Smart Brown model A Mk 1 taper attachment

[Ricky WinwoodParticipant @rickywinwood47403]

Hi can any one tell me how to release the cross slide screw/ nut on above soi can use the taper attachment? I have removed the small screw behind the tool post but no joy, so replaced it. It’s got me stumped. Thanks Ricky

[Ricky WinwoodParticipant @rickywinwood47403]

Taper attachment

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

You first run the cross slide towards you until it stops, and back off 1/8". Holding the wheel, you slacken off the nut in the centre, and then use a hex socket to unscrew the centre part taking the nut with it. The handwheel should be uncoupled from the leadscrew and the cross slide can be pushed away from you.

 By the way, welcome to the forum.

Edited By old mart on 14/08/2022 17:17:43

[Ricky WinwoodParticipant @rickywinwood47403]

Thanks appreciate your advice. Thanks Ricky

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Not much room round the nut so you need a box (tube to the Americans) spanner.

My 1024 VSL uses teh same system and I found a short plug spanner with welded on arm saved from a mower tool kit many years ago did the deed just fine. Ex Hayter self porpelled with Briggs & Startt engine early 1970's vintage I think.

Clive

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

When you have finished the taper turning, pull the cross slide back towards you until it stops (should be back in the same position that it was when uncoupled) screw in the centre plug until it bottoms making sure that the nut is backed off enough not to touch, and then tighten the nut. They do not have to be very tight. The leadscrew should then be back working. I just use a cranked ring spanner on the nut and tighten until you cannot stop the wheel slipping in the fingers.

The choice of holes in the end of the cross slide is the nearest for internal and the rear one for external. The tool height is critical for tapers, it must be exactly on the centre line, or the tapers won't be straight. The whole taper turning attachment is held on the rear of the lathe bed by tee bolts and can be moved left and right to get the taper turning lined up with the workpiece. If you want to copy something critical like a Morse taper. you will need to fix a DTI to the toolpost, preferably the finger type and run it along the centreline of the same size MT set true in the chuck to fine adjust the taper. With that you need to be within a few seconds of arc which is far finer than the scale on the taper turning attachment.

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