Stuart ‘Victoria’ : a beginners tale..

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks to you too Allan – and just a small update…..

Day 41.

The Valve Spindle.

This again I guess should be a very easy and quick job – but I have been struggling in turning very small diameters due to the work flexing and this was no exception, made worse maybe as this time it was in Stainless Steel. Think maybe I need to try turning these small sizes with a sharp ground steel tool, at least for comparison to the replacement 'indexable' tips I have been using (seems a strange name, I have no idea why they are so called) – these do seem to have a very round profile to the cutting edge and it seems to me (I'm only guessing though) that they would exert more force to make a cut, perhaps causing more flexing? Anyways I could not get the small diameter to turn parallel again 3/32" and ended up with an almost 6 thou taper this time – so a few 'ground steel tools are on my shopping list to get in before the next project…. I don't think this is all down to the Lathe setup as large diameters seem to turn fine…

The Valve Crosshead and Spindle Drawing, (including the sliding Valve).

The materials supplied for the Valve Crosshead and Spindle – the Crosshead being Mild Steel and the Spindle Stainless Steel. The Crosshead material is what was left over from my many attempts at making the Levers previously, there is just enough left I hope….

Initial Facing Off of the Valve Spindle – showing the small diameter to work with…

Included this as I have been caught out before – checking the Die is sitting square in the holder before starting to thread, it is so easy for it not to be and not notice until too late…… My 'budget' kit may be to blame here as well I guess.

Threading the Valve Spindle and here again pulled the chuck around by hand.

The Valve Spindle with 5BA thread and small diameter turned.

The finished Valve Spindle.

The Steam Chest Cover removed and test fitting the Valve Spindle in the Sliding Valve inside the Steam Chest. It all seems to slide nicely..

Regards

Allan.

 

Edited By Allan. on 16/12/2013 15:30:15

Edited By Allan. on 16/12/2013 15:31:48

[julian atkinsParticipant @julianatkins58923]

hi allan,

you have done extremely well with the valve spindle. well done! i hate making these things in stainless.

you need to file a small flat on the 3/32" end.

cheers,

julian

[Anonymous]

Nice looking job!

Contrary to popular opinion stainless steel can turn beautifully with an excellent finish, but you do need the correct grade. Grades 303 and 316 are fine, 304 can be a right pig.

Regards,

Andrew

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Cheers Julian and Andrew. Julian would you mind explaining the need for the "small flat" on the Spindle? Many thanks.

and just another small update..

Day 42.

The Valve Crosshead.

The Valve Crosshead and Spindle Drawing, (including the sliding Valve).

Centering ready to drill the 'Stud" hole in the Valve Crosshead. (ignore the existing hole which is just a left over from an earlier failed attempt at the Levers and is to be cut off..)

Center drilling the Valve Crosshead.

Test fitting the Stud in the Valve Crosshead. There are to be two 'Links' either side sitting on the Stud..

Drilling the Spindle end of the Valve Crosshead.

Turning the Diameter on the Valve Crosshead.

Tapping the Valve Crosshead.

Test fitting the Finished Valve Crosshead to the Spindle 1.

Test fitting the Finished Valve Crosshead to the Spindle 2.

Regards

Allan.

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Posted by julian atkins on 16/12/2013 15:41:58:

hi allan,

you need to file a small flat on the 3/32" end.

cheers,

julian

Hi Julian – what is the flat for?

Steve

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The hole in the chest that the 3/32" end fits into can fill with condensate or a buildup of steam oil and the valve rod will act like a piston and you can suffer hydralic lock, the flat lets any liquid escape.

The flat is not on the actual "end" but filed to give a slight "D" section to the round rod.

Comming along well Allan.

J

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

That's interesting, and will do – thanks Jason.

Cheers.

Allan.

[GaryMParticipant @garym]

Julian & Jason,

Thanks from me as well for the "flat" tip. I've been following Allan's build log as some of it is similar to the S50 I'm making and I'd not come across this suggestion.

Gary

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Cheers Jason, I'll add that to the to do list for my Victoria…

Steve

[julian atkinsParticipant @julianatkins58923]

Jason get there before me with a fuller explanation!

thanks Jason! glad the 'tip' is of help and surprised it isnt more well known and not mentioned on the drawings etc

cheers,

julian

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Happy Christmas and New Year to you all and thanks again for all the advice..

 

Day 43. ( This was too long to put in one post so have had to split..)

The Piston and Piston Rod.

Haven't done a brilliant job again with this but have learnt quite a bit I think, which was great…..

The main 'mistake' was not having any material to make a split bush with which to hold the Piston Rod (various sizes of bar 'stock' material now been added to my ever growing shopping list..). I think this was essential really and would have been simple and quick to make…. The result in not having the bush was that the Rod was easily marked in the chuck, despite holding lightly and soon losing the 'ground' finish – all not good for future wearing etc.. The other was not quite getting the 'packing groove' to correct width and having to remove the 'O' Ring and resize, not easy without damaging it…

It all seems to slide and fit ok though, although the rubber 'O' Ring seems to stick slightly sometimes, I guess making steel piston rings would have been too advanced….

The Piston assembly Drawing.

The material supplied for the Piston and Piston Rod. Stainless Steel for the Rod and Cast Iron for the Piston.

Turning the Piston end of the Rod for threading 5BA.

Threading the Piston Rod 5BA.

Half of the Turned length was threaded with the 5BA thread.

One end of the Piston Rod done.

The 'Crosshead' end of the Piston Rod was threaded 2BA in the same way as above.

After facing, the piston was lightly centre drilled and turned to about 1/32 oversize.

A parting tool was used to do the 'Packing Groove'.

continued…

 

Edited By Allan. on 23/12/2013 18:40:33

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Day 43 Continued..

The Piston was then drilled 5BA Clearance Size.

A small boring tool was used to do the recess in the Piston to take the locking nut.

After parting off oversize lengthways the piston was reversed in the chuck and faced off to length – photo showing setting up square… The parallels' removed before turning of course.. The Piston still not yet turned to the finished diameter..

The Piston so far.

The Piston and Piston Rod test fitted together but not yet finished.

Holding by the Piston Rod and skimming the Piston to run true with the Rod and to final diameter.

Test fitting the Piston to the Cylinder – no 'O' Ring fitted yet..

The finished Piston with 'O' Ring fitted.

Test fitting the Piston in the engine and checking the movement.. No slop but with the 'O'' Ring fitted it sticks a bit sometimes…

(The guide bars are parallel to each other, just an optical effect in the photo making them looking bowed!..)

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

A little update to making the Piston and Rod. I thought I would try and see if I could do anything about the slight sticking of the Piston and so removed it once more and with the Rod connected to the Piston and holding by the Rod in the 3 Jaw again I took another two skims off the Piston, only a thou each time – after the second pass the Piston now slides much better, really smoothly with a nice 'soft feel' and with no hint of any sticking. I think it may have been due to having to take apart and removing the O ring to widen the packing groove after the initial 'skimming' – I had simply put them back together, tightened the nut again and fitted to the Cylinder. Anyway maybe someone doing similar and just starting out in the hobby like me may find it useful and something to watch out for etc.

Cheers

Allan.

[julian atkinsParticipant @julianatkins58923]

hi allan,

i wouldnt have taken anymore off but added some light graphite oil or 2 in 1 oil – assuming you had not already done so. makes a huge difference. otherwise the 'O' ring is acting like an eraser – try an ordinary eraser on your cylinder bore and see what it does to the eraser!

you have made a superb job of the valve crosshead – a very complicated assembly.

i use the 4-jaw for chucking piston rods with the material overlength and the piston end supported by tailstock centre. if the jaws leave any marks (which they sometimes do) then i can cut off the excess. appreciate you probably didnt have sufficient material to do this. anyone else had difficulties getting collets to tighten sufficiently for machining piston rods, screwing onto the pistons, and finishing the pistons? ive got the standard myford collets.

cheers,

julian

Edited By julian atkins on 25/12/2013 22:21:05

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Julian

Thanks, its bits of info like this that is really useful, I did use some 3 in 1 oil beforehand but only a tiny amount as I wasn't sure if it was really the thing to be doing (I've not heard of 2 in 1 before..)…

and have not yet had much luck with turning small diameters using the tailstock to steady using the replacement tip tools I have as the the work piece has often been flexing away from the tool resulting in a taper – but intend in future to try with some HSS tools to see if there is any improvement. Also and perhaps the main drawback I have yet found with my little lathe is sometimes a problem getting the tool to the end of the work as the tailstock barrel barely extends over the Cross Slide, unless its me missing something of course…

Cheers

Allan.

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Merry Christmas Allan. Nice set of photo's of usual.

Saw your use if parallel's to set up for machining the piston. Can I not tempt you to try one of these?

By taking a light skim before setting up the workpiece you end up with a parallel base and there is no chance of the workpiece slipping in the jaws.

It's just a blank arbor, drilled and tapped 12mm, a piece of 12mm threaded rod and a piece of cast iron round as the support.

Steve

PS: The chuck guard as shipped with the C6 has been replaced with one of those highly versatile invisible types.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Allan

Super work continuing; going back to your bit on the gland set up & machining you said 'using the 2" elliptical brass supplied '…so I assume that this came with the kit, do you (or anyone else ) know of where this material can be purchased as a separate item, I've looked at the usual suppliers on t'internet but all I can find (at the mo' ) is the usual, round, square, hex' flat, etc. I'm thinking maybe a 'nice to have bit ' available for future,

Cheers

George

Edited By mechman48 on 26/12/2013 14:30:50

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Mechman48 Have you tried Stuart Turner themselves ? They used to supply parts of their kits

Roy

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi George.

Roy is correct you can buy direct from Stuart Models (I had to order a replacement myself as I ran out for the last gland..). The link is here http://www.stuartmodels.com/part_cat.cfm?cat=6 and the part code is BX490.

(Don't worry if your confirmation email doesn't specify what you have purchased as you might expect, you just get a reference number – the service has always been 1st class for me..)

Hi Steve

Yes I can see the advantages, it looks very useful. I would like to have a go at making one but wonder if I would be able to get the cast iron to sit exactly square on the thread – may need to up my game a bit first..

Merry Christmas all.

Allan.

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Hi Allan, It doesn't need to sit square on the thread, you just lock it tight at approximately the right place, then take a light skim before mounting the workpiece. So, everytime you change the height of the backstop, you take a light skim so it's always right. That means it's always square and no precision work is necessary in making the thing. You should also think of the cast iron backstop as a disposable piece, if you want to drill through or bore the workpiece for example.

Steve

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi Allen/Roy

Thanks for the link, I had scoured the Stuarts catalogue (2010) from front to back & not seen the relevant part #, the only description I could see was in the 'Brass rods / sections' in the back which give part #'s starting as 32- xxxx- xxxxx. Must jot it down for future ref, thanks again

George

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Steve

Ah, I see now, thanks, what a neat idea! I'll add a blank arbor to my shopping list – well worth trying I think. I've lost count of the number of times parallels have slipped out while setting up….

Cheers

Allan.

[julian atkinsParticipant @julianatkins58923]

hi allan,

i think your parallels method was very good. i use old ball race cages and anything else to hand. time spent making fancy jigs and bits is valuable construction time in my book!

cheers,

julian

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Posted by Steve Withnell on 26/12/2013 12:55:13:

Merry Christmas Allan. Nice set of photo's of usual.

Saw your use if parallel's to set up for machining the piston. Can I not tempt you to try one of these?

By taking a light skim before setting up the workpiece you end up with a parallel base and there is no chance of the workpiece slipping in the jaws.

It's just a blank arbor, drilled and tapped 12mm, a piece of 12mm threaded rod and a piece of cast iron round as the support.

Steve

PS: The chuck guard as shipped with the C6 has been replaced with one of those highly versatile invisible types.

Hi Steve, neat idea, must give a go sometime.

Hi Allan, nice work.

Regards Nick.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

No more progress over Christmas but just a little update nonetheless as its all part of my little story of the engine build…

I did get about half way through doing the the Piston Crosshead but managed to snap a 2mm drill bit while drilling the tapping hole on the lathe (mild steel). Seemed to go for no reason – I had when first starting out bought a 'cheap' set of drill bits, about 200 various sizes for about £50 I think it was, and I've had several of the smaller sizes go now. The individual sizes I buy seem to be a much better quality and i'll stick to buying this way in future I think… Anyways I couldn't get the snapped bit out and so am waiting on a replacement piece of bar to try again..

Meantime I thought I would have a go at the Con Rod. This looks like a really interesting project all on its own and a bit daunting at the moment if I'm honest – I expect this will likely take several attempts.. Workshop time is going to be difficult for a while as well (my wife had an accident while walking the dog Christmas morning and fractured her leg, in plaster for another two weeks yet – we spent Christmas morning at the hospital!), so I think its going to be a case of lots of little sessions as and when. This may turn out to be not such a bad thing as I thought I would post each little bit of progress on here and hope to get some advice along the way, I think I will need all the help I can get with this part – maybe collate the steps into a single post at the end for easier reading..

I would like to do the turning between centres as I've never tried this before and have ordered a small set of (cheap!) straight leg Lathe Dogs which I hope to run from the faceplate, also a small 2MT Live Centre with an 'extended nose' which I hope will make getting the tool in to workpiece end easier and better than the 'dead' centre I have now. First steps I think will be to face, drill and ream the big and little ends and then setup to centre drill the bar ends, maybe another hole for the internal end of the fork, not sure on this yet? The bar supplied is only 7 inches long so I hope that will be enough to do it this way..

This is the Connecting Rod Drawing. (sorry its a bit fuzzy). There is a separate brass bush to make for the Little End and shown in the drawing.

and the 7" long supplied bar to make it..

Hope to start posting progress again soon..

Cheers and Happy New Year!

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 31/12/2013 13:23:42

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