It might be an idea to drill a few small (circa 12 mm ) holes right at the bottom of the outer steel walls to allow damp air/ moisture to exit. (Problems with damp church walls are solved by inserting unglazed clay pipes low down in the walls, and sloping downwards toward the outside )
Insulate roof as well as walls, and floor if possible.
If it is any help, with ideas, a description of my shop follows.
My shop is wood clad / framed, built in late 2003, is 10'9" x 6' 9" external, 8' feet high at front, 7'6" at rear. ..
19 mm cladding T & G outside, on 50 mm frames 12 mm ply inside. the void is filled with glassfibre insulation. The door, being a fire door is in a 100 mm framed wall. The roof is 50 mm frame, with 12 mm inner and outer cladding, insulated with glass fibre. Originally felt covered but now one piece sheet rubber.
The floor is 18 mm ply, sitting on 8" x 2" bearers, and enclosed on front and back end, to just about floor level.
Tall fence close to the back wall
The door end is bout 2 metres from the house wall, so fairly well protected .
There is a hooded, fixed vent, high on the back wall, containing an intake fan (Rarely needed ) and two smaller ones at floor level. Often I work with the door open, for light as much as for ventilation.
No windows (Space needed for shelving! )
No condensation troubles, rust virtually unknown.
With the door closed,a 2 Kw fan heater usually warms it up in about 15 minutes and then then runs for about 10 minutes each hour to maintain about 18'C.
Location UK, East Anglia, so temperatures below freezing are fairly rare.
Howard