Type of cast iron and weldability on Swiss machines

[Michael Gilligan]

On Michael Gilligan Said:

Careful choice of the pin locations and angles could make for a very effective fixing.

It may be over the top, but you could arrange the pins so the second one intersects the first one by maybe 1/3 of its diameter, thus locking the first one into place. It would be slow to assemble as you’d have to do one pin at a time and let the loctite cure before doing the second.

I am always impressed by the joints used in Japanese woodworking – no more nails has a different emphasis there.

As we are on a wood theme, you could make a mock up of the steel fabrication from timber and see how it would look, what access it would allow (or restrict) for drilling the pins and what features it might need to assure left-right alignment of the two parts.

Square up the male dovetails on the cast part and make the ledge on the fabrication into a trough (two short vertical sides and a long horizontal side) then that pins down the last degree of freedom. It would only need two G-clamps to hold it together until the epoxy sets.

[CirclipParticipant @circlip]

How about a REALLY stupid idea and fabricate the required interface?

Regards Ian (Nother one)

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Looking at photos of other aciera heads it seems there is a circular tee slot on the other side of the component. However if you’re changing to a round overarm you don’t need to angle the head wrt the arm, so why not dump the cast bit and make a thick flange to go on the end of the arm with spigot and however many bolt holes

I might have completely misunderstood of course, not unknown

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

Duncan thanks but the swivel action in the circular T slot is silky smooth because the slot and the profiled nuts are beautifully machined – it is one of the joys of this slotting head and something I won’t give up.

 

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

Ian I have thought of grinding wings that match reasonably closely to the inside of the 2 casting cavities and weld those to the underside of the plate, and then fix the plate by means of screwing through the outer casting wall into these wings. The cavities of course have sloping and uneven walls and floor so difficult to get a good fit, even if the wings did not go all the way down to the bottom of the cavity. I have no idea if a plasticene impression of each cavity could be scanned and transferred by CNC to a steel form.

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

DC thanks, I do like your idea of pins and JB Weld. Drilling through the lower (in the photo) wall of the casting is not really feasible because of the lack of access for a drill chuck, albeit I could drill at an angle other than perpendicular to the wall. I could drill through the upper (in the photo) wall right on and through the lower wall, using a single long bolt/pin. It seems to me a combination of welding profiled pieces to the underside of the plate and screwing into those from the side walls, and filling the cavity with JB Weld and further securing with pins/screws could be good

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