Stringer EW lathe

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Hi Zac

Well done, you've purchased a very robust and useful small lathe. I use a 1/2Hp motor on mine but that is probably an overkill – however it was what I had available. You will also need to build a countershaft (if you don't have the EW one) but they are not hard to make.

My "temporary" one is still in use after quite a few years now and will likely remain so until I finally get around to building a clutch unit. There are quite a few photos in my albums showing my early days when setting up the EW.

If you have any questions – then just ask.

Regards,

IanT

[Isaac CromackParticipant @isaaccromack64574]

Hello

Thank you all for replying. Apologies for the late response but i have been away.

Here are some pictures of the Lathe. I could not get them here but added to the Album section.

Founds some good info here – http://modelengineeringnorge.weebly.com/updating-the-ew-lathe.html

I would like to find and buy a GEAR TRAIN GUARD for the Stringer lathe.

I will post some questions soon

Thanks again

Isaac

Edited By Isaac Cromack on 28/02/2016 01:19:00

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Isaac Cromack on 28/02/2016 01:15:31:

Here are some pictures of the Lathe. I could not get them here but added to the Album section.

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Chucks in neat wooden boxes, with DYMO labels

Very good sign of a cared-for machine

MichaelG.

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To insert photos [from your Album] into a post, click the Camera icon [next to right on the top row] and follow-your-nose.

[Isaac CromackParticipant @isaaccromack64574]

Hi

I would like to clean the Chucks, Lathe Bed, turn wheels etc..etc..back to like new condition/colour….what would you suggest please?

Thanks

Isaac

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Hallo Isaac,

No one seems to have ventured to give you an answer, so I thought I would try to help a little (although this is a very subjective area in my view).

First, I think you should differentiate between what we might call the "precision" surfaces (e.g. the lathe bed) and other (less) "precise" surfaces – such as handles and chuck bodies. Let's deal with the latter first.

Old machinery that has 'bare' surfaces often suffers to a greater or lesser extent to rusting if neglected (and sometimes even when cared for). This can range from severe rust & pitting to light surface rust. There are two approaches to removal – either chemical or mechanical – and I guess there are combinations of the two where some abrasives are involved. For light 'tarnishing' careful rubbing with fine wire wool (not the kitchen type) or other fine abrading materials will often bring up the surfaces very well. Remember to lightly oil the cleaned surface immediately afterwards.

For heavily rusted areas, then some form of chemical (or possibly electro-chemical) process can be used – my favourite is immersion in citric acid (eBay Indian cooking suppliers) – however although this will remove the rust – it cannot repair any underlying damage or pitting. There is not too much that you can do about bad pitting without re-machining the surface or perhaps just filling and panting over it. On some surfaces (handles for instance) you might be able to 'buff' up the surface (with a suitable buffing set-up) and simply accept that you are buffing up a pitted surface. I've done this in the past on some small handles that I didn't want to paint and although the surface was still badly marked – it was at least now a 'shiny' handle and looked better and nicer to use (in my view) than just leaving the way it was. (Purists will probably be having fits by now).

The best advice I think is to be patient and not rush into anything by being too aggressive (or using too aggressive or coarse polishing agents). I'm also assuming that you have also had the patience to carefully dis-assemble and clean everything before deciding the best 'restoring' approach for each individual item. So (for instance) take that chuck completely apart before you try to improve/restore the finish of the body – and after you've worked on the body – wash it again in white spirits to get any cleaning agent/debris off before you re-oil and assemble it.

As with many things on the forum – it would be much easier to demonstrate these methods to you than describe them but that (very quickly) is how I personally approach "non-precise" surfaces…

As for "precise" surfaces – my advice is to clean and lubricate them and then carefully re-assemble and adjust them – BUT (other than that) leave them well alone.

If they are so badly damaged that this is not sufficient – then the machine probably wasn't the right one for you to start with. It may well be possible to restore these surfaces but it's generally not a job for a beginner. I might add that the top surface of my EW lathe bed is badly 'stained' (something has been spilt on it) but that as far as I can tell – this has not effected the lathes accuracy in any way. It's annoying but seemingly just cosmetic, so I've left it well alone.

Machine restoration is a large subject (books have been written about it) but take your time and perhaps work on (and test) a small area before getting really stuck in and I'm sure you will be pleasantly surprised at how nicely old machinery surfaces can come up. Perhaps not as new (unless you really spend a lot of time on them) but more than good enough to look workman-like.

Hope this helps you get started – even if just a little.

Enjoy your EW Isaac, they are good little machines and well worth caring for.

Regards,

IanT

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

I have been restoring my old Champion No. 2 drill and my son's Adept No.2 hand shaper and have been using an old lathe tool of a size I can't use in my small lathe, Then oil and emery cloth, but not agressively. I really prefer a scrape to a scratch.

Today, by chance, I found a beautiful machine vice with a V block on its bottom surface! Beautifully made, but the seller claimed it was useless because nothing moved so I got it for just one of my English pounds. Further on I found a very nice curved bearing scraper for 50p! Getting both home and having some of that remarkable canned squirt called 5-something by Wurth I quickly had the movable vice jaw moving again and off. I can't, as yet, move the threaded portion, but after a soak overnight it should do, then it'll be cleanable and I'll have a really good item of workshop equipment and a pleasant hour or so in the afternoon sunshine.

My son got an EW lathe and when he cleaned his he dd it much the same way and has pressed it straight into use making some very fine wheels and bearings for 1/43rd scale slot cars.

Cheers,

Martin

[Isaac CromackParticipant @isaaccromack64574]

Hello Ian

Many thanks for the excellent reply. My apologies but i have been away and was unable to respond earlier

Thanks again

Isaac

[Jim ArnottParticipant @jimarnott21196]

I too Have an EW that I bought locally is there a possibility that I could have a copy of the info that was circulated.

I am located in the Hampshire Berkshire borders

JIm

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Hallo Jim,

Just seen your post and it's a bit late now – but I will PM you tomorrow.

Regards,

IanT

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

Hello everybody!

I've just got hold of a EW lathe it's in fantastic condition the only problem is I can't find a chuck for it !

Any advice appreciated!

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Hallo Justin,

That's an interesting EW you have there – someone has made some changes to the lead screw it seems and possibly added a 'slow-drive' too….

Anyway – back to your question with regards to EW chucks.

A suitable chuck is quite easy to obtain, it's the back plate for it that's the problem in practice. I'm not near my EW at the moment and cannot remember the thread used on the EW headstock spindle off-hand but that's what you need to be able to machine or tap. So next question is did your EW lathe come with a faceplate (or any other spindle fitting – such as a drive-pin plate for between centres turning?).

Or maybe you have access to another lathe?

Regards,

 

IanT

P.S. Some close ups of the lead screw (perhaps in your photo album) would be appreciated…

Edited By IanT on 29/04/2017 16:54:02

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

Hello IanT, the lathe did not come with a faceplate or center,I have a small unimat db200 but I don't think that will help me!

Will take some more pictures of the leadscrew,it has been modified at the tail stock end it is indexable and has thrust bearings either side

Regards Justin

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Hi Justin,

Well one of those would have helped but it's not the end of the world and we can probably figure something out.

Why don't you PM me and we can email/chat about the options off line?

Had a look at your album by the way (thank you for posting the detail) and I will save your photos (so I can invert them) and look at them in a bit more comfort later. I have an eye infection at the moment that is already giving me a bit of a headache and looking at those photos upside down isn't helping it.

I will also look at my EW tomorrow and refresh my memory about the required spindle dimensions…

Regards,

IanT

[michael pottsParticipant @michaelpotts88182]

Hello Justin.

I wondered who had bought the EW lathe on ebay a few days ago. Now I know.

The EW lathe spindle is 1" X 12 TPI Whitworth form. Tracy Tools sell taps and dies ; I have just bought them to make a backplate for my EW lathe, and it fits very well. The three jaw chuck is 80 mm or equivalent, the four jaw is 100 mm or equivalent, both Burnerd. I used a 90 mm piece of cast iron to make the backplate, screwcut it on another lathe, and the tap ran straight down. I now need to get the lathe running to machine the chuck register. That means fitting the lathe , countershaft and motor on a board. The only thing that I am sure about is that it will weigh a ton.

I have no doubt that this conversation will continue. I wish you success.

Regards. Mike.

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

IanT thank you for reply I have no idea why photos are upside down? Will pm you on Monday as I am out for the day on Sunday Regards Justin

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

Michael thank you for the information!

Can't wait to get the lathe up and running I was stunned by the quality when I saw it in the flesh!

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

Hello I have a update on my EW lathe .I managed to get hold of a original backplate and chuck also welded up a frame for the countershaft mounted it all on a new board and made a steel tray 'now I have just got to sort out the wiring for the motor ! I want to fit a no voltage release switch for safety sake as well.

Very pleased and can't wait to use the lathe now. Regards Justin

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Well done Justin – please keep us posted (and maybe a photo or two! )

Regards,

IanT

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

Yes I will put some pictures up when it's finished hopefully at the weekend!

Regards Justin

[MichaelRParticipant @michaelr]

Justin's lathe looks good this way up. Mike.

[Paul White 3Participant @paulwhite3]

hello all.

Can anybody give a purpose for the lugs an the headstock castings, front. of Justin's lathe, in 65 years of EW interest this is a first for me.

Thanks.

Paul

[IanTParticipant @iant]

No, never seen this kind of headstock on an EW before Paul – and it has several other differences/modifications too. All very interesting and possibly a special model of some kind?

Regards,

IanT

[Paul White 3Participant @paulwhite3]

Ian. thanks for your reply, at least I hav'nt been asleep for the past half century. Very interesting as you say I look foreward to more info.

regards

Paul.

[Justin BennettsParticipant @justinbennetts65988]

Hello Paul ' they are shims on the headstock I presume to stop you over tightening and breaking the casting

Although since taking the lathe apart for cleaning I do not seem to be able to tighten the screws up tight enough to hold them in place without the spindle locking or uncomfortably tight! I think there must be a order you tighten things up ?

Regards Justin

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