I am a camera collector. I took machining classes while at University 40 years ago. I now want to get back into metal working. I think I'm capable of turning and threading some replacement parts in brass.
My first posting here and I'm already in trouble. I bought a "Watchmaker's lathe" called a Nanometer model NL1. The motor is labeled "150W HC-150. AC 230V 150w 18000r/min 0.7 A CLASS E FORWARD" It looks like a sewing machine motor, if memory serves me correctly. I am looking for a replacement motor.
I don't know about "on the cheap" but that seems to be what used to sell in the UK as the Draper micro lathe. Looks like it's still made? Can you just buy a spare? OTOH it's perhaps more likely the controller has gobe, not the motor, lots of controllers available on eBay. Can you show us the motor with a rating plate?
The controller works ok. I had the motor running (no load) and it was hit and miss. I cleaned-up the commutator and got it running without sparking at the brushes. At that point it ran really well. I put it back together and under load, it won't run. I turn the shaft by hand and can feel when the brush makes contact and pulls the rotor a part turn and then nothing? The inertia is lost.
As for it being a poorly made machine, I'll be able to tell you more once it is up and running. It did come with a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck, a dead center and a tail stock drill bit type chuck.
I do not intend to become a machine shop fascist. I have enough problems having strong opinions about cameras…
Talk to the experts at ArcEurotrade – if it's Sieg, they will be able to get the parts and give you an honest opinion of if it's worth spending the money or not.
I don't know about "on the cheap" but that seems to be what used to sell in the UK as the Draper micro lathe. Looks like it's still made? Can you just buy a spare? OTOH it's perhaps more likely the controller has gobe, not the motor, lots of controllers available on eBay. Can you show us the motor with a rating plate?
Yes, it's exactly like the Draper Micro. I was even able to DL the owner's manual and a parts list… Thanks for the tip.
The controller is fine. I had it running without load and after a few hits and misses it ran at all speeds. I'm going to clean the commutator with rouge to see if that makes a difference. I'll take a picture of the info on the motor and post it tomorrow.
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/02/2016 23:44:46:
Posted by Douglas St.Denny on 08/02/2016 19:43:09:
I do not intend to become a machine shop fascist. I have enough problems having strong opinions about cameras…
.
Douglas,
I hope I did not come-across as critical of the lathe … that was not my intention when I posted the link.
For what it's worth: My little 6mm Lorch is still running on the motor culled from a Singer Sewing Machine.
MichaelG.
Not a problem Michael G. I'm the new guy here, and don't know the rules/customs of this forum. I was trying to position myself on the spectrum of machinists who might be posting. I have been bitten by the bug in my retirement, but maybe I'll recover…
I will be looking for a Singer at the local charity shop.
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 09/02/2016 08:41:09:
Douglas,
I may have been the poster alluded in an earlier post. This is the motor I use to power my milling spindle: **LINK** At least it's a european source.
HTH,
Rod
Thanks for the link, Rod. Do you find 120W is enough for your needs? I plan to do mostly brass and rarely harder material.
I have a message in to Draper asking is they have a spare parts motor. I found the parts list online once someone had tipped me to the 'Draper Micro Lathe' connection.
120W should be fine, most sewing machine motors seem to be 90W. My 120W motor is fine on the milling spindle and I think the little Unimat lathes were powered by smaller motors.
Talk to the experts at ArcEurotrade – if it's Sieg, they will be able to get the parts and give you an honest opinion of if it's worth spending the money or not.
Steve
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the plug. However, Nano is one of those machines which we keep away from for a whole number of reasons, and we avoid getting into parts for said machine. It is definitely not a watchmakers lathe, nor is it a lathe for beginners, in our opinion. Thats all we can honestly say about it.
Douglas,
With respect, my suggestion would be to start with another machine, rather then spending your money on a new motor. The learning curve on your machine will be difficult. However, if you still want to consider the motor, it is the same family as the X0 Drill/Mill motor, with perhaps are few modifications on mounting/shaft. Here is the **LINK**
ARC is unable to get you spares for the Nano, because as I mentioned earlier, this is a machine we prefer to keep away from.
lol, a "machine shop fascist" i dont think anyone should qualify or aspire to be such a thing on here, wheres the fun in that?
I started out with an old sherline lathe and mill (that i still have) that my company used for 2nd ops but didnt want anymore because sub-spindle cnc machining was replacing the need.
I've found that for a small machine, its got alot going for it, if you only want small parts that is.
Maybe you could try their motor/speed control, its fairly reasonable for a complete "ready to go" system.
I sincerely appreciate all the responses I have received.
Ketan at ARC, thanks for the link. It looks like that motor will do the job. I have bookmarked the page.
I'm not convinced that the quality of the machine I bought 2nd hand is as poor as is being alluded to. If I find that I'm unhappy with it, I'll mention it here, and tell everyone why. Value for money spent is something I take seriously.
Neil, screw cutting is farther down the list. Tapping is as far as I'm going for the moment. You don't need a Contax/Yashica to M42 adapter, do you?
Michael W. I'm a linguist by education (specialist in Aviation English) and I have always loved words. I have been called a "Grammar Nazi" more than once. Words don't hurt, intentions do.
No reply from Draper yet, re the motor for their Micro Lathe.
That's just John's facetious reference to this lathe which Neil is in the process of adapting into something useful. The Adept, available in the 1930's is widely considered to be almost, but not quite, useless for actually making things on. There is an ongoing gag about this lathe – probably best ignored
Posted by Douglas St.Denny on 09/02/2016 13:52:31:
I'm not convinced that the quality of the machine I bought 2nd hand is as poor as is being alluded to. If I find that I'm unhappy with it, I'll mention it here, and tell everyone why. Value for money spent is something I take seriously.
No reply from Draper yet, re the motor for their Micro Lathe.
Douglas
Hi Douglas,
Before you embark on this knowledge of discovery with your Nano, I would like to suggest that you have a read of this thread. It is a great insight into Brian Johns journey – as a beginner. I am suggesting this as a positive statement, with admiration for Brians perseverance. His journey is a great example of a combination of lack of user experience (nothing wrong with that), combined with limitations of the lathe he has purchased, and value for money.
You will need to keep in mind that the Nano has far more limitations than Brians machine.
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 09/02/2016 15:40:29:
That's just John's facetious reference to this lathe which Neil is in the process of adapting into something useful. The Adept, available in the 1930's is widely considered to be almost, but not quite, useless for actually making things on. There is an ongoing gag about this lathe – probably best ignored
Rod
And I thought the lathe referenced was just British spelling ! I can see that I have gotten myself in up to my ears already.
I very much enjoyed the link you posted concerning the "Adept" and "Super Adept". I find that I may become a lover of Industrial Archaeology. I especially liked the history here. http://www.lathes.co.uk/adept.htm Thanks again for the references.
Posted by Douglas St.Denny on 09/02/2016 13:52:31:
I'm not convinced that the quality of the machine I bought 2nd hand is as poor as is being alluded to. If I find that I'm unhappy with it, I'll mention it here, and tell everyone why. Value for money spent is something I take seriously.
No reply from Draper yet, re the motor for their Micro Lathe.
Douglas
Hi Douglas,
Before you embark on this knowledge of discovery with your Nano, I would like to suggest that you have a read of this thread. It is a great insight into Brian Johns journey – as a beginner. I am suggesting this as a positive statement, with admiration for Brians perseverance. His journey is a great example of a combination of lack of user experience (nothing wrong with that), combined with limitations of the lathe he has purchased, and value for money.
You will need to keep in mind that the Nano has far more limitations than Brians machine.
Ketan at ARC.
Thanks for the suggestion re the thread. I just read it and found answers to a few questions I had floating around in my head.
Draper replied – 90€ for the new motor which includes shipping to France. No stock until April or so.
I'm in no hurry, and at that price certainly not interested in pre-ordering…
I knew i had one in my very full shed, but unfortunately it is only 70w and two wires from what i can see. I have taken some photos so you can have a look. I got it from my brothers sewing machine factory which closed about 3yrs ago.
Hi all, Can I just jump in here and suggest that the motor be tested direct on to the mains, without the speed controller in circuit. It sounds like the brushes are good, and the comm is smooth and clean, and the motor is running, but not developing any power? It fails under load? If this is correct, and it is not overheating or smoking I would respectfully suggest that the speed controller IS the fault, rather than the motor. I would go through with a multimeter to check the field windings continuity and resistance, and also a visual check of the soldering of the armature wires into the commutator. No point in replacing the motor till you know it is definitely at fault. When these motors fail they usually emit lots of magic smoke. flashes and bangs. I assume the speed control is electronic, and electronics made down to a price is bad news after the initial warranty period!