speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe

[Richard EdmondsParticipant @richardedmonds33836]

Well Gents it would seem that I am in your debt. Contact with you lads has saved me probably £119.82 in the price of an 18 pence capacitor from Maplin. I realise exactly now what has been said about the various other connections within the control unit. and now realise why a £350.00 lathe is 350 quid. Had a hell of a job making all the cheap connectors work so will change them all later for some proper ones. So really chaps thanks again I am so very grateful for your excellent help

 

Regards

Richard

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Richard ,

                    Its good to see your lathe is working

It’s a good feeling isn’t it , when you fix some thing

You will find  capacitors are the cause of many of the faults in equipment that runs hot

about 90% of the lcd monitors I have repaired needed only 4 new capacitors

a life of upto 2000 hours at 105 C is not very long some times !!

 

             John

[Richard EdmondsParticipant @richardedmonds33836]

Hi John

Yes it does feel good to repair something for a change. However thanks to you because without your input I would not have a clue as to what was wrong. Maybe I should learn though as that info would probably save me hundreds when the boiler packs up or any other machine does as well

Thanks again John

Regards

Richard

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

Hi Guys im very new to this site . I have a problem with my CL300M lathe and am wondering if anyone can help . I burnt the motor out and there was a bang from somewhere in the control box when it went , I have replaced the motor with a new one from Clarke only to find i have no speed control at all  its full speed or nothing ,Clarke advise the PCB has also gone and on reading all the posts relevent i see some of you guys are very clued up on this subject . Can anyone advise what to look for and how to test this board as Clarke want another £85.00 for a new board which seems outrageous as i have already spent £127 on the motor

 

thanks in advance

 

Daryl 

[Michael Cox 1Participant @michaelcox1]

Hi Daryl,

I have a Clarke CL300M lathe. The spead control board on mine is type FC250J. This is printed on the board. ArcEurotrade are selling this board at £60 – see http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk

Unfortunately they are currently out of stock but it maybe worth enquiring when more is due. They are a very good and reliable outfit in my experience.

Mike

[Pat BraveryParticipant @patbravery]

If you are OK with a small soldering iron you can change the mosfets IRFP450 two off and see if that fixes the problem, it worked for me, they are very cheap through ebay, I paid about £6 for the pair. My 300cl had the same symptoms and it has been fine since. Let us know how you get on, forgot to say that mine is a FC250J board. regards Pat

Edited By Patrick Bravery on 17/09/2010 22:42:40

Edited By Patrick Bravery on 17/09/2010 22:43:29

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Daryl ,

 

if the control pcb is a FC250 J type old or new version

( have seen one version of the sieg C3 lathe using a xtm…type of controller

the control panel has a amber overload light ) 

 

first check the resistance of the two fet’s on the heat sink

 

the resistance across the out side leads should be 50 000 ohms ( the two 100k resistors connected to the gate and source )

all other combinations over 1 000 000 ohms

 

if one is short circuit replace both with  IRFP450 (eg RS components pn 541-0058 @£3-34)

 

if the fets are ok  , check the speed control

the voltage between terminals p3 and p2 varies from 0 volts at minimum speed to

+12v at maximum

 

 even with a faulty speed control potentiometer that gives you maximum speed all the time

the output should drop when you switch from forward to reverse — do this test with a 60 or 100w gls bulb instead of your new motor !

 

 

          John Swift

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 17/09/2010 23:44:36

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

Thanks guys do you have a picture of the relevent parts to try changing,soldering is no problem if i can identify the parts to change 

 

regards

 

Daryl

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

Hi Guys is it worth trying the speed control switch first as mine has no control at all and even works in the off position . The only on off switch now is the forward and reverse switch in the middle position . I have several speed switches of varying types  from mig welders so can i use one of these to test it ,  As your probably aware now i really dont have a clue what all the bits are called which is the reason for asking so please bear with me guys

 

regards

 

Daryl

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Daryl ,

               hope the photo’s help

 

 

the resistance between the gate and source terminals is 50K

all other combinations over 1m0  ( virtually open circuit )

 

you can test the board to some extent with out a speed control potentiometer

 

you can fit wire links for min speed , half speed ( rev full speed ) and  maximum speed

 

p2 + p3 ,  or    p1 + p2       or      p1 + p2 +p4

 

 

 remember all the pcb is live ! and use a tungsten lamp as a load , not the motor

 

       john

 

 

ps        on later the version of the pcb all the terminals are in line on one end of the pcb

 

            and the fet are IRFP450’s

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 18/09/2010 14:55:25

Edited By john swift 1 on 18/09/2010 15:18:33

Edited By john swift 1 on 18/09/2010 15:23:13

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

Hi John the last picture of your post ,is this the old pcb or the later one as this board is the same as mine . The reason i ask is that Clarke sent me pictures showing this as the old type board,so now confused

 

regards

 

Daryl 

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Daryl ,

                the last picture is the later version with the surface mount components

the other pictures are of my old control board

 

 

the FET’s you need to check are on the heatsink , on the left

 

  if you disconnect the 5 wires from terminals P 1 to P4    ( the blue connector)

and link P2 and P3 the motor should run at the minimum speed unless the FET’s are short circuit 

 

 

connect a test lamp to terminals DC1 and DC2 instead of the motor

until you have fixed the fault

applying full power to the motor with out starting from minimum could damage it

 

 

     John

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Daryl ,

               I’ve just had a look at the CL300M lathe on the machine mart site

 

the new manual shows the speed control pcb is XMT-2325 !

(arceurotrade has a picture of it in the C3 spares)

the XMT…. series of controller have been used on the milling machines for some time

 

that explains the confusion  

 

this newer type of controller uses two thyristors and three diodes on five small heatsinks

 instead of two fet’s on a large heatsink and a bridge rectifier used on the FC250J control

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 18/09/2010 20:48:10

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

   Thanks John and all you other guys ,been a great help

[robert glover 1Participant @robertglover1]

HI’ all I am new to this site and wonder’ if someone can help me ‘ I have had a short caused by rain water ‘ and have blown  my SMD-FC250J circuit board it’s that bad’ part of the tracking has gone’ and I am not sure what the missing part should look like’ it’s missing the part on the rear face under the DC1 DC2 connections. Anyone have a photo of the back of the board so i can repair it? I know it may not be worth the effort but I would at least like to try’ as the conponets that you would think should have gone seem to be ok.  THANKS A LOT Bob.

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bob ,

 

do you have a picture of the damage ?

                   

hope this helps

 

 

check the bridge rectifier and fets are ok

and the pcb is not burnt between terminals dc2 and ac3

 

for initial tests wire a 60W or 100W gls bulb in series with the fuse

and a 15W pigmy bulb in place of the motor

 

( the 60 / 100W bulb will limit any fault current if any short circuit still exists

the 15w bulb is just a load / indicator )

 

 

      John

[robert glover 1Participant @robertglover1]

HI john thanks for reply’and photo’ but it does not look like mine? are there 2 types? see photos.   The board went with hell of a POP   but did not blow the bridge rectifier or the motor’ I have had the motor tested by my nephew who works for a rewind company and it’s OK’ and I have sort off figured out the component side of the CB there is a bit of L shaped tracking missing between DC2 and the rectifier leg’ also there is a capacitor next door to the rectifier; do you know it’s value?. I have repaired the hole since the photos  John don’t know whats gone wrong with photos they seem to have got lost must have done something wrong? they only place they show up is in albums? 

‘ so any MODS and NEW tracking will need to be done on the back of the CB’ if I can find out what it looks like. PS.  I took the rectifier out for a better photo.  Can anyone help with a photo. THANKS AGAIN JOHN regards Bob.

Edited By robert glover 1 on 17/11/2010 20:06:52

Edited By robert glover 1 on 17/11/2010 20:13:36

Edited By robert glover 1 on 17/11/2010 20:31:03

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Bob ,

your board must be the first version of the SMT boards

the circuit should the same as the old board I traced at the begining of the year

 

the missing capacitor is 47nF 275v and connects across terminals DC1 and DC2

the 0R33 10W resistor on the circuit for  my old board

 is 2x 0R66 5W in parallel on the SMT boards ( electrically the same)

 

the pcb picture I had is for a later version with the smaller 4 pin opto isolaters

replacing the 6pin (white) ones on your board

plus a simple circuit mod  to limit the rate of speed increase if you turn the speed control  rapidly to maximum

 

so I’ve made some notes on your pictures

I think I’ve worked out the missing print ?

 

 

 good luck

   John

[robert glover 1Participant @robertglover1]

  HI’ john thanks a lot for taking the time to do the mods on the photos’  BRILLIANT work’   up to now I have got as far as repairing the hole and replacing the missing  L  shaped tracking on the component side of board’  it looks quite good.   I used a thin piece of copper sheet’   I would have posted a photo’   to let you see how I did it’  as the idea may come in handy sometime’   but being new to this site’  I dont want to make a hash of it’  as I seem to have done last time.   What I could do with is some kind soul to do me a walk through on how to post PHOTOS’ as I am fairly new to computers.    MANY THANKS AGAIN FOR THE TIME YOU MUST HAVE TAKEN’  REGARDS   Bob.     

[Daryl HeasmanParticipant @darylheasman56468]

Hi John got my pcb all done and it worked a treat surprisingly for me ,then things went wrong . The new motor i purchased from Clarke threw a wobbly and started to arc which took out the control board again . Next morning i was straight on to Clarkes who the following day (thursday) picked  up  the motor and complete control box  ,the motor was covered by warranty the  box was not but i sent a list of events as they happened and the following monday they arrived back with another new motor and a new pcb fitted to control box all foc ,so there is someone there with a heart and now everything is perfect with the lathe

 

regards

 

Daryl  

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Daryl,

 

glad to see you got there in the end 

 

success repairing the old board ,always makes you feel good

and after the  setback ,

 a 2nd new motor and control board in the end

 

what a result one happy customer

 

 

Regards

 

  John

[Robert Smith 10Participant @robertsmith10]

Hi guys….found this thread via Google,

 

I bought a sieg c2-300 off Ebay a while back – the motor board was blown so I slapped a Danfoss S-1000 scr board in – it worked fine.

 

Unfortunately it eventually went bang ….I had a go at fixing it, but without the schematic it’s a big time sump….I’m throwing in the towel & now want to buy a new board…..ArcEurotrade have two boards for the C2-300 lsted….

 

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C2-Mini-Lathe-Spares

 

an FC250J & an XMT2325

 

iIs there pros & cons here (performance, reliabilty, fixabilty wise)….because I don’t know which one to get!

 

Many thanks,

Rob

[john swift 1Participant @johnswift1]

Hi Rob ,

I’ve only worked on the FC250J controller

but I understand the the XMT…  type of controller cuts out if you overload the motor

and will provide greater motor protection

 

most of the component  damage due to  a faulty or stalled motor

 I would expect to be :-

 1)  short circuit fets and/or bridge rectifier on the FC250j or

 2)  short circuit thyristors and/or high current diodes on the XMT2325

all easy to replace and not too expensive

 

after a few years the FC250J board do have a problem with some of the electrolytic capacitors but they are easy to replace , unlike the surface mount components

 used  on both boards

 

if you want to be able to repair the board

 the choice may depend on you having the circuit diagram and non of the components being difficult to obtain  

I’m not sure of the pulse transformer on the XTM2325 board for example

 

        John

 

Edited By john swift 1 on 20/11/2010 00:38:22

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Wouldn’t it be nice if you could just buy a lathe where you didn’t have to do all this?

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi,

            Posted by Chris Trice 20/11/2010 01:14:10

            Wouldn’t it be nice if you could just buy a lathe where you didn’t have to do all this?

 

      An old cliché or two springs to mind; you get owt for nowt, advantage/disanvantage, everthing has a cost.

Simpler things are somtimes better.

 

Regards Nick

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