I am restoring my bike and would like to have your opinion about the best way to treat the six small metal tabs fixing the plastic chrome trim along the lower end of the tank:
I'm afraid to snap some of them while opening again and bending, because of work hardening of the metal (I don't know how many times this has been done before, I bought the bike second hand 35 years ago). I understand that I could anyway glue the trim on the edge, but I would like to handle this in the best possible way and, in general, know how to treat similar problems.
What do you think is the best way: heating the tabs while reopening (I can use a small oxy-gas torch I own), annealing them in some way etc…?
I was surprised, when you titled your post "tank restoration" I was thinking Water tank? Army tank? I was not expecting petrol tank.
I can't offer any advice, I used to own a BSA A10 and the tank cracked around the outlet, I couldn't find anyone to repair it and had to replace it with a cosmetically inferior one. Happy days, I paid £12 for the bike and sold it for £70.
>> I was surprised, when you titled your post "tank restoration" I was thinking Water tank? Army tank? I was not expecting petrol tank.
yes…it didn't come to my mind that the title was a bit generic…perhaps I'm unintentionally drawing more attention….
This tank was responsible for my bike being stopped for the last 25 years: I didn't use it for a couple of years, leaving it in the garage, then when I put some gasoline in the tank to use it again, I saw it dripping on the floor. Some water was in the tank and rust corroded the seam on the left side of it.
Soon found a guy who repaired it with tin solder, but work, lack of time etc. prevented me from completing the repair (removing internal rust, resin lining, painting…)
If I were worried about them snapping at the welded joint, I would clean the joint up well, use active acid flux an put a good dollop of soft solder in the joint. I doubt the tab would break, more likely the weld joint.
Unfortunately filling with water is not a sure fire way of being safe, as you heat it any gas vapour eluded inside the tank will rise to the highest part, if that happens to be the open filler all well and good but otherwise it will pocket and be more likely to go bang than if there were no water in at all. We used to repair ali tanks from racing cars, they had to be steam cleaned for something like 30 minutes non stop before we were allowed near them. I used to blow compressed air through them when I did my own to disperse any unwanted gas, no science behind it but nothing ever went bad (I am not advising this, just saying). Akin to putting the car exhaust pipe in possibly.