turner walker pillar drill

[Peter Wellington 2Participant @peterwellington2]

morning all swarf makers

I have a turner walker bench drill as anyone have slow speed pulley dimensions as it has original 240 motor just far to fast even faster than (Chinese)

[Peter Wellington 2Participant @peterwellington2]

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Perhaps it was intended for woodwork use.

Came across that once before,speeds much too fast for metalwork.

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Hi there, Peter,

If your pillar drill has a 2850-ish RPM motor (i.e. 2-pole), you could look for a 1425-ish RPM motor (i.e. 4-pole) with the same mounting interface (and spindle diameter). That would halve your basic set of speeds.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Nooging round t'net it appears that Walker-Turner drills and drill heads have always been very fast running in the basic form. One brochure quotes 600 to 5,000 rpm for the 1940's – 50's four speed head using the standard 4 pole 1750 rpm (in USA) motor. Maybe around 510 to 4,100 for a straight swap to UK 1440 rpm motor. Even the 6 pole option doesn't make a vast difference in real world terms.

There was a low speed pulley option to give more metalwork friendly speeds. Basically the motor was inverted and a speed reduction belt drive arranged to an auxiliary drive shaft hung off the side of the drill. The multi-groove step pulley being moved to the top of the drive shaft to drive the drill spindle in the usual manner.

An old style spin drier spindle and housing would be a quick way of making an auxiliary shaft. Have used them for similar duties on a few occasions, re-purposing being easier than making a nice job of a ball bearing spindle, but the OEM mounting arrangements never seemed to suit the job. Terribly short sighted of the spin drier makers not to consider (my) repurposing needs! I usually resorted to a pair of U bolt style exhaust pipe clamps (Benelli Clamps?) after sawing off the original brackets. I imagine something like 3 or 4 to 1 reduction would be reasonable.

Coming up with a good solution to set basic belt tension with easy release to change speeds on the step pulley may require some creativity. All the ones I did were either fixed countershafts or two speed with slack belts and sprung loaded jockey pulley clutch so nowt to copy. Assuming a single fixed speed reduction drive an H shape mount with the motor one end, the auxiliary shaft at the other and a pivot in the middle would probably work pretty well. Needs a husky spring to generate belt tension. Trampoline or motorcycle centre stand spring perhaps with an over centre lever or cam to release tension for belt changes. Tension springs are inelegant but much easier to engineer in than compression ones.

Clive.

 

Edited By Clive Foster on 02/09/2017 22:43:48

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

On overnight reflection I think that if you do decide to go the auxiliary shaft route it would be sensible to make it a two speed system with a 1:1 drive as well as the speed reduction one. That way you could switch back to wood woking speeds when needed. Simple sliding motor in slotted mounts would do for belt tension adjustment for this sort of function change-over. If you do use slotted mounts arrange thins so only one spanner is needed. If you sit the motor on a flat plate bars underneath spanning two motor flange mount holes tapped for suitable bolts work well. If you don't have thick enough material to tap holes then weld a pair of nuts on to a thinner cross bar. Something like 1/8", 10 gauge or 3 mm thick has always been fine for me. Which is good 'cos there is almost invariably some lying around the workshop.

Easiest to have a high speed and low speed belt rather than faff about trying to figure out pulley sizes to use one size of belt at nominally the same centre distances. That's what I did first time through with that sort of thing. Whether this was by intent or of necessity due to getting belt pulley diameter sums for a single belt on both speeds wrong has disappeared into the mists over the intervening 25 or 30 odd years.

Changeover is faster if you put the motor on a pivoted plate with a suitably hefty spring to provide tension and some sort of stud and nut arrangement to adjust things. A Bristol handle would be the fancy way but a big wing nut did for me in the past. Used a motorcycle valve spring for the tensioning, ex BSA A65 I think. For once a compression spring is the easiest to engineer in. Ordinary hinges or metal on metal pivots tend to rattle unless nicely made. That particular job may well have been the first appearance of my shake free "thick rubber tube in a bit of pipe with welded on ears" pivot system which has given good service in a variety of other situations.

Clive.

PS If you are up to making them this would be a good application for poly-vee pulleys.  Ordinary single Vee pulleys tend to get a bit large unless the reduction drive pulley on the motor is rather smaller than ideal.

Edited By Clive Foster on 03/09/2017 11:33:57

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

I like Walker Turner stuff ,i have a nice original driverline wood bandsaw.

This might help but it doesnt state what is the slow speed pulley for the drill press.

The speeds for the 60hz slow speed pulley running at 1740 rpm are 480, 940 ,1300 and 2900 on the driverline drill press. Proportionately slower for the UK  50 hz motor i would assume. My motor on the bandsaw is 1440 rpm.

theres a few on US ebay ,if you can find the serial number if there is one on the pulley ,you could compare it to the chart below.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwalker+turner+slow+speed+pulley.TRS0&_nkw=walker+turner+slow+speed+pulley&_sacat=0

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 11:49:29

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 11:50:08

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 11:55:09

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

From looking about it may possibly be the no pv 62 ,i think pv58 is the standard speed pulley.

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

Without knowing the model of the drill or how the pulley attaches ,this is what they sold which included the spigot attachmentment to mount to the motor bracket. Some models already have this way of attachment.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Mark

Interesting picture of the official slo-speed attachment. Looks an incredibly cumbersome way of doing things with a very strange set of speeds. Probably a bit of belt threading and un-threading involved to get them all.

Reference I found, on Practical Machinist site with no dissenting views from the usual folk who would know, said that the slow speed set-up was to invert the motor and use an auxiliary shaft with a single speed reduction set-up. No pictures that I could find unfortunately. Wonder if there was another version or perhaps an aftermarket kit.

Clive.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Google search throws up several pictures of the official one. Slightly different take on it shown here :- **LINK** . Very shade tree home brew but looks a better way around things if a more linear speed range is needed. Especially if you put a sensible two speed pair on top.

Clive.

[Adrian R2Participant @adrianr2]

I've been pondering the same for my recently acquired Buffalo. There's a nice idea here for a planetary gear pulley:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=21309

 

Edited By Adrian Rose on 03/09/2017 15:43:30

[mark smith 20Participant @marksmith20]

As far as i know if your drill has the right motor mount its just a matter of replacing the original standard speed pulley on this contraption with this pulley but im not certain as i dont have the drill press and the original poster hasnt stated what model and year his drill is. I think the belt length has to change as well.

Edited By mark smith 20 on 03/09/2017 16:37:31

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