similar alloy to 6061 T6 aluminium

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similar alloy to 6061 T6 aluminium

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  • #73232
    pgrbff
    Participant
      @pgrbff

      I’m looking for a small piece of 6mm or 1/4″ 6061 T6 or similar Aluminium plate. Can anyone suggest a similar alloy that may be easier to find? This may be totally over the top, but I know the original part was manufactured in 6061.

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      #29444
      pgrbff
      Participant
        @pgrbff
        #73233
        macmarch
        Participant
          @macmarch
          Hi there,
           
          If you are wanting this for a specific purpose like aerospace or highly stressed parts then 6061 is the job but 6082 (HE30) is the commercial preference. If its only a small peice then pm me.
          ray
          #73234
          pgrbff
          Participant
            @pgrbff

            It will be less than 100mm x 100mm, final piece is approx 60×70. What temper would the 6082 be? Or maybe that is a silly question? I’m very new to this.

            #73240
            JasonB
            Moderator
              @jasonb
              HE 30 will be fine for your model helicopter and its easy to work, most of the model engineering suppliers wil have it or just find your nearest non ferrous metal stockholders.
               
              J
              #73258
              macmarch
              Participant
                @macmarch
                HE30 will normally be supplied as T6.
                 
                ray
                #73261
                pgrbff
                Participant
                  @pgrbff
                  Thanks I managed to find and order some today. Now all I have to do is find someone to machine it, I think this is beyond me with a friends mill.
                   
                  #73262
                  pgrbff
                  Participant
                    @pgrbff
                    Thanks I managed to find and order some today. Now all I have to do is find someone to machine it, I think this is beyond me with a friends mill.
                     
                    #73263
                    JasonB
                    Moderator
                      @jasonb
                      Stick a bit of perspex or even MDF in his mill and have a practice, post a pic of what you are trying to make if you need any pointers.
                       
                      J
                      #73264
                      pgrbff
                      Participant
                        @pgrbff
                        I have cut carbon sheet on the mill, but all by eye, drawing on masking tape stuck to the carbon. This is a lot more ambitious. I have actually paid for the part already, and I’ve been told two have been posted to me, but I haven’t received either. The person who made the simulation, and posted it to youtube, has not answered any of my emails, the person he made them for is the one I have paid.
                         
                         
                        The part is approximately 60mm x 60mm
                         

                        Edited By pgrbff on 12/08/2011 20:19:40

                        #73265
                        JasonB
                        Moderator
                          @jasonb
                          If you made the lightening cutout just a rectangular shape it would be a relatively simple part to make.
                           
                          A bit of trigonometry to get the mounting hole positions as they seem to be angled will be needed or if he has a DRO then they are just two sets of four holes on a PCD starting with teh first hole at whatever angle it is looks like about 5-10deg, 50-55 deg for the second set of four.
                           
                          The central hole can just be bored, does not need to be milled like the simulation.
                           
                          Also I note you asked about 6mm plate, judjing by the M4 holes in the sides I would say its more like 12mm thick.
                           
                          J
                          #73266
                          pgrbff
                          Participant
                            @pgrbff
                            I had another look after I posted and ordered 12mm plate.
                            I only need two of the four holes, 30mm centres but position is relatively unimportant, they need to be spot on 30mm apart and 15mm from centre of plate. The plate is a motor mounting plate, the two holes fix it to the motor. The central hole will have to be approximatel 20mm.
                            It needs to be as light as possible so it is milling out the central portion that concerns me most.
                            My friend has a vice that rotates? Not sure what it is called. It’s all the imperial measuring that worries me! Give me metric any day.
                            All the horixontal and vertical movement on the mill are manual, can’t remember the make but it’s big, 2m+ high, and 1950s American.
                            The holes on the side secure the plate between the frames and shouldn’t be too difficult.
                            #73281
                            JasonB
                            Moderator
                              @jasonb
                              1. The imperial metric thing is not too difficult, just convert the metric to decimal imperial measurements and then you are working in a similar format. eg 30.0mm will be 1.181″ so thats 0.591″ either side of centre. Just allow for any backlash.
                               
                              2. As the central hole is just a clearance one it could be drilled out working through the sizes and assuming your friend has some large drill bits then a 7/8″ (approx 22mm) may do better if he has 13/16″ (20.6mm) . If he does not have large bits then a boring head could be used or even put it in the 4jaw chuck on teh lathe.
                               
                              3. The lightening cuts could be done with the main area as a rectangle like I said above. Then if you want to loose a bit more either cut two semi-circles out with a boring head or just do a couple of smaller rectangular indents. I’ll add a sketch to my album later.
                               
                              J
                               
                              PS its probably a Bridgeport Mill.
                               
                              #73282
                              pgrbff
                              Participant
                                @pgrbff
                                It is a Bridgeport. I might have a go, I’m just concerned about the accuracy and wastingtoo much time.
                                 
                                #73285
                                JasonB
                                Moderator
                                  @jasonb
                                  As the mount looks like it can slide into mesh then it would not matter if the two motor mounting holes were a bit off to one side. Its just getting the 4 holes in the sides level so the motor is not tilted that matters, the lightening cuts can almost be done freehand, certainly 0.5mm either way won’t affect performance.
                                   
                                  Anyway here is how it could be done.
                                   
                                  Top sketch is using say a 1/4″ cutter to do the lightening pockets once the main material has been removed from the block with a larger cutter
                                   
                                  Second shows how it could be done with a 1″ cutter or boring head.
                                   

                                  And for those that have not looked at the video this is what hes after

                                   
                                   

                                  Edited By JasonB on 13/08/2011 08:26:12

                                  #73289
                                  pgrbff
                                  Participant
                                    @pgrbff
                                    Thanks for all your help.
                                    How does one get the four mounting holes in the same plane? Do you simply flip the piece over in the vice? Or is there a more elegant way of doing it? Do you tap them by hand out of the mill?
                                    I have bought some small cutters myself to cut carbon plate, but I’m not sure what size would be best to do the lightening work, and how much of a ‘bite’ I should take with each cut. What size would the “larger cutter” be? I would not be in a hurry and would prefer a cleaner finish than a rushed job.
                                    My friend has what I can only describe as a turntable, quite large and heavy, which can be mounted on the bed. It is not a simple vice but designed to do circular milling. Would this be a better option for cutting the centre hole and motor mounting holes, and then the circular lightening work?
                                    If I were to buy two end mills to do this, what would I buy to get the bulk of the work done?
                                    #73302
                                    JasonB
                                    Moderator
                                      @jasonb
                                      Yes, to keep all the holes in the same plane you first ensure the fixed vice jaw is parallel to the mill access with a dial indicator. Set say the bottom face of the work against the fixed vice jaw, then turn it 180deg to do the other holes keeping the same bottom face against the fixed jaw
                                       
                                      Although the Bridgeport has the ability to take the metal out with one cutter the full width if you are buying two cutters then 6mm and 12mm will come in useful but as its mostly RC work you are doing then 5mm and 10mm may be the better option.
                                       
                                      Assuming there is about 30mm width to come out the middle then 3 passes of your 10mm cutter at 2mm deep each pass should be fine, use a bit of utting fluid – parrafin or WD40 will be OK on alloy
                                       
                                      The thing you describe is a rotary table, could be used to do the two semi-circles. Set the RT axis true to the mill spindle, clamp the work to the table with one of the mounting holes aligned on teh axis. Then you can use your 10mm cutter to forn the semi-circle.
                                       
                                      Take a look at this thread by John (Bogstandard) the first couple of pages detail how to set up your machine, make your block of metal true and then how to machine it.
                                       
                                      For tapping I would suggest drilling the 3.3mm hole and then without moving the mill take take your tap with the tap wrench gripping it half way down and place that in the chuck but don’t fully tighten, just enough to hold the tap true, you can then cut the thread without risk of the tap going off at an angle (DO NOT USE POWER) This also helps prevent a snapped tap as the tap wrench will rotate before the tap jams and breaks
                                       
                                      J
                                      #73303
                                      pgrbff
                                      Participant
                                        @pgrbff
                                        Thank you for taking so much time to answer my questions. I now have 2 parts to make!
                                        I’ll have a look at the threads you suggest and I’m sure I’ll have more questions.
                                        Are there many options when buying the end mills? I’m used to buying router cutters and there must be similar options with end mills, number of cutting faces, spiral?
                                        #73314
                                        JasonB
                                        Moderator
                                          @jasonb
                                          Far more options than with router bits.
                                           
                                          If you can wait a week to 10days then I use a supplier in Hong Kong that does end mills and slot drills at very good prices that are fine for general use. For critical stuff I use Hertel or Dormer from J&L (look through the virtual catalogue)
                                           
                                          As you can see from here the HK cutters are very good value, 4 flute will be the most used but at that price you may as well get a couple of 2-flute as well as they can be used for plunge cuts.
                                           
                                          Jason
                                           
                                          PS before you rush out to buy metric cutters make sure your friend has uitable holders, he may only have imperial!!
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