Warco 220 / MashstroyC210t Lathe thread cutting

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Warco 220 / MashstroyC210t Lathe thread cutting

Home Forums Workshop Tools and Tooling Warco 220 / MashstroyC210t Lathe thread cutting

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  • #72025
    frogsuk
    Participant
      @frogsuk
      I have a Warco as above which I have had very little time so far to use… So much so it has still got most if not all of its protective coatings on it and the change wheels have never been on. Built 1993 Machine No. 112
       
      I bought it as used and have owned it for about 8 months now and am getting a bit of free time I would like to get use to it as it seems a substantial machine compared to my Myford.
       
      My main question today is to do with the tread cutting change gears.
       
      In the manual it mentions Z1~Z6 gears
      I am trying to get the combination right for ~/1″ 11 which asks for Z1=32, Z2&Z3=60, Z4=44, Z5=50 & Z6=63.
      Now… I have all the gears but Z1 which is 32 teeth. The 32 toothed gear I have is an idler gear e.g. it has 32 teeth and a boss but no dogs to mesh with the other gears on the same shaft. I t all so has NO T32 on it. Is this Correct?
       
      Looking at the picture in the manual of the gear Z setup has got me a bit confused… Can anyone throw any light on which Z 1,2,3,4,5,6 goes with which shaft or even a itemised photo or picture showing which is which e.g. top middle or bottom.
       
      Thanks in advance of any help given
       
      P.S. Does anyone have a .PDF of the instruction manual please?
       
       
      I also have a Myford ML7 long bed (Ex University machine), Portass Lathe and a Emco MAXIMAT7 Mill (Ex University machine)…. etc.

      Edited By Michael Inglis on 18/07/2011 16:09:21

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      #16681
      frogsuk
      Participant
        @frogsuk

        change gears ???

        #72035
        Peter G. Shaw
        Participant
          @peterg-shaw75338
          Hi frogsuk,
           
          I can certainly help.
           
          My machine, by the way is No. 357 built 1994.
           
          Z1 gear is the long gear permanently mounted on the rear of the mandrel. It is always 32T, so you don’t need to fit one. The loose 32T that you do have is to enable lefthand screwcutting and is fitted in the slot in the rear bearing cover at about 10past on the clock.
           
          Z6 gear is the one that effectively sits on the end of the leadscrew down at the bottom. (It doesn’t actually, but for our purposes saying that it does is good enough.)
           
          Z5 meshes with Z6 and in your case is linked to Z4. So, the Z5/Z4 combination takes the place of the large disc on the end of the movable fork. Note that when you remove the large disk, you will NOT need the long T nut with the screwhead sticking out at one end, but note that this screwhead is towards the leadscrew for when you return to normal turning mode. Instead you will need a short T nut which you should have somewhere.
           
          Z2/Z3 combination fits in place of the triple pulley etc. The fact that both are shown as 60T is because the gear fits between the 44T/Z4 and the 32/Z1 gear. It will be necesary to use a spacer, which again you should have. Z2/Z3 fit in the slot at about 25 past, but you know that as you have just removed the triple pulley!
           
          Finally, there is an Allen screw behind Z6 on the moving fork. This screw requires slackening for turning, and tightening for screwcutting.
           
          You asked about a .pdf of the manual, yet you talk about looking at a picture in the manual. So why a .pdf? Anyway, I can supply a set of .jpg’s of the manual. I copied mine for someone else and kept a copy on my computer, so it’s no problem to transmit it as email attachments, however I will need your personal email address. Send it via the pM system if you wish.
           
          Anymore questions, please ask.
          Regards,
           
          Peter G. Shaw
           
          #72036
          frogsuk
          Participant
            @frogsuk
            BIG BIG THANKS!!!
             
            I would be very grateful of a copy you have for the exact reason you say… to keep a copy on my computer as I can always refer to it in the workshop rather than getting this original dirty.
             
            I will PM you my email address and again, thank you
            #72093
            frogsuk
            Participant
              @frogsuk
              Well Graham; thanks again for the manual, it was received here no problem.
               
              Your manual is far better than the one I have. I think mine must have been MK1 as it has so many mistakes in it and revisions factory glued in which still appear to be wrong, it also has a page in French; also it is on pink dot matrix background which makes it so hard to read but it does have a few more coloured pictures. The manual you sent me is just great.
               
              #72118
              frogsuk
              Participant
                @frogsuk

                Sorry I mean Peter NOT Graham. I don’t even know a Graham… Where did that come from??? (slight senior moment there, a bit of old timers disease)

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