Techniques for engraving and etching brass

[Brian LawrensonParticipant @brianlawrenson37142]

My wife wants me to make a conventional horizontal sundial for the garden and I have spent some time learning how to calculate the angles required for our latitude and longitude. I’ve made a mock-up in cardboard which works excellently (using the necessary Equation of Time corrections). Can anyone suggest a source of clear and accurate information about incising the lines and numerals into brass? I guess photoetching would be best and I think it is possible to make iron-on acid resit using an inkjet printer…

Regards,

Brian L

[Brian LawrensonParticipant @brianlawrenson37142]

[keithmartParticipant @keithmart]

Hi

Try this link:-

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=24249

Best regards

Keith

Leeds UK

[NilochParticipant @niloch]

John Wilding has covered the technique of planing numerals in one of his several books. Consult:

http://www.ritetimepublishing.co.uk

to identify and buy the correct one.

[CirclipParticipant @circlip]

A laser printer would be better Brian, another link to have a look at is:-  http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm

 

  Regards  Ian.

[Geoff TheasbyParticipant @geofftheasby]

I made a simple sundial with Letraset for the numerals.

If you wanted to reverse etch the dial (with the numerals showing proud) these transfers are proof against printed circuit board etchant.

Just rub the Letraset off the dial after etching.

 

Regards

Geoff

[Ian AbbottParticipant @ianabbott31222]

If you can draw accurately enough, you can do what us printmakers do with asphaltum and an etching needle to produce an etching plate.

Asphaltum is cheap from Lawrences Art Supplies on line and an etching needle is anything that will scrape the stuff off when it’s dry.  The process is to coat the entire thing with the asphaltum, which is basically tar, and draw the design through, onto the brass.  Where the brass is exposed, the acid will etch.

 

Another method which we use, is to stick MacTac on the brass and cut away the bits you want to etch. 

 

There is one other method which relies on a photo polymer used for things like glass etching and making photo etching plates.  A positive image on velum or acetate is put over the sheet of medium and exposed to the sun, (if you don’t have a UV exposure unit) then the unexposed part is washed away with a hot spray of water.

They can be in the form of a polymer on a carrier which is stuck on the metal after it’s been exposed and washed, or a substance which is brushed on an then exposed.  Both kinds are quite user friendly and should be relatively easy to find. 

 

Ian 

[Maurice Cox 1Participant @mauricecox1]

There is an “iron on” etching paper available from “Maplins” and others, with which you can make etching masks. It does require a lazer printer or photocopier. When it comes to the etching, if you intend to use ferric chloride, I was told by firm that does it on a comercial scale that if the etching process seems a bit slow, don’t increase the strength, water it down! Apparently, oxygen is a catalyst to the reaction, so oxygenated water will help. They also recommended suspending the work face down in the etching bath (with the face clear of the bottom) to allow the debris to fall away. Keep the bath rocking gently during the etch.

[Jim NolanParticipant @jimnolan76764]

You can get some advice from this series of Trainman vids

 

Part one here on youtube

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMSDHv3f_vk

 

If the link will not work go to youtube and search for trainman4602

 

Jim

[Terry LaneParticipant @terrylane]

Also, introduce an air stone, coupled to a cheap aquarium pump, into the etching bath – takes care of agitation.

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