WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill – 001

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi all

To keep this thread going I have written a little description of checking the accuracy of my WM250V-F chuck under the thread titled .. Chuck accuracy 25/08/2013… as it fitted the context, & it also applies under this thread as it is on the Warco family… can't let this thread lose track for lack of coments..have tried to link to it but can't seem to do it… any assistance?

George

Edited By JasonB on 25/08/2013 16:22:14

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi George,

I have checked out your link.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 25/08/2013 16:42:53

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

JasonB

Thanks for linking it .. how did you do it?

G

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Thor

Yes, thanks.. same question as to Jason.. How?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

View the Chuck thread, copy (right click, then copy) the URL from the top left of the browser.

Or from the latest posts right click the chuck thread and select copy shortcut to get the url

Type your post here, highlight the text you want the link to be then click the icon with the globe & chain link, paste the url into the box in the window that comes up and bobs your uncle.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi George,

Open two tabs in your browser, both pointing to this forum. Open the Chuck Accuracy in one tab, this one in another. In the Chuck Accuracy tab you click in the address line with the mouse pointer and then press Ctrl A on the keyboard to mark all, and then press Ctrl C on the keyboard to copy this address. In the edit box mark a word with the mouse, then there is a globe with a chain above the editor, click that and it opens up a box which asks for the URL. Click in that with the mouse pointer and then Ctrl V. Click the Ok button.

Thor

Jason types faster than me.

Edited By Thor on 25/08/2013 16:57:45

Edited By Thor on 25/08/2013 17:08:31

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Thor on 25/08/2013 16:57:15:

Jason types faster than me.

Thats because he just uses the mouse, none of that jumping back and forth between mouse and keyboard to press Ctrl *.

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

I want to buy a rear mounted tool post for my WM250V-F lathe which I would like to use with a parting off tool. As far as I can see WARCO do not list one as an extra. Do you know where I can buy one?

Rik

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

JasonB/Thor… thanks for the tip.

Rick… I made mine from a Hemmingway kit as I couldn't find one to buy either (non available for this machine) but had to modify fixing from that described in kit plans & the blade angle left too much sticking out to meet centre height causing blade to flex (not rigid enough) & parted off pieces to have concave /convex sides so have used ordinary parting off holder inverted in 12 mm slot on other side of block … lot more rigidity… works a treat now. Will post pic of alternative holder set up… when I find it ! other pics in album 'Rear tool post', will do write up on process later but pics will give you good insight.

Cheers

George

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Rick

For your info… from Hemmingway kits, this is what I bought…

Rear Tool Post for Larger Lathes Ref: HK 1071

Price: £49.30 (Including VAT at 20%)

One of George Thomas' simplest and most elegant designs, the Rear Tool Post, with its indexing turret, has become a vital addition to all Myford lathes for the past 30 years. And now, Hemingway is pleased to announce a new version, based on the work of both G H Thomas and E Riley.

Suitable for lathes with up to 3 ½" between the cross slide and centre, the kit includes the main casting and all material to complete a substantial Rear Tool Post for your Boxford, South Bend, Atlas, Chester, Harrison, Myford 254, Colchester, Warco, Grizzly. Plus many more. The Rear Tool Post is designed to engage with either a single T slot or a pair of tapped holes towards the rear of your cross slide. The turret is designed to accept a parting blade and an additional inverted tool up to ½" square. Picture shows the tool post armed with an inverted carbide insert holder and HSS chamfering tool.

Cheers

George

[cliff leachParticipant @cliffleach79290]

Hi, I have a WM16 mill and a WM180 lathe. On the mill I wanted DROs for the X and Y Axis (it comes with a Quill – Z Axis DRO). I also wanted Y axis stops (it comes with X axis stops)

After a lot of thought and desinging I came up with a solution to this and I must admit that using DROs makes life much easier and improves precision. I used DROs with remote readouts from ARC and machined up the brackets from scrap stock and old parts from defunct computer pritners.

I am now working on an electrical actuator for the Z axis (main column) with up and down feed, not as part of a CNC project (that will come later) but just using a regular DC motor to move the column up and down since I find it hard to reach the top of the mill since I am a wheelchair user.

I am submitting the work as an article to the magazine, but if anyone out there wants details, then just Private mesage me.

Edited By JasonB on 27/08/2013 15:46:00

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Have not used my new WM 250V-F very much yet but yesterday after cleaning and lubricating the bed I wound the apron back and forth by hand to spread the oil and noticed that the internal mechanism was not as free as it had been.

After scratching my head a while I checked the sight glass on the apron but I could not see an oil level line. Either it was over full or……………

Removed filler plug and started to fill with oil.It took a fair bit of oil to get the level showing in the sight glass.

I can only assume the lathe was shipped without oil in the apron, would you believe it?. The headstock is OK and shows the correct level.

Rik

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Are you sure its not all leaked out into the tray

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Rik Shaw on 17/09/2013 10:51:59:

… would you believe it?.

Rik

.

In a word … Yes.

Thinks; it might be worth checking what is in there.

MichaelG.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Rick, I have the same problem; when I clean mine down I noticed a film of oil in the tray & closer inspection reveals that there is a weep of oil clinging to the bottom of the saddle, I have checked all fastenings for tightness & all ok, I came to the conclusion that the oil is coming from either the sight glass (Manual part # 30), but there again it would stop once the level reached the below the sight glass, or possibly the screw (part # 27) which I cannot see with the limited view I get between the apron /saddle & tray, nor feel any joint in that location, probably the manufacturer has covered the joint in the process of enamelling the saddle.>>

If you look in the manual there is also an item that is not identified (in mine)…Lathe Apron assembly page… in between parts 27/28/29/30, it looks to me like a cap, spring, & ball bearing on the diagram but not identified? so there is another possible route for oil to escape. Considering the general assembly of these machines it also wouldn't surprise me if the label screw holes have been drilled right through into the saddle & allowing oil to seep past the screws…….

Just been to check on mine & it is this unidentified screw where my leak is, it is a socket gubscrew (used an inspection mirror) but as to its purpose?, I can only surmise from the layout diagram it is the retaining pin assembly for the half nut operating cam shaft (part # 32). Having topped up the level earlier on this year,its still showing 3/4 level, & not wanting to dismantle the saddle at this point, its liveable so its a case of checking the level each week, so I suggest this is your first port of call to remedy

Just a few ideas to ponder.

Cheers

George

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Rik/all

Have been pottering in the garage … again, & double checked the saddle re oil leak (above post), & what I've deduced, by feel, is that…

1). Operating the half nut lever the unidentified item is the spring loaded detent assembly for the half nut cam… #32 (manual shows it as having a hole in the shaft but must be a dimple) … as can definitely feel spring & ball action…

2) The other part (#27) is actually the drain plug, identified as 'Screw'…

3) There is a leak from where the half nut lever comes out of the saddle & locates into the 'Handle knob'.. Part # 67.oil is weeping from there down the front of the saddle & hence running under the saddle ending up in the tray.

So I would consider the 3 primary leak points as:

1. Drain plug not being securely tightened/sealed
2. Spring detent assembly oil passing grub screw(sealing again)
3. Oil passing through half nut lever, saddle entry point (no ‘o’ ring / sealing method?).

Plus, as an outside point…

4. No oil put in saddle on assembly( your comment Rik)… I would consider this highly unlikely, even for Chinese slapdash assembly methods …… but?

 

You can see the spring detent grub screw in the top of the mirror & the drain plug at the bottom, another leak was, as mentioned, coming from the lever bottom position, top right of pic where the paint has been chipped.

 

So that’s my two ‘pennorth, hope it helps.

Cheers

George

Edited By mechman48 on 17/09/2013 16:14:44

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Rik/George,

My HBM 290 is not leaking oil from the apron (or gearbox), at least not yet. What kind of oil do you use to refill?

Regards

Thor

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Hello Thor – I bought 5 litres of Castrol EP-90 manual transmission fluid from a boot sale for a couple of quid and that is what this lathe gets – it might not be right but it lubricates better than foundry sand.

Rik

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Rik,

I have been thinking along the same line, an APGL 4 manual transmission oil. I can get it in small quantities (1l). The recommended Mobilgear seems only to be available in large quantities.

Thor

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Thor

From my previous post:

'Checked oil levels in gearbox & saddle; both were lower than what is recommended so refering back to 'Grizzly' equivalent machine manual..BF20L who suggest ISO 60 grade oil, checked on Google for SAE equiv' .. SAE 20, so bought a litre of Engine oil SAE 15 – 40 & topped both up. Will use for a couple of weeks then drain off & replace all with new SAE 15 – 40 as no idea what the manufacturers put in originally!

Other than that transmission/gear oil would suffice, typically from Halfords (usual discl&#39  IIRC EP70 – 90 (ref.Rik)

George

Edited By mechman48 on 18/09/2013 10:03:48

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

I have found that the boring of deep holes on the WM16 to be an uncomfortabe task particularly as I suffer from bad cramps in my fingers. A slow two handed controlled feed with that little grey fine feed knob is not an enjoyable task.

Decided today that I would make the job easier by knocking up a very basic prototype aid in the form of a larger hand wheel to fit over the millers knob.

Hub is MDF bored out for a nice gripping fit on the knob and the ally tube handles are a tight push fit in their holes with added superglue.

If this turned out OK – and it has – I had intended remaking it with an ally hub, a proper job, but as this works OK I'll wait until it falls apart (I have a feeling it won't.

Rik

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Rik,

nice handwheel, using the fine feed knob to move the quill down is not easy on my old fingers either. I usually use the coarse feed handles though.

Thor

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

On my X2, which has a smilar arrangement, I find that the length of the main capstan arms is so great, that I can adjust the head position to the limits of my DRO, however. it is very easy to overshoot.

I had planned to put a handle on the fine feed knob, but I might copy your design instead.

Neil

[Ian LParticipant @ianl48580]

Can I ask a question to all you guys with a WM-16 milling machine. Have any of you had to disassemble the machine to enable it to be moved and manhandled on to a bench/stand, and how practical is this?

Thanks.

Ian

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Ian,

when I got my milling machine – a slightly larger version than the WM16 – I removed the head from the column.The rest of the machine could then be moved using a sack trolley/truck. The head on my milling machine is around 30kg, so be careful. We were 2 when I hoisted my milling machine onto its stand. David White has a review of my milling machine, he also describes how he disassembled (and assembled) it. He removed both the table and the column, since I hoisted mine onto the stand I didn't do that. I would suggest you don't do the lifting alone, hoisting with a chain hoist or similar can be done alone, but two persons is better/safer.

Regards

Thor.

 

Edited By Thor on 23/09/2013 18:21:40

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