Responding to Noel –
It does not need certifying if you are going to be its only user at home; though certainly do still test it.
If you intended offering its use to, say, other members of a model-engineering club then you would need it formally passing fit for service by the club boiler-admirer just as if it is part of a miniature locomotive or traction-engine. Though I suspect some club boiler-testers would refuse it as too unfamiliar or the like, to them; or on grounds of it being a steel boiler of unknown provenance.
You won't go far wrong by adapting the standard MELG handbook instructions for its cold hydraulic test as a new boiler, and for testing the safety-valves as per the "Steam Accumulation Test". The instructions cover only testing a pressure-vessel: they do not cover how the water is heated, as that is not relevant.
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SpeedyBuilder:
At least you've the advantage with electric "firing", that if summat happens as shouldn't, you simply switch it off!
Whether manually or by a pressure-switch does not really matter. There is little metal in this proposed design to hold heat, and once the element is off, the boiling will diminish and stop very rapidly.
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[As an aside, if you ever had the pleasure of seeing Ron Jarvis' working model Newcomen Engine, you might know its boiler, about the size of a small orange, is electrically heated, with the controls on a discreet panel in the plinth. Both the original and scaled replica worked at a heady 2 psi, and Ron realised electric "firing" and fine control was the only way forwards, so designed and fitted the appropriate equipment. As he wryly commented, there can't be many 18C atmospheric engines with automatic microprocessor control…. ]