Case hardening via the charcoal method is pretty simple to do if all you are looking for is a hard surface; easily doable in a small electric furnace in the amateur shop. Colour case hardening is a bit more difficult but using commercially available charcoal mixes you can get a very pleasing result.
The biggest difficulties (note the plural) lie in re-colour casing existing parts, especially guns components. First you need to know what the original colours looked like because they varied from maker to maker, and some of them used the molten cyanide process anyway, not charcoal. Then you need to know how to tweak the process to get that desired result, and it's a right fiddle.
Most gun actions are quite thin with variable sections that will move about when subjected to the stresses of re-casing, so that they sometimes won't reassemble properly, requiring a skilled gunsmith to pull them back straight. Thus they are annealed prior to treatment and held in jigs thereafter. And so it goes on …
The actual process is dead easy and new parts present little difficulty, but reworking precision gun parts is a bit of a minefield.
The "applique" method is also simple, if a bit of an acquired skill, but it's done at relatively low temperature that won't compromise the parts if done right. I've seen guns done this way where the metal parts weren't even taken off the gun; if you looked carefully you could see that the woodwork has been singed!
I have a wee electric oven on my Christmas list to replace the old one that died, and I'll be colour casing again.
Eug