speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Think I’ll stick to my belt head, back geared, 20+ year old Taiwanese lathe, although some times I would like it to be gear headed, but as it was 20 years ago, I’ll keep away from electronics, just KISS. Ian S C

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi Guys,>>

 >>

I have just purchased a second hand CL300M Metal Lathe but unfortunately it is missing the control box and all its components. I just wondered if anybody knew where I might get the whole unit without having to buy all the individual components from Clarke’s spares. I have read all your post with interest and realize that the most vulnerable component seems to be the electronic controller. I am a beginner to all this, but have some grounding in electronics. Would it be possible to buy the reversing switch, potentiometer (speed controller), fuse holder etc from reputable electronic firms such as Maplins or Rapid. Although the switch and pot etc have values they have no ratings e.g. wattage. Could you give me an idea of what I would require as I do not want to fit something to a new board which is going to create problems? I obviously have none of the orginal components to make comparisons.

I would also welcome any advice on fitting and wiring up the components as I note a number of connecting posts on the side of the lathe. Thanks in anticipation of a reply.

 

[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6551/lathe.jpg[/img]

Edited By William Smiles on 22/11/2010 16:25:03

Edited By William Smiles on 22/11/2010 16:28:30

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Edited By William Smiles on 22/11/2010 16:26:18

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi Guys,

Sorry to post again but have just found how to post a photo. I now include a photograph so you can see my starting point.

I have just purchased a second hand CL300M Metal Lathe but unfortunately it is missing the control box and all its components. I just wondered if anybody knew where I might get the whole unit without having to buy all the individual components from Clarke's spares. I have read all your post with interest and realize that the most vulnerable component seems to be the electronic controller. I am a beginner to all this, but have some grounding in electronics. Would it be possible to buy the reversing switch, potentiometer (speed controller), fuse holder etc from reputable electronic firms such as Maplins or Rapid. Although the switch and pot etc have values they have no ratings e.g. wattage. Could you give me an idea of what I would require as I do not want to fit something to a new board which is going to create problems? I obviously have none of the orginal components to make comparisons.

I would also welcome any advice on fitting and wiring up the components as I note a number of connecting posts on the side of the lathe. Thanks in anticipation of a reply.

Edited By William Smiles on 22/11/2010 17:13:51

Edited By Katy Purvis on 01/06/2015 12:00:58

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi William ,

 

the speed control is a special  5k linear potentiometer with a singl pole switch

that is closed when the control is fully anticlockwise (part of the interlock circuit)

this makes you start at minimum speed

 

on my version of the lathe

the forward/off/reverse switch is a 10A 250v    4 pole 3 way switch   , this is to stop you changing direction with the motor running

 

2 of the poles control the motor direction

the 3rd selects  the maximum speed  ,  reverse is about 50% of that  in forward

and the remaining pole is part of the power control interlock –

so the machine switches off as you change direction

 

 Machine Mart , Chester Machine Tools , Arc Euro Trade etc can supply the parts for the lathe

 but I don’t know if they sell the parts you require as a kit of parts

but little machine shop do (when its  in stock)

part number 3200  (the 230v version !)

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3200&category=1023914534

 

first you need to decide if your using the original FC250J/230v or later XMT2325

control board and test the motor just in case thats why the control is missing

 

do you have the manual ?

if not you can down load the latest version from MachineMart

or another version from little machine shop

 

I’ll have a look for a picture of inside the control box

 

    John

 

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Thanks you very much for the information John,

 

It is very helpful. Looking at  your lead to Little Machine Shop it is going to work out much cheaper going in this direction. I do not know how long they have been out of stock or how long they are likely to be out of stock, but the whole unit works out at less than £100. Of course there will be postage on top of that, but looking at the cost of the bits it looking like it would be much more expensive to build it myself and then there is always the chance that you make a mistake and blow other components.

 

By the way I do not know whether this makes the motor ok or not but it will turn if 12V DC (Car Battery) is applied to it, or is this just been naive?

 

I appreciate any photos of the inside as I still have to connect it up and have no prior information to work on.

 

Thanks for all your help so far.

 

Best wishes,

 

Bill.

Edited By William Smiles on 22/11/2010 18:59:37

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Have order the part from Little Machine as they actually had the part in stock, even though it was showing as out of stock. The cost in totally was approximately £110.00 that included postage and taxes. I am certain I would not have been able to buy the separate parts for less than this. So thank you very much for the information.

By the way I do not know whether this makes the motor ok or not but it will turn if 12V DC (Car Battery) is applied to it!!! or is this just been naive?

 

I appreciate any photos of the inside as I still have to connect the unit up and have no prior information to work on.

 

Thank you very much for all your help so far.

 

Best wishes,

 

Bill.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

just some pictures of the control box wiring

 

  (the first picture shows a later pcb than the board I have )

 

 

the motor running on 12v is a good sign

the brushes are about 14mm long when new

I’d expect to replace them at 7 or 8 mm

 

if you can look through the rear cover and check the commutator is still a copper colour

and not burnt black

 

ideally you need an insulation tester to check the insuation between the dc in wires and the motor body

 but its worth checking it reads open circuit with a multimeter

 

    John

 

 

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Thank you so much for the trouble you have gone to, to send me photos and all the information, I am very grateful. I now wait for the unit to arrive from the states. I have only just realize that the states electrical supply is 120V, will this mean the the PCB controller will need some component changes to work in this country or even worse that the unit will not work here at all? Or do they use some form of step up transformer in the states to make the lathe work?

 

I have just one other question that I cannot see from the photographs. Does the power chord hook onto the emergency stop button. From the circuit diagram it looks like it does, but the guy from the states said it hooks onto the main PCB board. If this is true I cannot see how. Look forward to your reply.

 

Kind regards,

 

Bill Smiles.

Edited By William Smiles on 23/11/2010 05:34:25

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Bill,

             I have noticed this morning (23/11/10) that someone is selling a control box for a Chester Conquest lathe on Ebay. I think this is the same as the CL300. It is faulty but could probably be repaired   The item number is 290503483892  It is a pity that you have already ordered one.

Les.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

just checking  did you order part number 3200    the 230v kit

 

or part number 3042  the 110v version ?

 

if you can stop the order and reorder the correct one

 

if you look at the boards the 9 large resistors along the edge of the board and 2 x 5w

resistors in the centre of the board  

determine  the voltage the board works on ( just need to confirm 24v relays are used on both boards) so it should be easy to convert the board if you had to

 

the LMS control board is pn 1336 for 110v and 2526 for 230v

(have a look at the picture in my post to Richard on 10/08/2010)

 

do you have the mains cable (124), motor cover (151) cable gland(152), protector(174)

(marchine mart part numbers HT300M151 HT300M152 , HT300M124 , HT300M174)

 

 

yes the mains cable connects directly to the red stop switch

a wire on the fuseholder and on interlock switch on the potentiometer

then plugs onto the switched mains side

 

 

 

 John

Edited By john swift 1 on 23/11/2010 10:40:49

Edited By john swift 1 on 23/11/2010 11:05:43

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

just an update

 

having had a close look a at my circuit and some info of the web

it looks like 2 or 3 surface mount resistor may need changing

 

this is were I need to have the circuit or a high resolution photo of a 110v board

to read the values of the surface mount resistors

 

still a viable plan B , if exchanging a 110v board is expensive

 

        John

 

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 23/11/2010 15:09:01

Edited By john swift 1 on 23/11/2010 15:10:27

[Robert Smith 10Participant @robertsmith10]

Thanks for the earlier reply …I’ve now ordered an XMT board from ArcEurotradde (on the basis I have a faulty one from when I originally purchased the lathe – so might be some spare part on there!)

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Thanks for the earlier reply and photos. I have checked with supplier and I have ordered the 240V board  (sigh of relief). I do not have any of the component you suggested only what you can see on the earlier picture. Will I need to order these?

 

I have not got the following components;      

 

Mains Cable  CL300M124, Cable Gland CL300M152, Protector CL300M174, Motor Cover CL300M151

 

Where would I order them? I only ask this because Clarke’s only carry the most common spares. Will I need to go back to the American Supplier? I assume I can easily make a mains cable and get hold of a cable gland from any electrical store!

 

The belt on the motor also feels very slack, is this normal or should I order one of these at the same time. Have not had a chance yet to check the brushes, do you know of a good place to order these?

 

Thanks for your continuing support.

 

Bill

Edited By William Smiles on 23/11/2010 18:00:57

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi Les,

 

Thanks for the information about the second hand controller. I have already order one but have put a bid in anyway, if I can repair it it would be a useful spare.

 

Kind regards,

 

Bill.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

had a quick look at the Arc Euro Trade’s C3 spares 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-Spares

 

 and found the brushes (£3.50) and belt (£5)  ,  the cover is out of stock

 

little machine shop has more

 

 

http://lmscnc.com/1686
http://lmscnc.com/1312
http://lmscnc.com/2686
http://lmscnc.com/1331
http://lmscnc.com/1105

 

 

check the LMS cover  is 170mm x 95mm x 50mm

 

 the only cable gland I’ve found is Maplin’s JZ43W

you just need some thing to protect the cable from

 the clamp and the edge of the exit hole in the cover

 

the belt may just need adjusting

its not easy – you will end up doing it a few times at first

 

two studs pass through the slots in the bed to hold the motor in place

and the two grub screws push on the motor body to give a small

vertical adjustment

 

eg by screwing the top screw in and the bottom screw out

the motor will be deflected down to tighten the belt

 

                        John

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 23/11/2010 20:04:36

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Thanks again for all your hard work and effort, would never have been able to do it without you. I have now ordered everything except the cable gland and the mains cable but I am sure I can make do with what I have in my workshop for both these items. I will now have to wait until they are delivered from the USA before I can proceed any further but I am pretty sure I will need to call upon your skills again. I have put a bid in on E-Bay for a second hand complete controller box that states that the PCB controller has something wrong with it. If I win the item I will try and repair it from the information you give in your earlier posts, but might need to contact you again if things do not work out. Just one further question relating to the photograph showing the protector component. This photograph shows approx 8 wires, as far as I can see with my lathe  there will be the motor wires (3 inclusive of earth), the mains cable  (3 inclusive of earth), so where are the other two wires coming from????

 

Cannot thank you enough.

 

Kind regards,

 

Bill.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

the extra 2 blue wires that go into the headstock go to a microswitch

on the chuck guard

 

this switch is not fitted on our version of the lathe

the photo was the best I could find to show the protector in position

 

the only manual for the lathe to download from machine mart  is for the latest version

( I have a pdf copy of your manual )

 

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/download/cl300m.pdf

 

the main change is the use of the xmt2325 control pcb

 

                  John

Edited By john swift 1 on 23/11/2010 22:25:58

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Thanks for the info, I am pleased that there is nothing else missing. I now await the delivery of the parts and will contact you then for further assistance.

 

Best wishes,

 

Bill

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

I have now received the controller and box etc. I was a little surprised as I expected it to come as an assembled unit, but it arrived as a kit which has to be built up. I have been working on the circuit drawings and using your photo’s as a guide. Just one thing, it looks like you have an earth wire attached to the Forward Reverse switch. Is this correct? I assume it is connected to the main body via the nut that secures it to the control box. Again is this correct? Are there any other earthing wires which I need to attach? I have the one for the motor and the mains cable! Thanks for your ongoing support.

 

Best wishes,

 

Bill.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

thats good , only taken a week at this time of the year

 

because the box is plastic

a short wire connects the switch body to one of four  earth points on the head stock

in addition to  the motor , and mains cable earth

 

on your picture you will see four screws with  star washers to secure the earth wiring

( only three used )

 

I expect the one earth wire  in your  picture is from the motor body

the motor cable and mains cable passes through the same hole the the bed

the plastic protector stops the wires being damaged by the leadscew

 

 four counter sink screws ( m5 x 10mm ) are just used  for fastening the control box to the headstock and bed – don’t over tighten , you could split the plastic !

 

did you download the manual ?

 

 John

 

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Thanks again for the information. Are the screws on the motor box the same (Counter sink screws M5 x 10mm) or are they different? The screws for the motor control box are actually there but the motor box screws are not. Do you also know what screws are used to attach the PCB Board to the plactic body (size and type) and the screw size of the ones that attach the emergency buttons, both to the box and hold the unit together? Would have thought they might have included these with the kit, along with a potentiometer knob, but these were not included or at least not in my package. Still waiting for the second package, which includes the wire protector and motor box, but given the weather conditions today (over two foot of snow on the ground and it still continues) it might yet be a few days before they can deliver it. Yes have downloaded the manual.

 

You are correct the earth wire was from the motor, but was not connected at either side. I have made up a mains lead, which is ready to connect but I will need to wait until all the parts have arrived before I can do this properly. Have you any advice on the wire size and type used for the connections to switch(FOR), emergency switch, potentiometer and PCB Controller? Any information will be helpful. Thanks again for the great info already supplied.

 

Best wishes,

 

Bill.

Edited By William Smiles on 01/12/2010 16:17:03

Edited By William Smiles on 01/12/2010 16:20:22

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bill ,

 

 

 the motor cover is held by the same type of screws as the rear splash guard – M5 x 8 pan head

 

 the screws attaching  the pcb as far as i can tell are

  no 4  self tapping screws   3mm dia x 6.5mm

 

the  4  for the pcb cover are no5 self tapping screws     3.7mm dia x 8mm

 

i’ve not found any supplier for small quantities (10) 

try Machinemart first

 

( chipboard screws are the nearest but with counter sink heads

add a washer to  protect the pcb  

 

the mains cable is 3 core 6A  ~ 6.5 mm dia

most of the wiring can be

Maplin   black  6A  equipment wire   KR31J       24/0.2

 

use eyelet   JH62S for connections  to earth on the headstock

     spade     JH64U for pcb terminals 1 to 7

lucar f/m      HF10L  for connection to the emergency stop

lucar boot    FE65V  for 1/4″ connector HF10L

fuse holder boot FT35Q extra insulation not on original 

just ensure the LIVE connection is to REAR terminal and not the side terminal

( if you remove a good fuse with the power on , you could get a shock if 

you have  it the wrong way round ) 

 

 wires P1 to P4   can be connected with wire like    3A  equipment    FA36P    16/0.2 

 

the motor wires have as smaller f/m lucar terminal to fit the terminals

on the forward /reverse switch  –  4.8mm  N35CY

add cable markers to make it easy to identifiy the cables

 

if you don’t have one

the plastic cover for the pcb is    133mm x 114 mm  , 0.2 mm thick

 

i made an extra  one , about 25mm longer , with the extra bit bent at right angle to

make contact with the headstock

 

hope this helps

 

    John

Edited By john swift 1 on 03/12/2010 00:20:31

Edited By john swift 1 on 03/12/2010 00:21:52

[William SmilesParticipant @williamsmiles10916]

Hi John,

 

Thanks again for the incredible detailed and useful information you have supplied. Once I have the components I will be able to assemble. Just one thing I was unsure about. You meantion a PCB shield, which certainly did not come with the kit. If the shield is over the PCB board would it not require pillars to make it stand off from the PCB Components. Having just looked at the box I now assume that the four plastic pillar posts within the controller box are what the PCB Shield attaches to and I can now see why the 25mm would make it touch the headstock. It still surprises me that they sell a kit which does not contain all the components required to build the complete box. I assume the shield would be okay in perspex. I have not got a heat srip to bend the plastic but I am sure I can rig something up. Again thanks for your invaluable advice and support.

 

Regards,

 

Bill.

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

Hi guys

 

Is there an easy way to change or put on a new drive belt on a Clarke cl300m lathe without taking it to bits ,or am i missing something

 

regards

 

Daryl

[Author]

Posts