Rust and how to remove it.

[londonben10Participant @londonben10]

Thanks very much for the replies.

 

I’ve read the info and watched the Evapo-rust video, I’m going to order some now.

 

I was however wondering whether I’d get away with using the cheaper Hammerite for immersing larger items – but certainly will be trying evapo-rust on the more valuable items.

 

Regards,

 

Ben

 

Edited By londonben10 on 31/08/2011 17:21:52

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi,

 

After reading the information on the Evaporust website it seems to me to be very similar to the Restore products sold by Arc Eurotrade. Even the final dipping to prevent future rusting is the same. The Restore product (not the gel) costs £7.50 and makes 5 litres. I can thoroughly recommend it after personal experience.

Regards

 

Terry.

[Phil PParticipant @philp]

Terry

 

Looking at the Arc Euro Trade website, it looks like it has gone up in price a bit since you bought yours.

It is now listed at £11.95 for the small size to make 5 litres, or £19.50 for the 10 litre size.

 

I might give it a try sometime myself when I have used up all my evapo-rust.

 

Phil

[Cyril BonnettParticipant @cyrilbonnett24790]

just cheap vinegar, cleans rust and scale off after a couple of days soaking, light rub over with steel scouring pad.

This works as well

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm#top

 

Once worked in a boatyard engineering shop, did a lot of work on naval boats and ferrys, they bought in a company to blast the hulls, water jets and grit, the hulls were cleaned down to bare metal and then quickly coated as the metal would begin to rust straight away, the water jets would cut through a 4 inch staging plank like butter.

Be a bit drastic in the shed though

[russellParticipant @russell]

Phil P: apologies, i should have read the entire thread before posting…

 

russ

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Phil, I’v got the Arc Euro Trade catalogue No7 (latest I think), the Restore rust remover is 14.50 pound for 250ml, and 24.50 pound for 500ml, the gel is the same price, proberbly cheaper on the website. They suggest using the Restore Pre-Clean Degreaser.

Ian S C

[Cyril BonnettParticipant @cyrilbonnett24790]

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Cyril, thats a good clear view of electrolitic rust removal ( been using the method for years). One thing I have done with a new unmarked piece just made for a vintage machine for a museum, I connected the eletrode and part back to front, and induced some pitting and general ageing to match the origional machine, it was one of four similar parts, I don’t know now which is which. Ian S C

[londonben10Participant @londonben10]

I tried the Tea method on some old LGB G scale brass track.

The piece above in the photo is the result after 14 days immersion in tea, and no more than a rub down with a dish cloth.

The piece below is untreated and in the same condition as the treated piece was before it’s immersion.

I’m waiting for a friend to bring over an electric toothbrush which will hopefully finish the job and get to those hard to reach areas.

20 tea bags were brewed in a large pot, then transferred to this plastic container.

Thanks for the tip.

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi,

 

for a better explanation of Electrolytic rust removal, including current calculations and circuit diagram for a current controlled and regulated supply see here:

 

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm#top

 

Regards

Terry

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

> better explanation of Electrolytic rust removal

Better? Better? You mean my musings weren’t as clear as Londonben’s tea?

Neil

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi Neil,

 

The chemistry was ok but the application???????

 

 

Regards

 

Terry

[londonben10Participant @londonben10]

It’s an honour to be a model engineer ‘Tea Boy’ then.

 

 

 

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi,

 

I suppose if you must use acids, tannic from tea is as good as any, but I get my conc hydrochloric from a local supplier for about £3.00 Per 5 Litre ( also use citric for pickling copper – clean and cheap). Lasts a long time, dunno how many teabags that equates to. But I’m sure it’s cheaper in the long run – no teapots to buy for one thing .

 

I must admit that I’m moving to electrolytic methods myself. Keep the teabags for refreshment.  And as for Coca cola, the active ingredient is phosphoric acid and that is as cheap as chips, much cheaper than even cheap Coke clones.  Drink and enjoy the coke and buy the (cheap and cheerful) phosphoric acid for de-rusting. Look for and find friendly local chemical suppliers.

 

Better still go for electrolytic method, after lots of experimentation I am and I have a lot of de-rusting to do following my garage fire.

 

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 15/09/2011 23:16:04

[londonben10Participant @londonben10]

Sound advice Terry.

I was thinking of using a 12v hornby power supply in an electrolytic setup, as I have a couple to hand – I didn’t want to risk eroding some of the lbsc design live steam parts I aquired. Most likely they have been in someone’s shed for many decades, and have survived well, though they need to be replenished, identified and made into locomotives, either by me as a first live steam project, or perhaps if someone else had a need for that particular part?

Regards,

Ben

[TerrydParticipant @terryd72465]

Hi All,

 

As many of you know, last year I suffered a garage fire which destroyed my workshop area along with tools , materials and projects lost. I actually managed to salvage quite a bit of stuff but it was badly rusted. I have now started to really make a move on setting up my facilities again and much of that involves removing heavy rust deposits.

 

I have never used Hydrochloric (hcl) acid for de rusting before the suggestion by John Stevenson. Previously I have only used gentle solutions such as ‘restore’ but I decided to try John’s suggestion as I have a supply of hcl and the results have been astounding turning what looked like vague lumps of rust into usable items.

 

As an example I have a photograph of a centre pundh that I made from some silver steel I managed to save. Along with the punch is an example of the rusted silver steel and a piece which came straight out of the hcl followed by had a wash and brush up (it is a different diameter btw).

 

As an aside I quenched the red hot punch in motor oil to harden (cherry red) and then polished the end to allow me to temper to mid straw on a heated plate. The interesting bit is that I was always led to believe that the oil should be used motor oil and as dirty as possible. However I had no used oil so I used semi synthetic Halfords oil and achieved the best deepest black I have ever managed!

 

I will post some other results that I have acheived by reclaiming stuff.

Regards

Terry

PS the punch has been used successfully

[londonben10Participant @londonben10]

Hi All,

Sorry to ressurect this thread from last year, but regarding the mass of G scale 45mm gauge LGB Brass Railway Track I have (as mentioned above).

I didn't do the electrolysis in the end, but found a soft metal polishing kit on eBay, so I made this six minute video of the whole process on youtube – please forgive me for the simplistic terms in the video, but just in case anyone is looking to restore track, I have found this to be effective, and safe with no scratches to the track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3QX-e1YZJ0

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By londonben10 on 02/04/2012 15:07:40

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