The Post Man Cometh.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Michael Poole on 06/12/2014 01:58:13:

Graphogen is good for motorcycle engine rebuilds, applied as an assembly compound. Their website recommends its use for all fine machinery.

Mike

Thanks Mike.

Nick

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I use good ol' 3-in-1 for running it, largely as its pretty clean and innocuous when you get it on your fingers, clothes etc… and also because a spouted can makes it easy to get into small spaces (although we all ought to be making Mogen Kilde's oilcan!

Neil

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Nick

Chuck the stock, face off, then use the strap you have just made as a gauge for turning the outside dia. of the sheave to fit ( don't forget 1 1/8" first to fit the recess in the strap then 1 1/16" for the rest – easy to get it the wrong way round and produce a "scrapper!) . It's best to leave the 1 1/8" a little large at first and concentrate on getting the fit on the 1 1/16" good. Easy to take a bit more off the ridge later to get a good fit. Face off then remove from the lathe and, from the centre ( which will be apparent from the turning marks), scribe a line 9/64" below the centre and centre pop. Put back in the 4-jaw and adjust so that the centre mark runs true. Centre drill, drill and ream 7/16" then reduce the O/D of the boss to 11/16" dia. Lastly remove from the lathe and cross drill and tap for the grub screw.

It worked for me- I've not made this one but I did make the "Real" , which uses the same parts, years ago.

 

Good luck!

Norman

Edited By NJH on 06/12/2014 14:24:21

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

From what I can find 3in 1 oil is similar in make up to WD-40, a better oil is sewing machine oil.

Ian S C

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

> 3in 1 oil is similar in make up to WD-40

They are utterly different! 3 in 1 is spindle oil so excellent for lubrication, while WD40 is a penetrating and water displacing product.

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The other two parts of the 3 in 1 oil are not really needed eg anti rusting and cleaning properties, so teh sewing machine oil that is all oil is a better choice for small parts.  I just use a light machine oil, the same as goes into my lathe gearboxs

Edited By JasonB on 07/12/2014 13:21:16

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I don't think they do any harm, and are probably beneficial in terms of getting a film of oil on the bright parts of models and tools.

It's nothing to do with me growing up on a diet supplemented by 3 in 1

Neil.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

I managed to make a right 'dogs danglers' of the eccentric on my first effort.

So with some new steel I had another dabble with lessons learned and a clearer mind.

.

Think I will go over to the valve chest next during the weekend.

And especially for Jason perhaps even some PCD holes.

Nick

[Roger Williams 2Participant @rogerwilliams2]

Nick G, lovely work and photos. For doing your PCD's, have you considered making a simple dividing head like this one , that uses changewheels. I made this one years ago for my Myford (regrettably sold recently !), so made a raising block for this lathe. It bolts on either way in a couple of minutes, so handy. Has a 48T changewheel on at the minute. Cheers.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

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Hardinge lathe.!!!! ………………………………….. Drooooooooooool.!!!!

Thanks for the tip.

Regards, Nick

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

Valve chest has been today.

I faced off the sides in the 4 jaw on the lathe both the chest and it's cover.

Then into the 3 jaw to drill for the valve rod. There is a slight offset on to one side for this.!

A long series drill was needed to drill the valve rod guide pocket.

Advice was sought and excellently given to me on another thread about the use of super glue to keep the parts in the correct position for drilling the studs.

The tapping dia was run through the cover, valve chest and cylinder castings.

The guide holes were then opened out in the chest and cover.

This worked out very well so thanks for the super glue tip and to all the others who have assisted me thus far.!

 

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 14/12/2014 20:03:30

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

Have done some work this eve on the valve, it's rod, cross bar and the jointing piece.

But which way does the valve install. The way it is shown here or rotated 90 degrees.??

Cheers, Nick

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The 9/16 is the width and the 21/32 the height so looks like you have it the right way round, though I would turn it 180 degrees as the slot should be closer to the top edge than the bottom.

[GaryMParticipant @garym]

Hi Nick,

Great progress so far.

Re: valve orientation. I asked the same question when building my S50. See this thread

**LINK**

Gary

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

OK guy's. Back on parade again now after a 'sabbatical' of decorating and tiling.

So we jump onto the long awaited PCD holes associated with the cylinder and the ends that join onto it.

I did a trial run on some scrap yesterday and this eve started with the most easily remade part if I made a dogs-danglers of it. So I first did the cylinder bottom / supporting plate.

With that done seemingly OK I next did the cylinder head. First spotting with a small center drill and then 7BA clearance holes.

I used a laser edge finder to find the center of each piece so that I could then punch the center into the DRO

7BA tapping size drill was then used on the cylinder head. – Nearly dropped a clanger as originally picked up the 7BA clearance drill. Fortunately I realised before it was too late.!

By this stage I am wondering if it will all fit.?

It does. ………….. So no four letter words were required. ( not that they would have fixed it &nbsp

So Nick goes to bed a happy-chappy tonight.

Nick

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Looking good Nick and I like the way the hole positions are displayed as it gives you a visual check before you start drilling.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Nick

MichaelG.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by JasonB on 27/01/2015 07:35:29:

Looking good Nick and I like the way the hole positions are displayed as it gives you a visual check before you start drilling.

Yes. I found that very helpful. I could see that I had originally entered the wrong start and end angles.

Taking that aside the menu on the unit is very intuitive. – I only had to read the manual once to do the PCD's

Nick

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

I know I am jumping ahead of the game here as the engine is not finished. But just thinking for the future.

Would this **LINK** boiler be OK to run the James Coombes.

Thanks, Nick

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

I don't know if anybody else is the same when they return to a project. But after a month away from the engine I find I am having to get back into the swing and rhythm of what I was doing previously.

I was never happy with the finish that I had upon the flywheel. It's accuracy I was happy with but I did not feel the surface was good enough to get a nice polish on. So I decided to reface it with the Eccentric engineering tool holder that I had purchased since the original machining.

I did not fancy trying to dial in the 3/8" crankshaft bore back in on the faceplate so I decided to make a mandrill with a snug fit to the bore of the flywheel. I had some EN24 that I had liberated from a friends scrap bin so used that and cut a 10mm thread on the lathe to hold the flywheel secure.

Cuts of about 5 tho to all sides with a freshly sharpened tool gave a much sweeter surface that I should now be able to polish.

Hope to be able to make some more progress into fresh areas this week end.

Nick

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Looking at my old Stuart catalogue when they also used to do boilers they suggest the No 504 for the James Combes and all the others that use the same cylinder. This was a 3.5" dia x 10" boiler so the PMR one would be around the same size. You can get them in the UK from Forrest Classics.

There is a build diary of one on MEM which will give you a better idea of what they are like, and what mistakes to avoid, give me a while to track it down.

J

PS as the JC has a drive pully the flywheel would more than likely have had a painted flywheel rim

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Here you go, don't spend all day reading it there is swarf to be made

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by JasonB on 31/01/2015 08:00:17:

Here you go, don't spend all day reading it there is swarf to be made

Thanks for the information Jason. (once again )

Yup swarf to be made. – But for the first time in ages the sun is shining and it's not raining on a weekend. – I am tempted to get my two wheels out and and pretend in my own disillusioned mind I am Valentino Rossi.

I wonder if I could take power from motorbike to rotate my workshop machines. Now that would be a project.

Nick

[Martin CottrellParticipant @martincottrell21329]

I wonder if I could take power from motorbike to rotate my workshop machines. Now that would be a project.

Nick

Hi Nick, you're sounding more like Guy Martin than Valentino Rossi but that's no bad thing!!

Martin.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Hi Nick, you're sounding more like Guy Martin than Valentino Rossi but that's no bad thing!!

Martin.

My likeness to Rossi ends usually within 100 yards of me setting off and realising what speed I am doing. This is then followed by me chopping the throttle well before the first corner so I can go round it at the same speed my grandmother would have.

Anyway, back to the build.

Today I drilled and fitted the crosshead guides.

I then have made a start on the cross heads.

.

After I finish the cross heads I will move onto the con rod. On the James Coombes this is a 'Y' shaped affair. This by the look of it will probably be a none too easy exercise for a newbie like me so any tips will be welcome.

Nick

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