Setting up my Myford ML 10

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Hello all,

I am setting up my first ME lathe, a restored Myford ML 10 which I bought locally a few weeks ago. I saw it run at the seller's house, but it was just sitting loosely on a bench, so it was a quick demo without any actual turning.

First order of business was building myself a bench for it in my basement, which is now complete. Top is two sheets of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed together, with some reinforcing 1×4" pine boards underneath to prevent warping. The bench is screwed at the back into a 2×4 screwed level into the wall studs. The front of the bench is supported by two heavy duty Ikea adjustable legs. The top was painted grey and covered with 3 coats of polyurethane to make it oil proof.

I levelled the bench and just put the lathe and motor stand on it to line things up. Some people put stands under the 4 mounting holes of the bed to do some fine tuning of the lathe levelling, but I figured that for my amateur use the lathe can sit on its flat bottom right on the bench, and secure it with a bolt in each mounting hole. Likewise I will secure the motor stand when I have figured out where to position it.

I've centered it, and placed it above the two table legs to minimize any sagging it could generate. That means the cross slide handles are over the top and not sticking out the front if the lathe was moved further forward.

I've also centered the lathe left to right, not presently having any plans to attach anything else to the bench (maybe a small temporary bench vise at one end).

I would appreciate any advice on how to best position the lathe on the benchtop, before actually drilling any holes.

I attach a few pictures to show you my setup so far.

Thank you.

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

[Jim CParticipant @jimc]

Hi Robert. It looks like it has had a replacement carriage handwheel fitted and in the position shown in your photos your knuckles will certainly foul the top of the bench. Bring it forward or obtain the original handwheel. Otherwise things look fine.

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Robert looking at your lathe it needs a couple of spacers under the bed and then bringing forward nearer to the front face of the bench. If you look at the web site http://www.lathes.co.uk and look for lathes then Myford and then ML10 it will give you a few ideas what it looks like with the spacers. You could make some from a couple of blocks of steel or try and buy some on the internet.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 21/04/2018 20:54:15

Edited By David George 1 on 21/04/2018 20:54:34

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Hi Jim and David, thank you for your replies.

I do have the original carriage handwheel, the previous owner had made up that bigger one for some reason.

I would prefer keeping it a bit further back from the front face of the bench, which gives room for some hand tools measuring tools etc in front of it.

Yes, I am aware that some/most place those spacers under the bed holes at head and foot of the lathe. And I gather these spacers help with fine-tuning the levelling of the lathe, but the lathe as it sits is the optimal height for me, and I'm not sure I'll be needing the absolute precision for the kinds of work I am envisioning, in the short term anyway.

Anyway, it's good for me to mull over these issues before I drill any holes in my new bench!

Cheers,

–Robert

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

I looked at the ML10 pictures on lathes.co.uk.

I see what you mean David about those spacers at the head and foot. And I can see that one such set was made from a block of steel as you suggested. Maybe I misunderstood that those spacers were there for levelling the lathe, and are really needed to elevate the bottom of the bed from the bench-top? The bottom of the bed seems well machined and flat, so I presumed it could just sit on top of the bench top, but maybe I'm wrong. Also, I can see it would be much easier to clean cuttings and oil from under the lathe, if it's sitting on those spacers. Mind you, without the spacers, no cuttings could get underneath it…

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Here's what my Speed 10 setup was like:-

The risers made the operating height more comfortable, the 4-way toolpost gave better tooling flexibilty, and the leadscrew clutch allowed use of the leadscrew handwheel and dial for accurate length control with the geartrain disconnected.

The position of the Dewhurst switch was pretty much dictated by available space and cable lengths, but worked well.

I used this successfully enough for 15 years, but eventually the desire for bigger capability overcame my natural laziness and miserliness, and I bought a Warco WM250V.

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Thanks for sharing the picture Mick. Sounds like you had a good run with the Myford for 15 years, hopefully I will also enjoy using mine for however long I can or want to.

Looks like your lathe was mounted a bit closer to the front edge of the bench than I was initially thinking for mine, so I'll have to think that over.

In my case, I had built the bench at exactly the right height so the lathe is at the ideal work height without the risers, which is one reason I would rather avoid using them if I can.

I'll also need to think about installing a proper switch for the motor, it's currently temporarily wired by the seller to demonstrate that it worked and that the lathe spun.

I'm not sure what is meant by the leadscrew clutch but I'm sure it will all make sense in the end.

A 4 way toolpost will also be in my future.

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

My first reaction Robert, was one of the painful sensation when my knuckles dipped into swarf under the hand-wheel. Not enough clearance as has already been indicated by other posters.

Only wish I still had one.

Have fun,

Sam

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Point well taken Sam. I'll replace the carriage hand-wheel with the original (smaller) one, which will buy some space. But sounds like I would be advantaged to put some spacers under there, to gain some additional space off the bench. That either means living with the lathe an inch and a bit higher than I had thought optimal (elbow height), or else disassemble the bench and relocate an inch lower on the wall (don't relish that)… Cheers.

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Robert,

The previous owner may have fitted the larger handwheel on the carriage to make movement of the carriage a bit easier. It's the one thing I don't like on my ML10 – that smallish handle on the saddle feed. So if you can get some risers to lift the lathe from the bench top you might find the larger handle better.

Jim.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

I have to wonder whether that metal bench top won't "ring" a bit if you take any cuts that cause vibes or minor chatter. That was one of the factors (apart from laziness and cheapness) that made me choose a Clarke wooden bench.

Still, if there's a problem, you could probably just interpose a plywood board under the lathe.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

You may need the spacers under the bed if you want to do screw cutting, or fine feed, and use a 60 or 70 tooth change gear on the end of the leadscrew?

I would move your lathe to the left by six inches or more, too. This gives you handy bench space at the right hand end to put tools and materials etc, away from the thrashing change gears and belts and out of the swarf zone.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

The hand wheel on the ML10 is a bit course for accurate travel, hence the Leadscrew mod. that gives you an engraved drum/wheel that fits on the outer end of the Leadscrewand has a measured 3 mm travel. Easy to set up for zero by using the top slide. The other worthwhile mod is to fit the thrust and needle bearing on the Crosslide Leadscrew.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Mick B1 on 22/04/2018 10:16:01:

I have to wonder whether that metal bench top won't "ring" a bit if you take any cuts that cause vibes or minor chatter. That was one of the factors (apart from laziness and cheapness) that made me choose a Clarke wooden bench.

Still, if there's a problem, you could probably just interpose a plywood board under the lathe.

.

Mick,

I think the photo might be a little deceptive: The text in Robert's opening post is quite clear …

[quote] Top is two sheets of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed together, with some reinforcing 1×4" pine boards underneath to prevent warping. The bench is screwed at the back into a 2×4 screwed level into the wall studs. The front of the bench is supported by two heavy duty Ikea adjustable legs. The top was painted grey and covered with 3 coats of polyurethane to make it oil proof. [/quote]

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 22/04/2018 14:44:38

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Haha, yes, it's kind of nice that my paint job gave the plywood the look of metal!

Sounds like there are enough reasons to consider adding spacer/risers under the lathe, so I will heed this advice, and hopefully it won't affect the ergonomics too much (raising my right forearm a bit when turning the hand wheels).

I also like the advice of moving the lathe a bit off center to the left, to leave some bench space open at the right.

So I suppose it would be better to move it to the left around 6 inches or so, and forward a few inches.

Now to get a hold of some spacers…

Thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it. I'll no doubt have other questions down the road…

–Robert

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

I moved the lathe to the left and to the front a bit, and now the hand wheels are conveniently clearing the front of the bench so I think it would work well at that spot, and that height, without need for spacers.

Except for the reason that Hopper indicated: "You may need the spacers under the bed if you want to do screw cutting, or fine feed, and use a 60 or 70 tooth change gear on the end of the leadscrew?"

It's too early in my lathe learning to know if the above issues are some I would eventually encounter…

Here's how the revised location could look like.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

How high up is the lathe? If you use it standing up (normal) it is nice to have it so the centres are at roughly elbow height.

Neil

[TomfileryParticipant @tomfilery]

Robert,

Don't agonise over spacers!

For my lathe (a Super 7) I drilled the worktop then passed long coachbolts (M8 I think, or or pos M10) through it, with the heads underneath. I then used the 30 mm long hexagonal spacers you get for joining lengths of studding together as nuts. I then screwed on a normal nut followed by another hex spacer, Next you put the lathe in position (on temporary wooden blocks) and screw short bolts through the feet into the top hex spacer, which you can now use to adjust the level of the lathe. Once done, you tighten the normal nut up against the top spacer (to lock it) and screw down the short fixing bolts.

My lathe had been bought with a badly drilled (in several places) deep drip/swarf tray which I replaced with an oil drip tray from Frost Automotive (meant to be slid under a vehicle to stop oil stains on the floor and approx 1200 x 600 x 15mm deep). Its a bit flimsy, but has been Ok for the last 5 years, or so ands tops most of the swarf from dropping on the floor. You might want to consider something similar.

Regards Tom

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/04/2018 16:40:56:

How high up is the lathe? If you use it standing up (normal) it is nice to have it so the centres are at roughly elbow height.

Neil

The bench height is 38.75". I had put it at that height so that with the lathe sitting flat on it the hand wheels would be in line with my elbow height. I'm glad I had read about that, it helped me to situate the bench properly.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 22/04/2018 14:39:43:

Mick,

I think the photo might be a little deceptive: The text in Robert's opening post is quite clear …

…

MichaelG.

Doh…!

Serve me right fer just lookin' at the pictures…

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Tom thanks for that suggestion about the hexagonal spacers, sounds like a very good way to go!

And indeed, getting some kind of tray under there would be beneficial to keeping things reasonably tidy in that room.

Best regards.

–Robert

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Looking at the pictures of the change-gear end of the lathe, you definitely need spacers under it. The gear train you have in place seems to have the smallest possible gear on the leadscrew, which is highly unusual. Looks like it's set up to cut a 6TPI thread or similar. For normal fine feed turning you will be running that large gear in the middle of the train on the leadscrew, so you might as well either set up the spacers now. As you have a wooden bench, a couple of bits of 4×2" wood could suffice. I've had our ML7 mounted "temporarily" on wooden packers on a steel bench for some time now and it works wonderfully. Maybe just good luck, but it cuts true to within less than half a thou, way less.

Main thing is not to agonize too much over the small stuff. Get the machine running and start using it. You will figure out mods needed along the way. Start a project such as making a simple steam engine etc you will soon find out lots of little things along the way on the lathe that need "fine tuning". as you go.

The back-board you have in place it a good idea and is a good place to put racks and shelves for tooling etc, on the right-hand half away from the belts, gears and swarf zone.

As you have already made your bench, rather than fitting a swarf tray, you could look at simply adding a raised "wall" around the outer perimeter, sticking up an inch or so. Strips of wood or aluminium screwed to the existing bench top would do the job. Seal with silicone and paint to match the bench.

[Robert St-LouisParticipant @robertst-louis87511]

Thank you Hopper for taking the time to write me such useful information and advice.

Indeed, I'll need to familiarize myself with the gear arrangement on the left of the headstock, which is setup as I acquired it. I still have a lot to learn about these type of lathes, the only lathe I own is a small swiss watchmaker's lathe, where one works with hand gravers.

Indeed, it would be good luck to have my lathe mounted on wood blocks and retain accuracy. I've seen videos and read texts about people levelling them with a dial gauge to get maximum accuracy. I'm still not sure how accurate I will need it to be for the kind of work I am envisioning doing with it initially.

As you say, most important for me will be to get it setup and running, and learn as I go along, refining my setup as I progress in my learning path.

When I nailed the wood moulding around the bench to cover the edges of the plywood, I had thought about leaving a bit of a raised portion to catch swarf, and probably should have done so. It's an option for me in the future as you suggest.

Another thing I'll need to figure out is proper wiring of the motor, which according to the guy who sold me the kit is capable of running in both directions. I'll need to get myself a proper switch to start the lathe, and an emergency stop button, to make it safe. Then setup some appropriate overhead lighting, and off I go.

Best regards.

–Robert

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