Removing salvage yard paint

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

I picked up a spare trunk (boot) lid at a salvage yard and it has some marking from a paint pen.  I’m wondering what I could use that won’t damage the underlying paint.  Has anyone come across this before?  I tried removing some with a fingernail, but it’s a bit tough and I don’t want to risk scratching it.

Mike

Mike

 

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Brake cleaner is one of my go-to solvents for trying first, but experiment inside the lid first.

Bill

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

A number of Internet articles state that acetone is safe on factory car paint, while others warn against it! Perhaps a small test inside where it won’t matter.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

WD40 is my first go-to for such things. It contains a solvent of some sort but does not damage paint on cars and motorcycles in my experience. I use it regularly to remove tar and bugs from both. And I use it as my standard do-all solvent for general cleaning in the workshop. Seems to be reasonably effective and always benign.

After that, maybe methylated spirits, brake cleaner and acetone in that order, all tested on an obscure corner of the paint first.

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

Acetone works very well with the ‘ball point on a plastic bottle ‘type of metal marker. Got through 10 litres of it over three days in the mid ’80s when we renumbered all of our test instrumentation. Was rather groggy at the end of each session!

It’ll do a number on cellulose paint, but will only soften newish, not fully hardened, 2K paint .

[David JuppParticipant @davidjupp51506]

The edge of credit card or similar can be used as a fairly effective scraper for paint ‘splashes’ on car paintwork  – though the edge is lost relatively quickly.

Last traces can be removed with ‘T-cut’ or similar.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Caustic soda or oven cleaner was the old trick for removing signwriting before the days of stick on !  Noel.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Try in this order for lowest risk

Meths (Ethanol / Methanol)

Lighter fluid (Naptha)

Brake cleaner (???)

Acetone.

Test a inside surface first with solvent on a white rag and see if colour comes off.

Robert.

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

Going by the demonstarations they used to do at shows, Mer car polish should be ideal. I suspect it’s the solvent part of it (probably similar to WD40) that does most of the work, assisted by the mild abrasive. One advantage would be you end up with a nice shiny part at the end of it.

Rob

[MacolmParticipant @macolm]

If no safe solvent is found, a possible labourious approach to try is a Swann Morton ACM No 17 Blade, and using a magnifying glass to aid precise control. It must be a brand new blade which will have a perfect edge, and you can utilise the bevel for precisely control of the height of the cut. If lucky, it will be possible to pick off the unwanted paint without damaging the main surface. Probably then T cut to remove last traces.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

You could always ask the salvage yard you bought it from. They must deal with the issue all the time. And they would know what kind of pen/paint they use to mark parts with.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Rob has said MER, but brasso or  T cut will do the same job. Noel

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Wow, thanks for all of the responses, guys.  I have acetone and brake cleaner but was reluctant to start with those.  WD40 won out as I think it’s the mildest thing I have besides isopropanol.  The cotton ball that I used showed only the yellow paint came off.  Whew!  I followed it with a mild car detailing “cleaner”.

My 1990 Mazda Miata (MX5) appreciates the help.

Mike

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Good to hear of a satisfactory outcome ! Noel.

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