Gentlemen (& Ladies, if any),
I am not an engineer per se. Hence the strengths of materials is something I know very little about. Indeed, hitherto it has been a case of using what looks satisfactory, except that for cast iron, it is my understanding that cast iron is relatively good in compression, but not so good in the other direction. Therefore I was somewhat concerned that I might pull out the screw. Fortunately, the opinion so far is that my M6 bolt into 11mm of cast iron will be more than satisfactory for a 17kg pull.
One of my original ideas, which still remains as a possibility, was to insert a plate inside the casting to spread the load and at the same time place the casting under a compressive load.
Since the original replies I have tapped the casting for M6 on the basis that if it does pull out, I can then drill M6 clear and then add a plate inside the casting.
I am aware that numerous people have used gas springs as used on car boot lids, indeed I have a set of plans for using one from a Peugeot 105 series. The article by Phil Dawes that I referred to in my original post states that the force generated by a gas strut is non-linear. I have no way of checking that, so I can only go by what Dawes has said, hence the idea of using a counterbalancing weight which should be a linear force, and which does actually make some sort of sense to me. The basic idea then, is to attach a cycle chain to the top of the milling head, route it over the top of the column via a pair of wheels, and then suspend a weight of, in my case, 18-19kg on the end of the chain. The reason for the extra weight over the actual weight of the head is to provide a permanent up force on the head. So, no connection to garage roofs or indeed anything else.
Finally, the idea of using a lifting eye is fair enough – except that I had already drilled and tapped for M6 when that point was made. And, somewhat unfortunately, discovered that when I reassembled the head after drilling and tapping, that the outer cover of the motor prevents a straight pull on the screw. My fault, I should have assembled first, had a good look around, and only then disassembled for drilling & tapping. What that means is that the tapped hole is of the order of 6mm too near to the motor so I am now considering how to make a suitably offset shackle. My first effort is going to be to use a piece of aluminium channel, however, I have a suspicion that it might not be satisfactory due to its physical size. No matter, I'll get out the knife and fork and make one out of steel if necessary.
As I said at the beginning, I'm not an engineer per se. Indeed everything that I do is aimed totally at increasing my knowledge, ie learning by experimentation, and if along the way I manage to do something that works and is useful, then hooray. Of course, I also learn by making mistakes, and hopefully, I learn from those mistakes.
So thanks for all the suggestions and thoughts.
Peter G. Shaw