SC2 mini lathe pops RCD when turned on?

Advert

SC2 mini lathe pops RCD when turned on?

Home Forums General Questions SC2 mini lathe pops RCD when turned on?

Viewing 3 posts - 51 through 53 (of 53 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #758597
    andy198712
    Participant
      @andy198712
      On noel shelley Said:

      If you don’t have one I can highly recommend a desoldering iron/ tool of the suction type ! It will make the job easy and almost fun and at about £80 may save other damage. I went for the type where the suction pump was in the box NOT in the handle as it made it smaller and easier to use.

      Testing the motor with a multi meter for a leak may not show much. You need an insulation tester/ megger type  running at 500v or so to get a real reading. Noel.

      Oh I’ve never heard of those, sounds better then the copper wick type rope you see!

      Advert
      #758611
      andy198712
      Participant
        @andy198712
        On Ketan Swali Said:

        Hello Andy,

        I would suggest that you call and speak with Ian at ARC for suggestions.

        Ketan at ARC

        Good shout I’ll ring your guys tomorrow, thank you !

        #758629
        Robert Atkinson 2
        Participant
          @robertatkinson2

          Hi Andy,

          The different readings on the mains input are due to capacitor charging. If your DMM has a diode test you should check the diodes in the bridge rectifier.
          With red lead on + terminal there should be over-range to the other 3 pins. Same with black on – terminal. With black lead on + terminal you shoud read about 0.6-0.8 (forward voltage) with red on either ~ terminal  and over-range with red to – terminal.
          With red lead on – terminal you shoud read about 0.6-0.8 (forward voltage) with black on either ~ terminal  and over-range with black to + terminal.
          All tests with board disconnected. When measuring between + and – you will get a very slowly changing reading so give it time to settle.

          The alternative part for the IR2110 is just lead-free http://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/infineon-technologies/IR2110PBF/ so direct replacement.

          Unless ARC come up with something and assuming the bridge rectifier checks out OK I’d change all 6 IGBTs and 3 drivers.
          Experience, somtimes with much more expensive parts, with repairing this type of high voltage equipment has shown it is a false economy to change just one part. This is even if one part is obviously faulty. The other parts may have stressed by the failure and fail next time it is turned on. Even if not damaged the new part may have slightly different charateristics and this can cause issues.

          Robert.

        Viewing 3 posts - 51 through 53 (of 53 total)
        • Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

        Advert

        Latest Replies

        Home Forums General Questions Topics

        Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
        Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

        View full reply list.

        Advert