Reliance drill grinding attachment.

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Thanks for that.

It doesn't look like it would be easy to judge whether something is accurately parallel to that little mark.

I checked mine again… nothing there at all.

I can't quite work out from the photo how the line relates to the sides of the Vee – is it near parallel to one side or does it more or less bisect the vee?

One of the pics on lathes UK (third photo down) seems to have multiple parellel lines but I'm not sure if those are the relevant lines. They look like they might be near parallel to the right hand edge of the vee… but with the whole end having jaunty angles it's hard to be sure.

Regards, Andy

[Fowlers FuryParticipant @fowlersfury]

Andy, it's a LONG time since I used the Reliance – now have a Quorn – so I offer that as an excuse if the following is irrelevant.
I've been thinking about this "mark" on the trough and it led me back to the link you were sent in 2018 to the Reliance, 2-sided instruction sheet.
It appears that from the instruction sheet version I have, a reference to "the mark" when first setting the drill to be sharpened is absent. On my sheet, this image below seems to be the scant info on how to set the drill's radial position in the trough once this previous instruction is completed > "PLACE DRILL IN TROUGH AND ROTATE DRILL UNTIL LOWER CUTTING EDGE OF DRILL ASSUMES A VERTICAL POSITION"
Then……

Reference there to "indent" I take to mean – from the photo – the twist drill's spiral. In fact there's no reference to any mark on the front of the trough.
My instruction sheet shows there were 3 sizes of Reliance DGJ marketed 1/8 to 1/2", 1/4 to 1", 1/4 to 2". The images show sharpening a taper drill > 1/2" so it may well be that this infamous mark only appeared on the smallest jig.
If you wish I'll email you a high res copy of my instruction sheet – send me a PM.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Here you go folk, I've just been playing with the camera, some Tippex and a black paint marker.
N.B. I've not set the correct drill projection for the diameter, for depth of field reasons, but you get the idea.
The No1 jig for up to ½" seems to have the line at a slightly different angle, but it's all a bit hard to tell, as the castings are rough and the corner is cut off at a different angle as well.
The No2 is easier to measure, as rather than just a line, there is a definite step in the casting.

Yes I know I've not quite got the core drill lined up correctly.

When in use, I've actually got a bit of aluminium angle with a flat along the outer corner.
This means I can clamp down along the flutes, rather than just having a point contact as shown here.
I picked these two drill bits as they contrasted better than newly sharpened ones

Some of the parts really weren't that precisely made; e.g. the clamping arrangement on the No2

Bill
 

Edited By peak4 on 07/08/2022 21:44:48

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

As I see it the picture implies that a thin sharp edge, such as a razor bled, placed vertically on the end of the trough should contact both the spiral lands when the drill is pushed forwards to the correct position.

If that is the case the narrow slot, rather than engraved line, described by Roy would be a pretty effective optical gauge to help set things by eye. Basically look down from above the drill and the outer edge of the slot should be just visible past the two edges of the spiral lands.

Unfortunately I don't have practical experience of the Reliance jig. Merely seen one used many years ago.

Clive

[Andy CarlsonParticipant @andycarlson18141]

Thank you all gents. The tippex and end-on shot helps a lot.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Posted by Andy Carlson on 07/08/2022 23:12:35:

Thank you all gents. The tippex and end-on shot helps a lot.

No problem, on my No.1 in the photo, there is a defined angle on the casting, just behind the vertical red arrow.
The white line just to the left of it was scribed by something sharply pointed, maybe 1.5mm away from the corner but parallel to it.
I've just deepened it slightly with a knife edged needle file, filled in the groove with Tippex and enhance the black crackle finish around the edge a bit.
There is no actual scribed line on the No.2. but a step in the casting, which effectively makes a line where it intersects with the cut off corner.

That third photo on Tony's site would appear to be of the  rarer one, just smaller than the No3 jig, the big one, as it also has the additional Y shaped middle drill support, so the front is obviously a lot larger; as such I suspect those lines are intentionally milled in.

Bill

 

Edited By peak4 on 07/08/2022 23:31:25

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Thank you for this thread! It sent me down the garden to collect my jig and study it in conjunction with these texts.

I have tried using it, and was on the right track but had not realised the subleties. Nor known part of it is missing – the end-stop.

It also seems rather uncertain on the pin that retains the rotating stem in the frame, so it is very easy to have a lot of wobble in the thing. Playing with it here, as I type this, I think this is a matter of skill and a delicate touch with the adjusting-screws, not the result of undue wear.

.

Paul –

I followed the link to Harold Hall's instructions, and have book-marked that.

.

Fowler's Fury –

Your and others' photos have identified mine as a 'Reliance' and it does have what seems a figure '1' hidden shyly away in the base recess.

It lacks the drill end-stop you show; so your picture answers my puzzle about how to turn the drill round to the other face while keeping the length constant.

It would be simple enough to make a replacement, especially if the triangular part is round rod instead. Square bar would be appropriate – turn a spigot to fit into its holder part; pin and glue.

(A triangular bar would be easy to mill using a dividing-head or Vee-block to give the 90º working angle. Since he is cited above, see Harold Hall's book on grinding, to sharpen the cutter!)

[Jon Harrison 3Participant @jonharrison3]

A bit late to this one but just to say thanks fellas.

I picked up my No.1 at a car boot some years back. Still in it's original box but minus instructions so it got confined to the "to it" shelf. Hopefully now armed with instructions and this this topic's really useful input I can put it to good use.

Might be the odd daft question to follow.

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Jon,

I think no question is daft as such. It might seem so to those who already have the knowledge but we all have to learn to start with, whatever it is.

To all the helpful replyers on this thread – I acquired a Reliance jig many years ago but put it on one side thinking I'll look at that sometime- another roundtoit. With the replies above, now may be a good time to take another look.

John

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

One point worth remembering when reading the instructions and using the unit is the more overhang beyond the pivot point, the less clearance behind the cutting lip and also the reverse is true. Noel.

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

I've got a Picador, a Spiralux and a Reliance number 1 drill grinding jig.

Out of the three, the Reliance is my least favourite. Although it's of more robust build quality than the other two, in use I find there are several disadvantages to it:

• Because it grinds with a rocking rather than a sweeping motion, you can't pivot it out of the way of the wheel when you want to remove a drill to reinsert it to do the second lip; some disassembly is required, which is prejudicial to repeatability.
• Lining up the lip by eye with a crude groove in the casting is never going to result in repeatability as good as rotating the drill until its flute contacts a pointer; on the Picador, which is my go-to jig, I don't even need to use my eyes to know I've indexed it correctly. This is a bonus for those of us with presbyopia.
• The shaft that you rock to produce the grind on the Reliance is captive, up to a point, at its base on a pointed screw that acts as a dead centre, but free to rise off its seat at the top unless slight downward pressure is exerted at all times when grinding.
• There is no choice of grinding angles.

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

I have both a No.1 and No.2 Reliance jig. The smaller I use on a Clarkson T&C and the larger on a Union pedestal grinder with a fixture I have made to present it to the wheel. Both these devices appear to be cheaply and roughly made (talk about the Chinese!) but they do work. The only thing I have found is that they do not grind an included angle of 118 deg's, it is somewhat more acute, and I have been meaning to modify the point angle but as the drills seem to work anyway I have never found time to do this. I envy those who can sharpen drills freehand!

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

I was quite good at sharpening twist drills back in the day, afraid my eyes just aren't good enough even with glasses to make a decent job of them these days.

Tony

[Robert DoddsParticipant @robertdodds43397]

Steve,

May I reinforce Fowlers Fury's comment re drill point overhang beyond the end of the trough. This should be between 2 1/2 and 3 times the drill diameter. More projection give less back clearance on the flute and less projection gives more back clearance.
Of equal import is the matching of the alignment of the flute cutting edge to the "engraved" mark on the end of the trough and ensuring that when you turn the drill through 180 degrees in the trough that you accurately match the first setting. Failure will mean one flute cuts heavier and is likely to produce an oversize hole.

The Reliance is fundamentally a good tool but starts to be more erratic at sizes below 1/8", the point at which it could be most beneficial for old codgers and novices alike. (For different reasons) but in most cases the small drills are nowadays relatively low cost and can be treated as expendable.

Regards Bob D

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