Reversing Switch.

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

I have bought a reversing switch off fleebay has any body wired one of these up to a 240 volt single phase motor any help would be nice, the diagram supplied means nothing to me.

Al.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251225829699?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Alan,
You would need to provide some information on the switch and the motor to enable someone to provide you with a schematic on how to connect the switch. A diagram of the connections in the connection box on the motor will be required to identify the main and start windings and capacitor and centrifugal switch.(If fitted.) Posting the diagram supplied together with information on what you do not understand about it would be a great help.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/02/2013 18:38:58

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/02/2013 18:39:33

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Hi Alan, according to that ebay listing it says an easy to understand wiring diagram is included. Might be worth contacting the seller if you didn't get one, or if you do have it can you post a photo of it and your motor details?

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Hi Alan,

Listerparts,from whom you bought the switch, is a reputable dealers, have you asked them about your problem?

Otherwise, do as Les says above, the information he suggests is the minimum required to advise you.

Phil

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Les

I too have one of these and would value some advice.

If you look in my album " Myford Reversing" you will see a copy of the information and diagram that came with the switch. I'm reasonably OK with that but am a bit confused when I come to remove the terminal cover on the (1PH) motor – ( two more pics) . You will see that the instruction there is to reverse the yellow and blue motor leads but these are at present connected to other wires and I guess that some leads need moving to the – seemingly spare? – terminals. Any ideas please?

Thanks

Norman

 

Edited By NJH on 11/02/2013 21:51:16

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Norman,
In motor terminal box.
Remove yellow wire from U1
Remove wire from capacitor that is connected to U2

Connect U1 from switch to U1 on motor.
Connect U2 from switch to U2 on motor.

Connect Z1 from switch to the yellow wire which was removed from U1
Connect Z2 from switch to wire from capacitor that was removed from U2

Connect mains neutral to N1 on switch.
Connect mains live to L1 on switch.

If the reversing switch works the wrong way round swap over the connections Z1 and Z2
so Z1 goes to capacitor and Z2 goes to yellow wire.

UNLESS YOU ARE SURE that the two unused terminals are not connected to anything else then use choc block to connect the two removed wires to Z1/.Z2 from the switch.

Alan,
DO NOT use this information without posting information on your motor and switch as they may be different.

Les.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Les

Thank you very much.

When it gets a bit warmer I will give it a go. Not the easiest job as access to the motor is, to say the least, awkward. I guess I will need to move the lathe and the splashback and loads of extra "stuff" to get at it. The choc bloc solution, as you say, is probably the safest although I will just give the motor manufacturer a call to see if they have any info. on what appear to be spare terminals as that would be the neatest way. I will let you know the outcome in due course.

Thanks again

Norman

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Norman,
One thing I forgot to mention. Make sure the frame / case on the switch is earthed assuminng it is metal.

Les.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Les

Thanks – I think I would have remembered but a memory jog is always useful!

The switch case is metal and the whole thing seems well made with a positive action. The drawing however I don't find quite as straightforward as the Dewhurst versions I've used on previous lathes.

Norman

 

Edited By NJH on 12/02/2013 11:28:35

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

Thanks guys, I spoke to a sparky mate of mine today and I had the switch with me, we went through it and seamed to make sense of it, but i will not know for sure until I get time to get to the motor when I do i will take some pics for you Les and post them, I won't wire it up till you have had a look at it, don't want to blow something, I bought the switch to go on my Bantam Lath because there is no reverse on it so I can't cut metric threads with out reverse, bet you all knew that anyway, never mind I will keep trying.

Kind Regards Alan.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Anyone seen this in SCREWFIX catalogue ref 64092 £35.83. (Crabtree 3-Way Forward, Reverse & Stop Push Button). This is 240v 10amp. Could this be used for lathe or pillar drill reverse switch?

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

Speedy

I'm pretty sure that you'll find that unit is just a set of 3 push buttons in a box, and needs to be wired back to contactors to do the actual switching. The buttons won't be interlocked mechanically or electrically. Pushing the stop button would only interrupt the power to the motor momentarily, as soon as you released it, the supply would be back on. Also 10 amp capability is not really sufficient to switch motors, as the current inrush that you'll see on a DOL start will easily get to that level even with a small motor.

With the rest of the necessary switch gear it would do what you want – that's what it is intended for – but NOT as a stand alone unit – Crabtree switch gear comes in at much higher prices that that usually.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I guess you are right. Probably possible to press up and down at the same time etc. Search continues for a low cost switch as my Boxford switch is living on borrowed time. I have swapped about rollers and fingers etc to use the less burnt up ones. I don't think it is worth looking for Berillium copper sheet and bar to make up replacements.

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

For reference

**LINK**

These would be suitable for controlling an inverter (without speed control)

As suggested above one reviewer states these are very expensive push buttons. Incidentally, does anyone know a cheap source of quality buttons like this?

Neil

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 26/12/2013 20:23:26

[joegibParticipant @joegib]

Not sure what you'd class as cheap. An outfit I've considered in the past as doing 'industrial'-style buttons is:

Challon Components Ltd

They work out at around £4-5 per button.

Joe

PS — I've not actually bought their stuff so can't vouch for its quality.

Edited By joegib on 27/12/2013 03:19:22

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Joe,

I can't believe I'm saying this, but yes £4-5 is cheap for machine control buttons. I've seen a bench drill for sale cheaper than buying the flip-up guard and switchgear alone. Or buying the motor!

Neil

[joegibParticipant @joegib]

This firm is a bit cheaper:

SRK Equipment

Postage is £3 + £1 for each additional item. So a set of 4 switches would cost £16 delivered. Rep is decent given volume of business. Probably stating the obvious but watch the switch 'sense' — most control inputs to a VFD require push-to-make (NO) switches whereas the 'Stop' input commonly requires a push-to-break (NC) switch.

Joe

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by joegib on 28/12/2013 04:57:03:

SRK Equipment

.

A small digression …

Their panel-mounted Joystick looks useful.

MichaelG.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

P.S.

That Joystick is also listed by RS, at a somewhat higher price !!

[Rufus RoughcutParticipant @rufusroughcut]

Hi Alan

Just posted these which may help the switch looks not dissimilar to a dewhurts switch attached which i've motor cable colour coded to help

Which should co-inside with this for motor

Hope this helps

Barry

[Author]

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