RMC Type-B Engine Build

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RMC Type-B Engine Build

Home Forums I/C Engines RMC Type-B Engine Build

Viewing 9 posts - 26 through 34 (of 34 total)
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  • #445013
    JasonB
    Moderator
      @jasonb

      I did not take many photos of the adjustable timing bracket. Below is the lever having had a 2BA thread put on the end it was slid out of the chuck to reduce most of it's length to 3/16" leaving a 1/4" collar for the contact.

      After cutting off it was held the other way round and a decorative ball turned on the end. The collar is straight forward turning and milling and the brass cotter applies the friction to hold it in position but still allow easy movement to advance and retard the timing. I opted to use Corian as the insulators rather than the suggested materials.

      The "hemi" cylinder head was turned from some cast iron and as I don't have the large diameter ball nose cutter suggested I first drilled to depth and then hand cut the shape.

      It was then held the other face out in the soft jaws and the outer curve also shaped by hand turning with a flat ended tool.

      Finally over to the mill to drill for the fixings

      The fairly long piston can be turned from the chucking spigot that was cut off of the base casting but I chose to use some 25mm CI bar. After turning and cutting the groove for the quad ring it was held in a collet block to have assorted holes and notches cut which provide the porting for the Loyal cycle.

      The engine is designed to run on a surface vapour fuel tank which is based on a 1/2 pint "Ball" jar, to increase the surface area a felt wick is fixed to the lid and sits down in the fuel. This is held together with a central screw that is drilled for the vapour and has a reduced diameter end for a fuel pipe, here the head of the screw is being slotted.

      Some large brass washers are also needed, rather than slicing up good bar stock I had some old 1/8" brass door kick plates that were cut up and milled to thickness followed by drilling the central holes, a step drill saves the risk of a jobber drill snatching in the brass.

      They were then rounded off in the lathe.

      This is the finished vapour tank

      And the inside showing the felt wick

      Final finishing touches are a pulley to go on the other end of the crankshaft turned from the chucking piece

      And the nicely etched nameplate. This also has two recessed pockets in it to hold oil and holes are drilled through this, the bearing housing and bearings to get the oil down to where it is needed.

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      #446277
      Claudio Masetto
      Participant
        @claudiomasetto20922

        Hi Jason, I am interested in building the B type loyal engine but I would like to build it from bar stock.

        Do you know if Nick Rowland is still selling plans for this engine. I have tried to email him but I have had no response.

        Regards

        Claude.

        #446296
        JasonB
        Moderator
          @jasonb

          Claude, as far as I know Nick does not sell separate plans for any of the engines from casting kits but it is worth asking. he can take a few days to reply particularly if you e-mailed him over the weekend as he is usually busy playing with engines both full size and model.

          He does have some engines with a similar cycle that can be made from barstock and hopes to have ready made and also just plans available later in the year such as this SB2c

          #446503
          Ron Laden
          Participant
            @ronladen17547

            Nice work Jason, interesting, I picked up on the hand turning have never tried that will have to give it a go. I am guessing that the tool support bar is fixed to the tool post. The oil channel built into the nameplate is a neat idea I like that.

            #446505
            Claudio Masetto
            Participant
              @claudiomasetto20922

              Hi Jason, thanks for the response. If Nick does not sell the plans separately I will try and see if he still has the complete kit with the castings available. I really like the look of the B type engine.

              I have heard that the ring cut in the piston is for an o-ring. How does this stand up to wear when passing the ports?

              Regards

              Claude.

              #446512
              JasonB
              Moderator
                @jasonb

                Ron, The support is just the shank of a 1/2" boring bar held in the toolpost.

                Claude, Nick does have the type B engines for sale every so often in small batches on e-bay, if you add him to your saved sellers list you can keep an eye out, this is him.

                The insides of the ports are just rounded over with riffer files which reduces the risk of wear, I have run the engine without a ring so a bit of wear won't make too much difference but there will be a slight loss of compression.

                #446513
                JasonB
                Moderator
                  @jasonb

                  So with all the parts made it was time for a trial. As I mentioned earlier the homemade plug did not work at first so I used a standard length (too short) Rimfire and I also had a job getting the Viton Quad ring so initially tried a nitrile one which started to swell with the fuel/oil so I just ran without rings. It would not run that strongly or for long, not helped By the bloke who keeps playing with the carb and ignition timing!

                  After a few e-mails from Nick which gave me some pointers things have started to get better, this is it running with the home made plug and a Viton O ring which has got the compression back up. I will bite the bullet and pay the high postage to get a Viton Quad Ring from the US and also want to try one of Nicks buzz coils which should give a stronger spark than the S/S single spark CDI that I am using at the moment.

                  To start with the engine has the governor weight free to move and is running in Hit & miss mode then tightened up to run with throttle control via carb and ignition timing. It will also run in either direction though i did not show that on the video.

                  I'm undecided if I like this paint job or whether I should have stuck with the bare cast iron, this is Rustoleum "cast iron" but it's a bit light in colour and looks "flat" as in lifeless not the opposite to gloss. Skids are apple.

                  #446562
                  Ron Laden
                  Participant
                    @ronladen17547

                    Very nice, I am ok with the paint job, quite like it in fact makes a change from reds, greens and the like.I can only go by the pictures but I wouldnt say it looks lifeless in fact quite the opposite it has areas of reflected light and highlights, looks a very clean finish, well to me at least.

                    #446692
                    Claudio Masetto
                    Participant
                      @claudiomasetto20922

                      Thanks Jason. I will try to email him to see if he has the complete casting set available, otherwise I will keep a look

                      out on ebay.

                      Regards

                      Claude.

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