Reilang oil cans, fit for purpose?

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Having invested a fair sum for a 300ml Reiland oil can, I have found that it leaks badly form the can to screw in top. The top part which is threaded has two large flats where the thread is absent. The leak occurs from these areas even though there is a flat rubber washer that is supposed to seal the joint. A club member that I spoke to has the exact problem. How do Reilang continue to sell oil cans like this?

I have tried different o rings and rubber washers, and the pump continues to leak.

As the can would have to be laid flat in my tool box it is not fit for purpose and will have to be returned.

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

[JAParticipant @ja]

I needed a new small oil can a few months ago and was seduced into buying a Reilang can. While I have not had problems there is nothing fancy or special about it. I paid extra money for a name and fancy shape.

JA

Edited By JA on 07/06/2021 11:39:33

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

I went for the one with the cheaper plastic can. Works OK, although I had to rework the tip to fit the button oilers on my WM250. Should I have gone for the alloy canned version? Time will tell no doubt.

[Phil SParticipant @phils66830]

Fixed mine (for upright storage) with a green fibre central heating pump washer.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Am intrigued by the "flat rubber washer"

On mine, the top is sealed to the reservoir with an O ring. NEVER had a leak.

Try replacing the flat rubber with an O ring of about 4 mm section.

Bought my Reilang because another oil gun leaked so badly. Am a big fan! Costly, but good, and works at any angle without a leak.

Howard

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 07/06/2021 14:20:54:

Am intrigued by the "flat rubber washer"

On mine, the top is sealed to the reservoir with an O ring. NEVER had a leak.

Try replacing the flat rubber with an O ring of about 4 mm section.

Bought my Reilang because another oil gun leaked so badly. Am a big fan! Costly, but good, and works at any angle without a leak.

Howard

Hi Howard

I tried an O ring of about 2mm section, was yours supplied with a 4mm O ring from new?

May try a larger section.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hi Bryan,

Have just checked mine.

The two flats are there so that the dies can be opened to release the pressure die casting.

The O ring is 3 mm section and merely seals between the flat face of the upper casting (carrying the "works" and nozzle ), and the top of the reservoir.

It looks as if the O ring seats against the metal outside the thread in the top of the reservoir.

So the seal should be made between two flat faces, even if the lower one is narrow.

Are both surfaces free from defects / debris that would affect sealing?

Howard

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

A question that unfortunately has to be asked these days. Is it actually a genuine Reilang or a cheap imitation being sold as genuine?

John

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

My oilcan is a genuine "No -Name " product about 40 years old. Cannot understand why it does not leak, there must be something wrong with it. I cannot bring it back since I have long forgotten where I bought it.

I feel so let down !

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 07/06/2021 15:40:03:

Hi Bryan,

Have just checked mine.

The two flats are there so that the dies can be opened to release the pressure die casting.

The O ring is 3 mm section and merely seals between the flat face of the upper casting (carrying the "works" and nozzle ), and the top of the reservoir.

It looks as if the O ring seats against the metal outside the thread in the top of the reservoir.

So the seal should be made between two flat faces, even if the lower one is narrow.

Are both surfaces free from defects / debris that would affect sealing?

Howard

Hi again Howard.

Surfaces are fine. Cannot understand how an O ring would work as lower surface of container is only about 1.5mm wide and would squeeze O ring to one side. Perhaps a non stretchy type would be needed. I tried an identical flat washer perhaps of a different composition and it works OK if not screwed up too tight. The design is all wrong as there is no groove or channel to stop the sealing washer being squeezed out. I may machine an outer sleeve that is a tight fit on the container that embodies a raised edge to prevent the side movement of the washer.

There are signs of seepage from the plunger when the can is laid on its side. These oil cans are certainly over rated.

One should not have to do such things. I still have the option to return the oil can to to Amazon.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Maybe its time to dust off the back issues and unearth the Eagle 66 copy plans and article. By Stewart Hart I think.

On my round-tu-it list. But rather far down.

Often felt that the common oil can oil leak / drip issues are due to residual air pressure in the spout and body. If the only way out is fully or partially obscured by an oil film it's going to leak. I'm pretty sure the main drips from my "no-name" Westco(?) knock offs purchased from a car accessory shop mumble mumble years ago are due to residual pressure in the spout.

Seems that modifying the Eagle copy valving to de-pressurise the spout and body once pumping stops should be possible. Difficult part will be getting the delay right. Too short and it will need full or partial re-priming after every pump. To long and it will still drip. It is said in certain quarters that one of the springs on the floating valve has been varied over the years in attempts to suppress any leak tendency without interfering with the priming process.

Oil viscosity will have a major impact so a fixed system may be difficult.

Any decent oil has creeping tendencies so little encouragement is needed to promote escape.

Clive

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I'd never thought of them as suitable for storage in anything but the upright position. They do make some with a cap for the spout which may be more suited for carrying about in a toolbox.

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

Is it leaking from the thread seal, or is it leaking from around the pump lever when placed on it's side?

Mine has to be stored upright. I have no oil cans that can be stored sideways. Mine all leak from around the pump lever.

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Posted by Neil Lickfold on 07/06/2021 20:28:52:

Is it leaking from the thread seal, or is it leaking from around the pump lever when placed on it's side?

Mine has to be stored upright. I have no oil cans that can be stored sideways. Mine all leak from around the pump lever.

Hi

It is leaking from the thread seal and slightly from the pump lever rod. It never occurred to me that these so called the Rolls Royce of pumps could not be stored on their sides. I can modify the seal washer system by machining a collar to hold the washer from being squeezed out of position.

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

I have several of these oil cans and they are excellent. The flat base of large diameter perhaps gives a clue as to the intended orientation when not in use. I cannot think of any other oil can I have, or seen which would not leak when stored on its side. In fact I have Wesco's old and new which leak when stood in the upright position??!!

Robert Butler

[Chris Kirby 1Participant @chriskirby1]

I have a Reilang number 3 bought secondhand some years ago that has full threads, no flats. From memory I changed the flat washer, which I think was cork and breaking up, to an o ring. Fine oil can but can't say about leaking when laid down, it liveson the shelf.

Chris

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

This is why they [are] [were] [should-be] so good: **LINK**

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/patent/search?q=pn%3DUS2765963A

It would be interesting to see how ‘current production’ compares.

MichaelG.

.

On Espacenet: the column of three dots offers a download

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

My Reilang is always hung over the edge of an old bakingb vtray, on a high shelf. Which explains why I have never experienced oil leaking when it is on its side.

Certainly, in use, it is at a wide variety of angles, and never leaks. But possibly not ther for long enough.

Try storing it up righti. If it doesn't leak when in use, problem solved.

In my book it functions as it should (Better than may others ) so is fit for purpose.

I don't expect that the design brief covered storage lying down.

Howard

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

An interesting link Michael, apart from the details of the oil can it explains the root of the name Reilang (Reinhold Langguth)

Mike

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 08/06/2021 10:30:50:

My Reilang is always hung over the edge of an old bakingb vtray, on a high shelf. Which explains why I have never experienced oil leaking when it is on its side.

Certainly, in use, it is at a wide variety of angles, and never leaks. But possibly not ther for long enough.

Try storing it up righti. If it doesn't leak when in use, problem solved.

In my book it functions as it should (Better than may others ) so is fit for purpose.

I don't expect that the design brief covered storage lying down.

Howard

Hi Howard

The only reason that my Reilang needed to be stored on its side was to pack in my tool box to take to track, too tall to place upright. I have discovered that a PTFE sealing ring is available in Germany at over $9 plus excessive shipping charge. The claim is made that the PTFE one is more chemical resistant. It seems that Reilang are aware of a problem with the rubber seal. The German site states that the O ring was replaced with a flat rubber washer. Answer may be to machine a PTFE washer although not sure that PTFE would make a good seal.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

the thread on mine (EL1) appears to be machined, no flats, and the body seals to the pump bit with a flat washer.

It has never occurred to me to store it other than upright.

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

You can buy quad rings which are square section orings and in Viton. As far as I know, most oils won't break down the Viton rubber. They come in 2 hardness grades as well, around 90 shore the harder one, and around 70 shore the softer one. They used to be different colours as well, but I think they are all black now.

If you figure out how to stop it leaking around the pump handle I will be all ears.

I found the source of the leak for mine in the patent drawing. There is no seal between the lifting rod of the pump and bushing that it runs in. So I guess over time it wears loose or was a bad initial fit, but mine is very old. So the oil will leak out of it over time. I am thinking that it has a certain amount of clearance to allow air back into the can when the oil is pumped out of it, and that the length of the bushing allows for when it falls over, not to leak straight away. So my problem is solved, thanks to the patent drawings.

Thanks, Neil

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 08/06/2021 11:49:37

[Stewart HartParticipant @stewarthart90345]

Hi Bryan

Her's a picture of my eagle type oil can, I've got a Reilang can and can say the eagle is just as good but in making it I did find one important thing out if you have a perfect seal the can won't work you need to let air into the top of the can to fill the space of the displaced oil as all you are doing is creating a vaccum, I also never fill it above the plunger as this is another area it can leek from, I regularly take the eagle to the track I just keep it standing up, that's why cans of this type have a nice flat base.

Take care I'll call soon

Stew

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

I have long suspected that there is a subtle relationship between internal air pressure variation and oil can leak propensity.

It would seem logical that if the air pressure in the can and pump inlet delivery system can be maintained slightly below atmospheric during operation any oil attempting to leak past seals, joints et al will tend to be drawn back into the can. If final pressure equalisation after use were via the delivery spout that would tend to clear any remaining oil.

The main leaks from mine when resting are from the spouts. Oil seems to creep up rather than drop back. Possibly because the spouts are simple transparent plastic tube with a wire stiffener inside so they hold any bend. Wire in tube is a known way of encouraging capillary flow.

The $64,000 question is how to affordably provide such pressure control without upsetting priming, suction into the pump and oil delivery.

It seems relatively easy to make a system that requires priming after each delivery pump but that would be incredibly irritating to use. The common chemical lab wash bottle is an excellent, cheap, example of such a system. Squeezing the bottle pumps the fluid up through the nozzle. Releasing it draws air back through the nozzle clearing the tube preventing leaks. Possibly something clever could be done with a double acting pump.

The Reilang patent linked to by Michael G seems to make reference to venting arrangements contributing to such pressure control.

I imagine the reported variations in leak performance are primarily due to small variations in insufficiently controlled dimensions leading to different air and oil leak path resistance leading to a different pressure variation profile.

One things for sure any pump oil can leak free by design needs the pump unit completely sealed from the can save for the suction pipe. If its going to be leak free regardless of spindle orientation it will also need a positive tap or screw down seal on the can vent. A simple spring seal won't be enough. Devices of this style have been made for other purposes. The one I encountered was for military purposes. The price tag was significantly more impressive that the (excellent) performance!

Clive

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