Use a router for a mortice lock

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

[This is mainly aimed at the chippies out there!]

After researching fitting a 5 lever mortice lock, I've decided to hire a router and use a template accessory. I understand it's crucial to the function of the lock to get it right first time. I'll likely fit locks to other doors in the futre, so an investment too.

I can only seem to find mortice lock jigs costing ~£100 – can anyone recommend something cheaper?

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Two bits of 4×4 which you clamp either side of the door to make a larger reference plane. 1 piece of 3/8 ply with a hole in it to fit the guide bush on the router, or suitable for the whole size of the base of the router if no guide bush.
two pieces of wood to practice on.

[PlasmaParticipant @plasma]

I use a router to cut in my hinge plates when hanging doors, not sure I would use one for the lock plate but there is no need for a fancy guide as Bazyle says.

Just a good reference plane and lots of practice before you tackle the real deal.

Bear in mind my internal solid oak doors were mucho pesos and the missus was watching my every move lol

Regards Mick

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Souber mortice attachment for drill, it's what the pros use

Alternatively, mallet and chisel after boring out for the body of the lock

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

When using a router, its a bit like milling, you can go "conventional" or "climb". One way it "sucks" against the guide, the other way it ruins your job – Unless you have mastered its habits.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I use a router (laminate trimmer actually) for the hinges and Fore-end of the lock but just drill out the mortice and chop out the waste with a chisel. Depending on the backset of the lock and therefore its overall depth you need a long router bit to get the full depth cut and if you are not used to handling a 1/2" router it's easy to get a kick if you go at it to quickly.

If you do want to try a router than something like Bazyle suggests make it a lot easier than balancing the router on the edge of a door

[Frank GorseParticipant @frankgorse]

Not sure whether you’re talking about the mortice or just the shallow recess for the plate. As Jason says you’ll need to find a long bit and a decent router to do the mortice. Doing it by hand needs proper tools and if you had those you wouldn’t be asking the question. One piece of advice though, never “climb mill” with a router.

[Donald HillParticipant @donaldhill68830]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-S-5lHAQuM will show how a professional does it.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by Donald Hill on 31/05/2019 15:33:23:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-S-5lHAQuM will show how a professional does it.

That's a latch not a lock

Kit like that is fine for the chippie on site doing price work where the more similar doors he can hang in a day the better but for one offs I could have had most of it done by the time the jig has been set up. Still got to hang a lot of doors to get back the £1200 cost

You also need locks to suit router fitting to make them pay eg rounded ends to the fore end, ditto hinges with rounded corners.

[egaParticipant @ega]

Whatever method is adopted, it will be much easier done on the bench rather than with the door already hung.

Hiring the router and buying the jig rather than the other way round seems doubtful policy. If routing, aim to use an up cutting-bit.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Personally I would not use an upcut in this application for two reasons.

1. Doubt you will find one with flutes longer than 50 and short overall length so temptation is to have too much sticking out the collet to get to the bottom of the mortice. Use a 12mm door bit which has 63mm flute and an overlength shank.

2. If the door has a composite eg chipboard core and no decent lock block then if HSS an upcut won't last long, again use a TCT door bit.

Edited By JasonB on 31/05/2019 18:53:33

[Philip SewellParticipant @philipsewell33761]

My method is to use 2 fences and a 12mm router bit. in a 1/2" router, I plunge cut so as not to put side pressure on the bit. I go onto a 1/4" router freehand for the face plate (not sure of the technical name). Having marked out the position of the plate with knife and marking gauge I freehand as close as I can to the lines and finish off with a sharp chisel. Using 2 fences is a great way of controlling the router and all but eliminates a mistake. If I make door linings I'll make the lining fit the door so I'm not messing about with heavy doors too much on site. I made 12 solid ash doors and linings for a mates farm house recently, I'd quite happily never make and fit another house door in my life!

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

To achieve a period look I routed the apertures for mortise locks (Key centre 3" from edge) and latches (handle centre 6" from edge) for 7 internal doors with a router.
I couldn't find cutters long enough for my 1/2" bit router so I bought one 1/2" shank bit and 2 1/4" bits, turned extension bars on the lathe and bonded the 1/4" shank cutters into the extensions with a locking spot weld for good measure.
The company fitting the doors had suggested using roller latches as their fitters didn't have the means to fit latches this deep in the engineered timber doors which they supplied so I did the job while they hung the doors. 

Cost me the cutters and some lathe time 😀 

 

Edited By Nick Hulme on 31/05/2019 20:05:17

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

I would as already suggested put a board either side to give a firmer base to work from. Again as already mentioned depth of cut can be a problem and the size of router needed to run a bit that is capable of routing to any depth.

Drilling out the bulk of waste will help and ease some of the load on the bit. A double fence is a good way to prevent any accidents of cutting away any wood that is not needed to be cut. Don't try to take too much of a cut the same as you would if milling,

If drilled out the amount that needs to be removed is just as easily done with a sharp chisel

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

Even with clamped wood support plates the door fitters said drilling can split the surface veneer of engineered timber doors, regardless of whether spiral or spade wood bits are used, I suggested all this as I have that equipment too

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