sievert gas torch

[Joe McKeanParticipant @joemckean81940]

I have just purchased a sievert gas torch kit which came with an adjustable gas regulator with a view to trying my hand at silver soldering.

My question is how do you set the regulator which is variable between 0.5 – 4 bar when there is no gauge or other markings to suggest what pressure you have, all you have is a knob on top marked increase / decrease.

Any help would be very much appreciated as my other half is getting very anxious at the thought of me experimenting with it.

Joe

[Joe McKeanParticipant @joemckean81940]

[Simon Williams 3Participant @simonwilliams3]

Experiment away, it doesn't really matter. So long as you have enough gas to be able to light it and get a nice stable flame you're on a winner. It's not going to go bang.

Screw the adjuster on the regulator in half way or thereabouts, light the flame keeping your fingers out of the way. Now vary the torch control and see the difference between not much and Crikey!

Twiddling the regulator at the bottle only really affects the magnitude of the "Crikey (that's hot)" setting – otherwise the control at the torch handle throttles the amount of gas reaching the nozzle, So the regulator acts mostly as a maximum control.

The thing that really affects how much heat you get is the size of the burner nozzle. Which burner have you started with? There will be a four digit number (e.g. 2942) marked on the side of it. This describes the size of the burner orifice jet and hence the amount of gas it can pass.

HTH Simon

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Have you looked at it from the side, many have a series of lines which show the bar, hard to see on some like this one where they are between th eknob and octagonal part.

[Joe McKeanParticipant @joemckean81940]

Jason no marks on the reg at all apart from the increase decrease on top.

Simon thanks for the explanation on how it all works will do as you suggest and screw the reg half way in and experiment from there.

Thanks to you both

Joe

[Keith HaleParticipant @keithhale68713]

Hi Joe,

Any more information on the regulator?

I've not seen one like this supplied in a Sievert kit. (But I have been out of the front line for some time now!) Is it a case of buying a Sievert torch (good call!) and then getting a regulator?

What size burner have you got? As Simon says the number is stamped on the side and will determine the necessary pressure..

Not all burners will run at 4 bar. Some are designed to run at 2 bar and trying to run them at the higher pressure is going to be, at best, counterproductive. At worst, the flame will be extinguished and you start to fill your workshop with propane!

Alternatively, trying to reduce the heating by running the burner at too low a pressure, will cause incomplete combustion within the nozzle and block the injector with a carbon deposit.

I am unable to offer any further help and as in all such cases, I would refer you to your regulator supplier.

Your burner selection will depend on what you will be attempting to silver solder, the material, the size and design of the joints, required heating rate and the filler metal being used.

Regards

Keith

[old AlParticipant @oldal]

Set it about 1/2 way to start and leave it like that unless you dont get the umph you need with your biggest nozzle. They are very crude things, almost an on/off device. You have your fine control on the gun

[old AlParticipant @oldal]

Oh, and turn it off at the end of play. mine leaks if i dont

[Joe McKeanParticipant @joemckean81940]

Hi Keith

I bought the torch as a kit and the regulator is a Continental model 460 and the burner is a 2941

I just need to get some flux and silver solder to practice with, any idea what is the best flux and gauge of silver solder for a beginner to start with and where to get it.

Thanks

Joe

[Keith HaleParticipant @keithhale68713]

Hi Joe

Get a starter pack which includes some low temperature alloy in 1.0 and 1.5mm rod. Also includes some notes to set you on the way to successful silver soldering.

Practice on some copper or brass.

Any difficulties, ring us for the best possible technical help available. At the last count there was in excess of 120 experience to draw on.

You are not alone 👍

Keith

[Joe McKeanParticipant @joemckean81940]

Advice taken Keith, have placed an order for the starter pack.

Thanks

Joe

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Hi Joe

Is this the regulator you have.

If so I have the same as you including the torch.

Like you I'm unsure about how to set it up so please keep posting I'll be very interested in your observations and any further help you get.

Hi old al

When you said turn it off at the end of play is that done using the regulator or with a separate in line valve which is screwed into the gas bottle?

Geoff

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Joe forgot the picture??????

Here it is

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

I got the same regulator as Geoff shows with a Sievert kit from Hamilton Gas Products (sorry Keith!). The kit came with a 7.7kW 2941 burner:

Worst that happened was was that yellow flames shot out of the air intake slots when I had the regulator pressure set too low. What I do now is open the torch valve fully, crank up the regulator until the flame is nice and roary (but not blowing itself out) then throttle back on the torch valve. Seems to work!

Rob.

[doubletopParticipant @doubletop]

This is the Sievert regulator. The write up says " Certain Pro 86/88 burners, such as cyclone burners and most Promatic burners, require a steady pressure of 2 bar to ensure best performance. Other burners can also operate under high pressure, but it is an advantage to be able to stabilise and obtain the same pressure on both warm and cold days. The pressure in an LP-gas cylinder varies with temperature. If the gas output is high, the gas cylinder will be cooled down and the pressure will drop. "

[Anthony KnightsParticipant @anthonyknights16741]

When finished, I always turn the gas off using the valve on the top of the cylinder.

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Hi All,

I recently got rid of the two or three gas torches that I had from old tool lots having never had much success silver soldering, Could never seem to get enough heat into the jobs even though they were usually quite small jobs.

Spent what I got for those on a new Sievert kit and couple of different nozzles from CUP Alloys and have never looked back, now soldering is a real pleasure and I use the smaller nozzles for heating to free off parts etc.

Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer.

Cheers, Martin

[Keith HaleParticipant @keithhale68713]

Thanks Martin

And the advice from other suppliers?

You get more than just the product from CuP Alloys. We aim to give what you want- sound joints. The torch and filler metals are only the means to an end. Understanding what you need to do with them and how is just as important.

Customer service at CuP does not end as your package is despatched.

As our many customers may confirm.

Keith

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

When finished, I always turn the gas off using the valve on the top of the cylinder.

Hi Anthony

So you have a valve, like in the photo below screwed into bottle and the regulator screws into the tee.?

Is it correct to say the regulator should NEVER be screwed directly into the bottle. Always via a valve?

Geoff

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I would have said so, don't know if screwing the stop valve off the bottle would loose all your gas. Like Anthony I turn off by the bottle valve and seldom tough the regulator.

Geoff, if you really want to know what pressure you are running at that Continental ( good UK maker) regulator has a plug at the side that can be replaced with a gauge

[Simon Williams 3Participant @simonwilliams3]

Things will get very exciting very quickly indeed if you manage to remove the right angled valve directly on top of the cylinder, shown in Geoff Walker's post above. It would be prudent to review your life insurance before trying.

The regulator the OP has pictured – and the similar one also shown – all have a 5/8 BSP LEFT HAND thread which screws into the female outlet of the right angled valve on top of the propane bottle. The valve is intended to be a simple on/off valve so the gas bottle can be isolated safely for transport etc.

Always close the bottle valve after using the system, or leaving it unattended. It's the ONLY valve in the system which will function as an isolating valve preventing leakage or gas escape. Neither the regulator nor the control valve on the torch are specified for this essential function.

Inspect the hose regularly – it will be fine to begin with but will de-grade relatively quickly. Budget on replacing it every five years whether it leaks or no.

BOC insist that regulators for oxy-acetylene only have a five year (from date of manufacture) service life and are disposable – at several hundred quid a kick. I don't know what the manufacturers recommendations for these regulators is but I would imagine it's much the same.

In the same vein as "never leave the chuck key in the chuck" never try to remove that right angled valve from the top of the cylinder. You won't succeed (they're TIGHT) and if you do…

May the Good Lord have mercy on your soul.

Stay safe

Simon

[geoff walker 1Participant @geoffwalker1]

Jason thanks for reply,

My main concern was safety, I would be quite happy to experiment with the regulator to get a good flame. My concern was that it appeared that people used the regulator to close or isolate the gas supply, which to me seemed unwise.

Reading Simon's post above it would appear that gas cylinders are supplied with an on/off valve fitted which makes sense to me. Presumably they are blanked off at the time of purchase?

Geoff

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

With a screw in plastic plug.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

The screw-in plastic plug is not there as any form of isolation.

It is there to protect the threads and mating surface for the outlet pipe/regulator when in use by the user. Nothing more.

Some people on this thread seem to be limited in knowledge of propane/butane bottles. Flammability of the gas is the greatest danger with these. Explosive flammability.

Now consider a real gas bottle which may be pressurised to 200Bar, perhaps more, not the usual 20Bar that a propane bottle might need to cope with….

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Don't forget that LPG is heavier than air (boat bilges etc). Do not use it in a cellar for example.

[Author]

Posts