Difficult to see, but that’s not a left-hand thread, is it?
Rob
I tried both ways.
I forgot one detail that might be important. In the video is not visible but there is a small play betwen the round slotted nut and the arbor. This does’t make sense! Could be another part inside the arbor?
Yes, it was a grub screw … I didn’t saw it because there was too much dirt. It is the second time on this machine when I have problems because I don’t properly remove the dirt.
I was able to remove the back cover together with all gears. I made another discovery, there is a small piston there. You can see it in the video. It is pumping cooling fluid for the blade. I’m not sure where that liquid will go. Unless there was some missing part it will spill on the floor.
Now I’m stuck with another puzzle. Hopefully the last one. There is this box that has some gears inside to drive the bottom wheel. I can’t pull it out because of that arbor on the right. This time there is no grub screw. Also I can’t pull out first the left side of the box. Because it slides on some kind of guides, like a drawer. No idea so far …
What do you think that nut, in the final view is for? I expect removal will allow removal of the shaft, but it may possibly require access from below – can’t tell from here.
I was assembled, so must be able to be dissembled in the opposite way.
What do you think that nut, in the final view is for? I expect removal will allow removal of the shaft, but it may possibly require access from below – can’t tell from here.
I was assembled, so must be able to be dissembled in the opposite way.
What do you think that nut, in the final view is for? I expect removal will allow removal of the shaft, but it may possibly require access from below – can’t tell from here.
I was assembled, so must be able to be dissembled in the opposite way.
What nut are you reffering to?
Maybe:
Undone with a pin spanner:
Easy enough to make at home, except mild-steel is too soft to undo a stuck nut. Penetrating Oil or strong heat may be needed.
That is a plastic window to check the oil level I think. I can try to remove it, maybe I will get a clue from inside. There is a tube that goes to that window (on the left). This is a picture from bellow. That screw is to evacuate the oil.
I tried to pull out that small gear. Behind it there are three screws. Maybe if I remove them I’ll have a better look into the box. But there are only 2mm of space between the gear and the wall. Not enough to use the bearing extractor. I tried with a screwdriver but there is it not enough force.
I made a small progress. I removed the two alignment pins of the box. They restricted the box to moved only front/back. Without the pins I was able to turn it like this. So now I can almost remove it. But the shaft is still too long. So I’m stuck again. And I don’t have the feeling that drilling those two pins was included in the disassembly instruction manual 🙂
What could be the purpose of that blind hole on the shaft on the right side of the picture?
I still can’t figure out how to remove this box. Two friends visited me and also have no idea. One of them is fixing car engines. So no I’m not feeling so bad about this 🙂
Still guessing. How about removing the gear/cog at the left side? It looks like it is bolted on (likely with dowels, too?).
Today I removed the left gear. It had a dowel and 3 screws. The screws were jammed. I bought a serious screwdriver with hardened blade and I rotate it with an adjustable wrench.
After this I had access to three more screws that were holding the bearing. Some kind of pillow block. Next I hit the right end of the shaft with the hammer. And I saw that is was sliding to the left. Good news! In the and I was able to remove the box. I can’t believe that this is the right way to do it. It looks like a poor design. Here is the content of the box:
The large gear on the left is made of bronze. Cool stuff! There are also some interesting details. Here it was a bearing:
What could be the reason to have that insert that is blocked by those two set screws? It was a repair? The original diameter was damaged? Still there is an opening on the bottom that seems to be part of the original design.
Next I wanted to remove the bearings. They feel like there is sand inside. So I guess they are worn out. Again I had no clue how to remove them. But then I had a look at the hole at the end of the shaft. There was a screw to lock the handwheel. But the hole was suspiciously deep (~120mm). Also that blind hole that you can see on the vise had a cylindrical bottom. That suggested that there was an separate shaft inside. I started to hit that black screwdriver with the hammer without any shame. I destroyed the screwdriver but I had only mild steel bars that could fit there. I had to hit it so hard that the 150kg workbench was moving. Very strange way of assembling things. And I didn’t understood the purpose of that blind hole. Other than giving a disassembling clue.
After more hammering and some fun with the bearing extractor I removed the bearings. Here is an “exploded” view.
Inside the second part from the top there is also a bearing that I couldn’t remove it yet. It is a type that works only for axial loads. So finally after a week of struggle I got some dopamine!
If you ask me this box is overengineered. In the end all it does is to change the shaft direction with 90 degrees.
There are a few options for the broken gear. The first one is the cheapest. I can use it as it is 🙂
The second gear has half the thickness of this one. So there is enough good portion of gear left. Is just a matter of aligning them properly. The only problem I see is how to increase the inner diameter to match the new motor shaft. I don’t know if holding that broken gear in the chuck will result in good concentricity.
The other option is to make new metal one. I found a workshop who can duplicate it for 60€. This is reasonable. And another workshop can do also heat treatment for the gear for double the amount. But I suppose this is not necessary since the original part is not even made from steel. The advantage of a new gear is that it will already have the proper inner diameter.
During the last days I made some cosmetic progress. There is something bad in that light gray primer. I had to use a respirator with cartridge for organic vapor, even if I was outdoor. But except this it is a very good primer. Something with zinc that is suppose to protect even against saline mist. What I don’t like so much is that blue paint. It is a Hammerite style. But I can’t see the hammered finish.
I also started to dismantle the most juicy part of the machine. Here is where most of the gears are. I think in total this band saw has more then 20 ball bearings!
And since he always tries to imitate what I do, I let my son remove all the screws he found. Adult toys are much more interesting than his stuff
There are a few options for the broken gear. The first one is the cheapest. I can use it as it is 🙂
The second gear has half the thickness of this one. So there is enough good portion of gear left. Is just a matter of aligning them properly. The only problem I see is how to increase the inner diameter to match the new motor shaft. I don’t know if holding that broken gear in the chuck will result in good concentricity.
The other option is to make new metal one. I found a workshop who can duplicate it for 60€. This is reasonable. And another workshop can do also heat treatment for the gear for double the amount. But I suppose this is not necessary since the original part is not even made from steel. The advantage of a new gear is that it will already have the proper inner diameter.
Get them to make a new one from cross-laminated fibre sheet (Not roundstock) – a replica of the original.