Trident vertical milling machine restoration

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

NMTB taper, actually, presumably NMTB30. However, BT30, INT30 etc fit too. The parallel shank part on the NMTB is simply there to accommodate the drawbar thread, whereas the others expect a pull stud. The 30 taper is less common place than the 40 and 50 tapers.

NMTB is less readily available than the others although you can find a few on ebay stores and a few in UK online tool shops if you look around. You can use the BT30 etc versions but would need a different drawbar length (slightly longer) – or possibly one with different spacer washers.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Muzzer on 13/06/2016 19:41:54:

NMTB taper, actually …

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I stand corrected

MichaelG.

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I think thr confusion is fairly widespread

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 13/06/2016 20:28:31

[Mark Prickett 2Participant @markprickett2]

so ive been stripping the main shaft that connects to the head …..

came apart in about 10 seconds

but oh my did it take a long time to put it back together correctly ….

you are looking at about 2 hours here. one of those jobs that you think will take 5 mins but takes ages!

skf bearings came out so skf went back in !

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

I think thr confusion is fairly widespread

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 13/06/2016 20:28:31

Indeed! I think that the ones at the top of that page are properly called "ISO" or "DIN(2080)" but the ones at the bottom are surely NMBT. It seems that NMTB are also called "INT(ernational)". I suspect it's a bit like indexable inserts – to some extent the manufacturers have their own interpretation of the standards.

The upshot is that when looking for tooling on auction or other websites, you really have to try all of the various names and see what comes up. Bottom line is to see a picture of what is for sale – you can call it what you will at that point. I now have a mixture of mainly NMTB30 and BT30 tooling but the BT30 is more convenient for my homebrew collet / pullstud system as it doesn't require any machining to be done for the pullstuds to fit.

Murray

[Mark Prickett 2Participant @markprickett2]

finished the vice off , seller said it opens to 4", that was only because of all the swarf in it , now it opens to 6.5"

and mounted the gearbox on the bed , everything is still upside down at this point obviously

[VicParticipant @vic]

Looking good!

[Mark Prickett 2Participant @markprickett2]

thanks Vic!

so this is the rest of the machine as it stands at the moment

not sure what to tackle next !

Im thinking of having this sandblasted ,it would be much easier, dont think i can face chiseling off all that paint !

was planning on leaving the internal workings well alone , but the state of them , its really filthy in there , plus i could change all the bearings on the end of the shafts…..

you can just about see all those end caps on the back of the machine , i assume you could draw the shafts through them , no idea how though as everything so far has been make it up as i go along!

i have no manual to speak of.

[Mark Prickett 2Participant @markprickett2]

After lots of t , lots of looking , and some head scratching i came up with a plan.

Slide hammer the disks out …

Smack the end of the shaft with a big brass drift and it started to move !

Your never sure if your doing the right thing but as you can see its really filthy in there , think i will have to remove all the shafts and clean it out before i can repaint the inside and renew all the bearings etc …..

[Mark Prickett 2Participant @markprickett2]

these are all the caps that cover the end of the bearings that go into the casting, 4 cleaned up well but the one on the far right looked like it had been beaten on with a hammer, (sorry no before pics)



problem is you cant really take much off the face of them as they are tapered , so the more you take off the face the looser they get .

so i took a fine file to it and got most of the rash out , and silver soldered the rest, some were very deep , you can just about see them

, then smoothed it off on a stone , came up well!

for some reason it had an allen key grub screw in it , where as the rest have screw driver flat grub screws, so i made one out of some 5/16 bsw threaded rod and cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver blade. now they all match!

here are some other parts ive taken off in the last day or so

the casting on the right is the holder for the driveshaft that moves the bed

the driveshaft is below it

the other caps on the end cover the other ends of the bearing mainshafts.



top left is the clutch, took this off last night …. slightly worried by the massive bearings that are underneth it !

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