This forum gets my goat sometimes! John’s post in which he explains he’s mending an existing controller for a friend, not in the market for a new one, just elbowed in before this one.. John’s clarification wasn’t there before. Seems the forum doesn’t maintain strict chronological sequence, and posts are sometimes delayed; they’re in the system, but not displayed yet, reason unknown. Makes it appear as if members aren’t reading the thread properly! Doh!
Quick guide to pros and cons:
They all use inexpensive modules.
Gary Liming wrote the first rotary table driver. Uses an Arduino with a DF Robot LCD/Keypad.
The Achilles Heel of Gary’s design is the LCD module only has 5 awkwardly positioned user buttons. All the controls have to be crammed into 5 buttons. Done with a tree of nested menus, which the operator has to learn and navigate. Slow and not obvious. Also hard to add new functions because Gary’s already at the limit of what can be done conveniently with 5 buttons. That said, Gary’s rotary table isn’t that difficult to learn, and it does all the basics.
The builder has to buy the modules: plugs/sockets, Arduino, PSU, TB6600 Stepper Motor Driver, and then fit them into a box. The 5 buttons fixed to the LCD module make positioning the module on the box a tad awkward, and a man with a soldering iron might prefer to fit proper push buttons with longer leads instead.
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The limitations of Gary’s LCD-Keypad are overcome by substituting a separate 2×16 LCD module and a 4×4 keypad, also widely available and inexpensive. Having 16 buttons makes the user interface much more obvious.
My build is based on a standard hexadecimal keypad, i.e. 0 to 9, A, B, C, D, * and #. To fit I’ve relabelled common functions so Jog becomes B=Bump! Numbers can be typed directly. I’ve added a REWIND function, with backlash compensation, and the table’s worm ratio can be changed on the fly, useful if the driver is used with different tables. Other programs pre-set the ratio at compile time.
My driver has a Numeric Control feature. An optional link to a PC allows the controller to tell the PC what it’s doing, and the PC can control the stepper by sending the same format back as a command. Thus a manual job can be recorded and then played back to automatically control the table from the PC. I’ve not found it useful in practice, but if you need a controller that does baby NC, then build mine!
Like Gary’s project, the builder has to buy and assemble the hardware. Nothing critical, apart from making sure it will all fit inside the box!
My own build is almost solder free, and though the prototype’s been reliable so far, best practice is wiring looms and soldered terminations, not plugged in jumper wires!
Plenty of room for improvements. I used a Uno, but a Nano should be fine too. My TODO list includes spinning the table faster, which also requires acceleration to be ramped up and down. Not a small change cos I want to generate the pulses with a hardware timer, so I keep putting it off!
The software is free as in beer and speech.
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The advantage of the Ward is it comes pre-built, or as a kit, or as a collection of modules. Their bespoke keypad is nice! More expensive to buy but less trouble to build. A ready to go black-box is best choice for those who don’t have the time or interest in building their own, and even if you fancy a build project, kits save time!
Dave