Rust !

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Posted by Mikelkie on 11/01/2023 19:55:38:

About thirty years ago the late Basil Palmer gave me a litre of what was marked as "Duraphos" when metals is cleaned and a thin layer is applied with a rag it leaves a dull surface that does not rust. I treat everything prone to rust with it and is also a good primer for painting. I have no idea where this stuff came from or what it is, other that it works

Edited By Mikelkie on 11/01/2023 19:56:12

Sounds like phosphoric acid.

regards Martin

[Marcel JolinonParticipant @marceljolinon76204]

I go with ACF50, and a rag which I keep specifically for the job is soaked in it. A good, regular rub down is all that is needed.

Most of us have draughty, inadquatly insulated and heated workshops so hve to make the best of what we have.

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

If you don't plan to use your tools and machines for a while look up Tygris or Rocol "green moisture guard". It leaves a very lightly waxy film barrier over the surface which moisture can't penetrate.

[Bdog507Participant @bdog507]

Good afternoon all.

My workshop is two storeys, with upstairs being a metal floor of around 1000 square feet. It's also colder than a dead Penguin's goodies in winter.

I protect my machinery with 68 weight slideway oil. I nearly always use suds when turning or milling, so at the end of the day I clean the machines & apply the slideway oil. Recently it's been positively dripping in the works on some days. Yet the moisture can't get through the oil. As it's intended to be used on machinery with coolant it's resistance to water wash is considerably better than a normal light oil.

Being a motorcycle workshop I'm familiar with ACF50. It's an excellent product, but it's cost is prohibitive for use as a machinery protector.

Cheers.

Stewart.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Hollowpoint, The Recoil 'Green' `I think used to used for freshly machined parts to keep them free of rust, I still have some courtesy of 'Tug'

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Sorry about the spelling error it should read Rocol!

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

For steel to rust needs water (moisture ) and oxygen.

Removinbg oxygen from the aIr is impracticable and impossible.

A dehumifier reduces the amount bof water vapourv in the air,, and risk of condensation on the machines.

If the surface is kept above the dew point (Affected by the humidity ) there will be no condensation and less risk of rust.

If the surface can be kept warm, or the moisture prevented from condensing ontom nthe surface, rust will not occur.

Insultion slows thebrate of temperature changes.

Coating the surfaces so that moisture does not come into contract (Spsaying with oil is the obvious means ) covering with somethinbg which is inmpervious will all help.

In my old uninsulated shop, having sprayed the ML7 with oil, it would often be grey (Emulsified ) on my next visit.

In my insulated workshop (Walls, and ceiling ) this does not happen.

When it is frosty, a 60W tubular heater under the steel bench is switched on. After a day, the steel bench is warm to the touch.

The shop is small roughly 3 x 2 metres internally. Heating, when required, is by a 2 Kw fan heater.

The mini latrhe lived in the garge under a MDF cover, and is oil sprayed.

In neither case is rust a problem.

Do not use a combustion heaterr unless the products of combustion are ducted outside. For your safety, the fumes must be able to leak into the shop. So dry heat is the ideal.

Howard

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I think you mean, "…. the fumes must not be able…"

For your own safety as priority, certainly; but also the products also include water-vapour so the machines etc will not appreciate it either.

[R Johns 1Participant @rjohns1]

In addition to the dehumidifier, wd40 and oil, something I picked up on these forums. I have my grandads WWII shipwrights tool box. There was always this smell that I could not identify until a post on these forums recommending of all things moth balls! I have continued to and mothballs every now and again and I still have no major rust issues.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

It is the camphor oil in mothballs that is reputedly the above effect. In some ways there is a logic to it. If the oil readily vapourises (hence the smell) it will condense on colder items thus covering them with a layer of oil.

During the St Albans Society committee meeting yesterday one of the members who had just moved to a new-build house reported that the loft had 400mm of insulation – 16in. It does make boarding the loft more difficult.

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

I had a problem with rust on collets once (before i sealed up door gaps and installed heater and dehumidifier) and treated them to a soak in rust remover, which turned them a nasty dark grey colour (apparently draws the carbon molecules to the surface). Sent them off to someone who vapour blast’s carburettors for a living and they came back nice and shiny and covered in a thin film of this ACF50 rust inhibitor and I have used it ever since. Amazing stuff much better than WD40. Highly recommended!

 

Edited By Adam Harris on 21/02/2023 11:31:28

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

The problem with dehumidifiers I have found is that it passes the air over a cold surface to condense the moisture and in doing so blasts chilled air around the workshop which opposes the expensive efforts to warm the place up! Also dehumidifying is less effective obviously in cold weather when the difference in temperature twixt condensing plate and air is small.

Edited By Adam Harris on 21/02/2023 11:53:10

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Duraphos is advertised on the net, it is apparently a Firearms Finish, the website is American and lists the prices in dollars, doesn’t appear cheap though. Dave W

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Posted by Adam Harris on 21/02/2023 11:42:17:

The problem with dehumidifiers I have found is that it passes the air over a cold surface to condense the moisture and in doing so blasts chilled air around the workshop

Have you tried putting a thermometer on the output? My dehumidifier warms the air up by several degrees but it will feel cold on bare skin because it evaporates your perspiration faster than a plain fan would.

[Adam HarrisParticipant @adamharris13683]

My humidifier (Challenge from Argos) does extract moisture well but blasts out noticeably cold air – I certainly am happy to defer to your knowledge that it raises the air temp slightly (albeit I have no idea how it could) but it definitely does FEEL very cold. Delighted to hear that it is not undermining my expensive efforts with the oil filled radiator, and I will just aim its fan away from me

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