I can see that the free end of the coil isnt annotated on the drawing, but it does have wire 10 attached…ergo I asked Dusty to check for coil resistance between 10 and 14…. ( I think…?.?) which ought to be the internal ( cold end) connection back to Neutral….what is confusing is that there is a contact in the box where the F/R switch is….now is that an integral part of that switch or is it part of the interlocks?( no interlocks shown on the drawing?) If its part of the F/R switch, then that could be faulty, if it is then Dusty will have a job on his hands fitting a new one!…..

Dusty, can you check that you have continuity between wires 9&10 when the F/R switch is operated? That is zero ohmsso use the lowest Ohms range..(200?? ) on the meter….

Edited By John Rudd on 31/01/2017 15:34:42

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Thanks Les

Yes that's what I found. and that's what I used. I think the wiring and the diagram are approximations to one another If you know what you are doing that's O.K. but as you can see John is taking me through step by step and I still feel as if I am blindfolded.

[Author]

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