turning oilon platic rod

[lug lordParticipant @luglord]

i was taking a light cut on some oilon plastic rod when all off a sudden the tool seemed to grab and slice right through as the wheel span and the tool jammed into the chuck .

Is it commen practice to lock the saddle and use the gears to take the cuts so this cant happen never happened before.

the plastic did have a label stuck to it i thought it would not matter and it would just come off as i cut into it.

luckily i hit the clutch fast so no damage

[lug lordParticipant @luglord]

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

In the same way that drills can grab and pull into brass something similar can happen when turning soft materials with inappropriate tools.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Use a very sharp took, HSS if you grind or a polished insert. Cutting feed to be small, do not allow the swarf to build up.

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Heat builds up quite quickly at the cutting edge with plastics as they don't conduct heat away as happens with metals. Once the melting point of the plastic is reached the cutting action changes dramatically. Light cuts can probably cause this as less heat is carried away in the swarf. Like parting off you may find it better to feed the tool in faster.

Martin C

[FLguyParticipant @flguy]

Sharp HSS with ever so slit a radii equals nice finish and lessens fine swarf wrapping around part.

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

Posted by lug lord on 31/01/2018 21:02:31:

i was taking a light cut on some oilon plastic rod when all off a sudden the tool seemed to grab and slice right through as the wheel span and the tool jammed into the chuck .

Is it commen practice to lock the saddle and use the gears to take the cuts so this cant happen never happened before.

the plastic did have a label stuck to it i thought it would not matter and it would just come off as i cut into it.

luckily i hit the clutch fast so no damage

Yes this will happen when turning soft materials with large loads or large cuts and highish feed rates. It just takes off at the helix rate of the ground tool. So when grinding the tool, to get the top rake, use a dremel or what ever and create a mini chip breaker that emulates what you see on commercial finishing carbide inserts. It can still take off, so small cuts that you can control is a good way. Not many manual lathes have the feed wheel like a Myford so finding a way to manually feed at some point of the turning process is essential. Your issue occured because you had too big of a cut and too high of an initial feed rate. Like mentioned above, brass will do this to a regular drill bit. To stop the brass from biting, most will put a small flat on the cutting edge. Another way is to just drill at a slow feed rate like at about 2 thou per rev or so. If you try and go at 6 thou per rev it will want to bite. Sometimes low feed rates is your friend.

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