The Workshop Progress Thread (2016)

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Bazyle,

Just dropped into a bucket of water. I think the item is small enough and thin enough that there is probably no significant thermal gradient across it. I've made a few cutters now and never had a distortion problem.

I put this video up a year a two ago – shows the Eureka in action:**LINK**

Rod

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Posted by Graeme W on 01/02/2016 17:55:34:

Posted by John Stevenson on 01/02/2016 14:11:05:

I have a Eureka relieving attachment but it was scaled up to do full size 1" bore cutters.

John, Did you scale up every part of the tool? I am thinking of building one to do 1" bore cutters.

.

 

Think so ?

I do remember ordering in a load of 1/2" thick gauge plate and thinking "Glad I'm not paying for this "

 

However a quick look at the original drawings in the Gear and Gear cutting book shows the ratchet plate at 5/16" thick steel so I may have fudged some of the thickness's to keep at 1/2" through the build.

 

I'll see if I can find it and get some pictures and sizes, not seen it for many years but I do still have it.

 

[Edit] no 5/15" on my ruler.

Edited By John Stevenson on 01/02/2016 21:11:45

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

I've been a busy little bee – well, actually, I made the gear cutter yesterday. Today, the need to cut a slice off a 2 1/2" round prompted me to undertake Neil's mods to the bandsaw. You can really get away with quite a lot:

This is for the extended movable jaw – I had to lean on the end to start with. Even with the mods, holding a round stub was still not secure enough for cutting – the jaws tend to lift and skew, pushing the job up. So, a further mod was to add two M6 studs to the jaws to provide some down pressure.

It's a bit crude but the technique works.

Rod

[Peter KroghParticipant @peterkrogh76576]

Thanks again guys! I just ordered Laws book from Amazon. This business of relieving cutters has been driving me mad! I knew there was an easy (!) way to do it. I see building one of these in the near future, like this year. I'm tired of messing it up by hand.

Pete

[FatgadgiParticipant @fatgadgi]

Here's the grand plan to shield the CNC Height gauge from coolant drips.

Two parts – an upturned Delrin Bucket and a shroud part, probably aluminium, that is screwed to the top.

Section view ……..

Will post when complete with either good or bad news, but I'm hopeful that it'll do the trick with no modifications to the original design.

Thanks all for the ideas – Will

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Bandsaw update: Having proven the concept, I've made a better job of the clamp. The studs are 6mm and the slots in the bar were made with a 1/4" slot drill:

Cheers,

Rod

[jim’Participant @jim11037]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 02/02/2016 19:10:37:

Bandsaw update: Having proven the concept, I've made a better job of the clamp. The studs are 6mm and the slots in the bar were made with a 1/4" slot drill:

Cheers,

Rod

excellent.

one more for my todo list!

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

A new challenge for me today – slotting a key way in a blind hole. It's for a 1/8" Woodruff key and fortunately the only square silver steel I posses is 1/8" .

Also, lurking at the bottom of a draw was this contraption, which came with my lathe and which I have never had cause to use before.

Does anybody recognise the design? I don't recall having seen it anywhere else.

It all seemed to work OK, if a little tedious – I could only manage 1/2 thou cuts.

The cutting tool would be much better made from1/8" gauge plate so that the width is much greater than the thickness to resist bending. And that handle needs some hand friendly slips of wood riveted on.

Still, apart from the blisters, a successful afternoon.

Cheers,

Rod

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Rod

Yes I've certainly seen that method demonstrated for cutting key ways – can't quite recall where at the moment but I'll have a delve through the books later.

Norman

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi Rod and Norman

Slotting attachment for the Myford super 7 lathe is

in MHS plan list WE68 .Was published in Model Engineer

in around 1994 .I suppose i should know which issue as it was

one of mine.

John

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Hi John,

I think this design is a little different to yours. I can't recall the exact time when I got the lathe but it was certainly prior to 1989.

Thanks anyway,

Rod

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I got the Jowitt reassembled after painting and mounted it on a simple yew base.

And took a video of it running.

I also made a start on the next project a 1/3rd scale Allman 1HP vertical gas engine c 1889-1891, seems a bit of a lump after the little Jowitt.

[egaParticipant @ega]

Roderick Jenkins and John Pace:

Here is my version of the topslide slotting attachment:

Made many years ago and I don't remember the source of the idea. There is no illustration to go with WE68 in my copy of the Plans Handbook but it could well have been based on your design. The short length of garden hose has proved an acceptable handle.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 06/02/2016 18:49:41:The cutting tool would be much better made from1/8" gauge plate so that the width is much greater than the thickness to resist bending. And that handle needs some hand friendly slips of wood riveted on.

Ha! There's one job where we will let you wear a glove, seeing as the lathe is turned off!

Stub is cheered that his bandsaw ideas have been useful to a couple of folks.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 07/02/2016 16:52:07

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi ega

Using the topslide provides an easy route for these simple
slotting jobs ,the version in WE 68 places the thrust from the lever
behind the cutting tool .The tool block just sits on the top of the topslide
and automatically indexes the cutting tool in the correct orientation and at
centre height.The tools are fabricated with a thick as possible shaft with the
toolbit silver soldered on to keep this part as rigid as possible.
As Rod found when cutting the slot in that component the toolbit can be the
weak point.The unit that i have was made about eight years before it was
published and was made to cut a square hole to hold toolbits in a Quorn
grinder ,the sequence is described in the Quorn book.
I am hoping that it will become redundant later this year as i have under constuction a small shaper to do this and other internal forms.
photo in album shaper.

John

[Derek DroverParticipant @derekdrover32802]

Well having moved house two weeks before Xmas, and a builder has just extended our garage, I'm now rebuilding the workshop… Walls all painted white and it's so bright with only one batten light fitted I cant believe it ! Wish i'd painted the walls in my previous workshop.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by JasonB on 07/02/2016 15:48:24:

I got the Jowitt reassembled after painting and mounted it on a simple yew base.

And took a video of it running.

I also made a start on the next project a 1/3rd scale Allman 1HP vertical gas engine c 1889-1891, seems a bit of a lump after the little Jowitt.

Good God Jason.

Are you sure you haven't got a team of highly trained elves moonlighting from the North Pole for you.

Neil

[egaParticipant @ega]

John Pace:

Thanks for the further information about your keyway slotter; having looked at your photo I see what you mean about getting the thrust directly behind the cutting tool. I think my device may have been loosely based on a photo in Len Mason's little book Using the Small Lathe. I recently used it to turn a number of steep tapers – much quicker and easier than twiddling the topslide handle.

When I made my Quorn square holder I adopted the alternative method of welding four lengths of flat bar together and turning the outside with the job held on a square mandrel.

I hope you will keep us informed of the progress of your shaper project

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I think you'll find that these slotting tools have been around almost as long as there have been lathes, particularly in the hands of modelers, and home machinists.

Ian S C

[Harry WilkesParticipant @harrywilkes58467]

Posted by NJH on 06/02/2016 19:15:32:

Hi Rod

Yes I've certainly seen that method demonstrated for cutting key ways – can't quite recall where at the moment but I'll have a delve through the books later.

Norman

Came across this few day's back 'link'

Cheers H

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Some more photo's of the shaper in the album.

This machine is loosely based on the machine by David Gingery
but is made from steel plate and cast iron block.
As can be seen in the photo the main column is steel plates
bolted together ,the same sort of construction was used in the
building of the Universal grinding machine and provides a stable
and easily made platform for small machine tools.

The front dovetail needed a larger dovetail cutter than i had ,i was
unable to find an old one large enough to re-grind so had to make
this one seen in the photo .Made up from some old 1/8 inch carbide
shanks silver soldered into a steel body and finish ground on the Quorn.
For size comparison the spindle is 2 morse taper.

John

[egaParticipant @ega]

John Pace:

That dovetail cutter is a good advertisement for the Quorn! Was it roughed out on something else? You must have had to remove a good deal of carbide to get the required tooth section.

In the first photo, what is the green moulding (looks like GRP)?

[John PParticipant @johnp77052]

Hi ega

The positioning of the carbide was slightly off from the radial
centre doing it this way means that there is less to be ground away
and more of the shank left when the grinding is finished.
If you look at the photo (in full size) of the cutter on the Quorn the cutting
edge in the photo that is closest to you may be able to see that
the cutting edge is nearly at the full diameter of the carbide shank.
All of the grinding was done on the Quorn.

Some photo's show the constuction of a simple shutter mould
to make this fiberglass cover.Using some scrap ply these parts
are assembled into a shutter form ,all of these are covered with
a heat shrink film used for finishing model aircraft (Solarfilm)
which has the useful property of not sticking to GRP or epoxy
resin. The finished moulding looks a little rough around the edges
but with a little fettling and filling looks the part.

John

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Hello John,

That cutter would make a very unusual write up for MEW!

Neil

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

Jason.

Is it this one.?

.

Looks a nice project.

Nick

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