Schaublin 102VM Lathe Tailstock

[David CarneParticipant @davidcarne27247]

I have the 2 degree taper tailstock and would like to make/have made a replacement barrel with 2 Morse taper.

The original barrel is too hard to reform the taper to 2 Morse.

I have attempted to make a barrel with 1 Morse taper which to a degree is successful, but after machining the slot in the rear of the barrel released stresses led to the rear diameter of the barrel being 3 thou smaller.

Would it make any differece if the slot was machined before boring out the rear end?

Has anybody experience of manufacturing a lathe tailstock barrel or could point me in the direction of applicable articles?

David C

[David CarneParticipant @davidcarne27247]

Making a new tailstock barrel

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

David,

There was an article by Dyson Watkins on making a new tailstock barrel for his Super 7 in Model Engineers Workshop No 148 page 33.

May or may not help.

If you can’t access the article, send me a message.

Phil

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

I believe the Myford ones were made from EN8 steel. Working carefully with a four jaw chuck, fixed steady and a good quality MT2 reamer, it’s very easy to produce an excellent quality item (I’ve done it). I can’t imagine a Schaublin one throwing up any significant problems.

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

I have made quite a few tailstock barrels, some up to 5″ diameter and 15″ long.

 

The best way I have found and this is the way that suits me, there are bound to be other ways, is to start off with a piece of over size bar, not much, for a Myford sized machine, 50 thou or so.

 

First job is to put the taper in the end with it running as true as possible but a 3 jaw and steady is fine, remember you have material to take off. Completely finish the taper including the ejection slot if needed.

 

Next job is to make a ring gauge that is a nice fit on an unworn part of the original barrel, only needs to be 1″ or so long and polish internally to fit.

 

Next job is the chuck a piece of scrapbinium [TM] up and turn a morse taper to match the taper in the new barrel, DO NOT REMOVE FROM CHUCK.

then carefully push the new barrel onto the taper in the chuck and at low speed 100 to 150 revs carefully put a centre drill hole in the other end.

 

You need a low speed to stop it whipping and a completely flat surface to stop the centre drill wobbling on a pip.

 

Once you have the revolting centre in the end it’s all plain sailing, aim for a thou over and polish to fit starting at the tailstock end and working up in bands trying the ring gauge on for fit.

 

Do not let the part warm up when polishing, take your time or use coolant to keep it cool.

Also make sure the barrel is clean and lightly oiled when trying the gauge, it’s most embarrassing to find the gauge picks up and the nice new barrel [ don’t ask ]

 

Rest of the job, keep slot, thru hole etc is simple from here and depends on design.

 

As an added bonus if you can find a company that does Tuftriding get the new barrel done. Tuftriding puts a very thin hard case on the part but because it’s done at low temperatures, like 450 degrees C there is no distortion and it protects it against the dings of everyday working.

 

John S.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

Well it looks like David posted the request for help back in 2009 so he’s probably got it sorted now.

It does sound like the original barrel could be modified, if he has access to a toolpost grinder or a router like a Bosch POF 500A, which has the standard 43mm mounting collar and accepts mounted points.

 

 

Martin.

[David CarneParticipant @davidcarne27247]

Thanks to all for these suggestions.

I will have a look at MEW 148.

I think my made barrel would be good enought to use even though the rear slotted end “pulled in” by 0.003″.

When I get the time I want to have a go at replicating the Schaublin leadscrew for it as I believe they are no longer available (unless somebody has a second hand one available in good condition). If I can make one, I can then quickly interchange the barrel with the 2 degree taper original when required.

David

[alan frostParticipant @alanfrost17805]

Read the gaffer’s notes on making tailstock barrels with interest and found it full of sound common sense. My only query would be the use of scrapbinium which doesn ‘t need work to harden it (rather like a rioter ) and wonder if this could be an application for the more easily machinable Skipalloy.

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