The Workshop Progress Thread (2017)

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Brian Hutchings on 05/02/2017 15:23:30:

Looks very nice Jason. What's the reason for the blue colouring on the picture?

Brian

I see that a lot if you take a picture of a grey/silver/metallic object on a pale woodgrain background. It seems to fool the auto colour balance into thinking fluorescent light is from a traditional light bulb. A really hefty dose of colour balance from blue to yellow can fix it.

Funnily enough i was sent a picture of a lathe a few days ago that had gone the other day, the whole picture was yellow and it as lot harder to fix but I got a good balance in the end.

It's amazing how you can fix pictures with a cast! Here's one I fixed that's on Wikipedia (someone else's pic of one of my heroes I even used to have a jumper like that):

Before:

After:

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

It would not be so bad if it were consistant, compare the photo at the top of the page with the latest ones, all taken with the same lighting in the same shed but the ones at the top are fine

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/02/2017 18:16:23:

Posted by Brian Hutchings on 05/02/2017 15:23:30:

Looks very nice Jason. What's the reason for the blue colouring on the picture?

Brian

I see that a lot if you take a picture of a grey/silver/metallic object on a pale woodgrain background. It seems to fool the auto colour balance into thinking fluorescent light is from a traditional light bulb. A really hefty dose of colour balance from blue to yellow can fix it.

…

Dang blast it! I thought Jason had a tasty bluing effect in his repertoire and wanted to ask how he did it. Really good work – even if the colour is down to a confused camera.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Well there could be one other reason for the dodgy colour of teh photos as the air in the workshop was a bit blue today

[Phil PParticipant @philp]

Ouch !!

I have been pondering whether to buy one of those grooving tools for a while now.

You have just made up my mind for me.

Phil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Phil, thats a 10mm shank one so if you could fit a 12 or 16mm holder in on your lathe that would have a bit more meat under the insert.

I like it a lot, cuts well and the 2mm dia end inserts are nice for getting a small internal radius as can be seen on the conrod and the crosshead where the round joins the rectangle.

Think I may not have had enoug material in te collet. It happened about half way through parting off the piston from 1" bar and ther was only about 10mm length in the 5C collet.

[Anonymous]

Posted by JasonB on 05/02/2017 18:38:30:

Well there could be one other reason for the dodgy colour of teh photos as the air in the workshop was a bit blue today

Good grief, that's a bummer and a half. If it had happened to me I'd be on the third beer by now.

Andrew

Edited By Andrew Johnston on 05/02/2017 20:53:54

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

That's an >ouch<

Neil

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/02/2017 18:16:23:

 

 

 

 

Posted by Brian Hutchings on 05/02/2017

It's amazing how you can fix pictures with a cast! Here's one I fixed that's on Wikipedia (someone else's pic of one of my heroes I even used to have a jumper like that):

Before:

After:

Looks like Dave Brock to me, if it is I saw the current version Nov. 2015 in Oxford.

Mike

Just checked Wikipedia and I see I am right.

Edited By Mike Poole on 05/02/2017 21:58:45

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

A while back I posted on this thread on making some Tich nameplates – here's the finished articles, thanks to John Lintorn for letting me post this picture.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Mike Poole on 05/02/2017 21:51:28:

Looks like Dave Brock to me, if it is I saw the current version Nov. 2015 in Oxford.

Chuffed to sneak Hawkwind into the Workshop Progress Thread. I haven't seen them for about 25 years but I do like 'The Machine Stops'. I'd better shut up now!

Neil

[Martin CottrellParticipant @martincottrell21329]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 09/02/2017 18:44:06:

Posted by Mike Poole on 05/02/2017 21:51:28:

Looks like Dave Brock to me, if it is I saw the current version Nov. 2015 in Oxford.

Chuffed to sneak Hawkwind into the Workshop Progress Thread. I haven't seen them for about 25 years but I do like 'The Machine Stops'. I'd better shut up now!

Neil

'Silver Machine' is one of my favourites & always takes me back to my mis-spent youth!

Martin.

[ChrisHParticipant @chrish]

Jason – Mr Sieg's gear cutters – what supplier/s stocks these?

Chris

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

From China via e-bay They are no connection with Sieg.

[ChrisHParticipant @chrish]

I did wonder if it might be e-bay – many thanks for that Jason

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I am getting a bit fed up of having to put a kink in the airhose to alter the speed of my engines when run on air particularly when trying to hold a video camera in the other hand. So today the postie dropped off a couple of jiffy bags of push fit pneumatic fittings and some hose.

I sawed a 3/4" piece off a bit of 3×1 ali, flycut it down to size then poped it in the 4-jaw to drill a 10mm hole 140mm deep then opened up the hole and tapped 1/4BSP. Back onto the mill and drilled M5, M6 and 1/4BSP for the flow adjusters and jobs done.

A quick test of the Jowit and they are a real improvement, the adjusting screws have a fine metric thread and the "needle" anout a 4 degree included angle which makes for a very fine adjustment, takes 4-5 full turns to go from off to full flow so very easy to tweak the speed of the engine.

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Jason, where did you get your flow adjusters from, I've seen them on ebay but all from china, did you get yours in the UK ?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

E-bay but UK companies Wrekin Pneumatics and Hosemaster

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As most of my existing adaptors are threaded 3/8" x 32 to suit an airbrush hose I had to make up some new ones to suit the 1/8" BSP push fit connectors before I could test the manifold on a few engines. Quite happy with the result as it is easy to tune each engine's speed and there is no noticable drop in speed of one engine as the others are opened up.

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

My 1858 Burrell Boydell engine is coming along. Fitted the chimney base, chimney and part of the boiler levelling system this week.

The Acme threaded rod and nuts arrived from the US of A so am battling with worms and wheels. I have ordered the appropriate booklet by Ivan Law in the hope that it makes more sense than the rather old and technical books that I have.

Brian

Edited By Brian Hutchings on 18/02/2017 13:19:52

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Made good progress removing the bearings from the X and Y axes of the CNC machine. The X axis bearings were moaning louder than a Daily Mail reader on the Jeremy Vine program and sure enough the bearing surface was visibly shot. The Y axis bearings didn't sound too bad but it seemed like a good time to check them. As it would be otherwise exposed, the Y axis ballscrew has those conical spring covers to keep swarf and coolant off it. I knew it would be easier to get them off than to get them back on but obviously that didn't hold me back. So now I have the challenge of getting the thing back on.

Sounds easy enough but the large end has to fit into a cylindrical hole that is smaller than the spring wants to be and it is a spring ie wants to be longer than the ballscrew. So it's going to involve coiling it up from the fat end and trying to stop it jumping out as I go. Just to make matters worse, it's as greasy as a very greasy thing and could potentially be quite sharp (=gloves). Being quite sizable, there will be a fair amount of potential energy bound up in it when finally confined.

Does anybody have experience of doing this? I'm sure we all have ideas how we might do it but hard earned (bitten?) experience would be helpful at this stage. I don't see any instructions on the few websites that sell them but I may have missed something.

In the absense of any btter suggestion, I'm visualising a broomstick and possibly some cable ties to progressively confine it as I gradually cram the genie back in the bottle. Possibly a piece of plastic pipe the right size if I'm lucky. Finally I would feed it onto the ballscrew and release the ties once the bearings are back on. I'm sure it will still be somewhat fraught….

Murray

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Murray, it's a cop-out but cncyourmyford uses Dyson Van moses to cover the leadscre and keep the swarf out – maybe just replace it?

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Brian Hutchings on 18/02/2017 13:19:10:

My 1858 Burrell Boydell engine is coming along. …

.

That's looking lovely, Brian

MichaelG.

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/02/2017 14:17:22:

Posted by Brian Hutchings on 18/02/2017 13:19:10:

My 1858 Burrell Boydell engine is coming along. …

.

That's looking lovely, Brian

MichaelG.

Many thanks Michael.

Brian

[HOWARDTParticipant @howardt]

Telescopic spring leadscrew guards come wired fully closed. Put it on the lead screw and assemble completely then release the wire and fit the ends into or over there location.

so your first job is to slide it over something, a broom handle and collapse it to wire it up, plastic cable ties may be risky on the sharp edges.

[Author]

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