Sawing thin stock on the 4″*4.5″ bandsaw

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Sawing thin stock on the 4″*4.5″ bandsaw

Home Forums Hints And Tips for model engineers Sawing thin stock on the 4″*4.5″ bandsaw

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  • #30500
    bricky
    Participant
      @bricky
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      #158545
      bricky
      Participant
        @bricky

        High

        Having read an article by a gent in the MEW ,I can,t find the magazine so I can,t

        pass on his name or the magazines number.

        His idea for cutting small offcuts on the saw was something that got me thinking.I had to reduce by milling some 2"* 5" end of bar to 1.25" thick.These were taking an age to reduce and tiring on the arm.As I could not reduce them by sawing I used his idea of sticking two 3"pieces of square timber together and using Gorilla glue not the woodworking one glued the billet to the timber.I wieghted the billet overnight and mounted it in the saw.It was a solid bond,so I sawed off the required .5" to leave me some cleaning up.It took 2hrs to do one but the saving on effort was worth it.Now for the 4" billets.A big thank you to the gents original idea.

        Frank Boyle

        #158553
        Les Jones 1
        Participant
          @lesjones1

          Hi Frank,
          Have a look at Rick Sparber's web page on band saw modifications. That might give you some ideas.

          Les.

          #158556
          Neil Wyatt
          Moderator
            @neilwyatt

            Hi Frank,

            Also see the next MEW, 219, which will have a very neat little mini-clamp for holding small items in the bandsaw.

            Neil

            #158559
            Brian Wood
            Participant
              @brianwood45127

              Hello Frank,

              It was my idea, I'm glad you found it helpful. For reference it appeared in MEW 211.

              I have been able to saw off washer thin slices using the method, the bond with Gorilla glue is very strong and needs a hammer and chisel to separate.

              For your 4 inch sections I would take the added precaution of using some bottom support; treat it as sacrificial and you might also make faster progress by cutting from different directions as you get into the billet to reduce the length of metal the sawblade is actually cutting. I imagine it will take a long time!

              Regards Brian

              #158800
              bricky
              Participant
                @bricky

                Hi Brian

                It would be good if it was possible to move the position but as one has to have the timber wider than the billet ,so as not to foul the vice . The timber cannot be larger than 4" high or it fouls the frame of the arm,therefore the position cannot be changed,or only if the billet is remounted and the time this would take is longer than sawing right through in one.I have not found that I need to support the billet beneath as this adhesive won't let go.I attach a large magnate to the face of the 1.5" sliver so it dose not slip down when breaking through and trapping the blade.A great idea Brian ,any more in the box.Thanks again

                Frank

                #158870
                Brian Wood
                Participant
                  @brianwood45127

                  Hello Frank,

                  I have to confess I haven't cut steel billets in that diameter so you are at the front of the curve this time. Having said that I have sawn 8 inch by 2 inch flame cut slabs on my saw, I took the vice right off and clamped things down to the base. a little ingenuity in mounting was needed but it coped very well, only one blade failure during the process. There were several cuts to extract the shape I wanted to get out of it.

                  More tips? Wel yes, I do have another simple tip which came to me yesterday but in the spirit of making it widely available I'll be offering it for inclusion in MEW.

                  Thanks again for your comments, nice to be appreciated!

                  Kind regards Brian

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