rapidor manchester hacksaw

[richard Parsons 2Participant @richardparsons2]

hello there.

I have a question about my rapidor manchester saw .

would any body know where I can find spares please as im looking for the clutch leaver that engages the drive to the reciprocating saw . pluss im also looking for the spring and retaing hub that go on the fly wheel.

any advice would be grately appreciated

[richard Parsons 2Participant @richardparsons2]

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Richard, I don't anywhere you are likely to find spares, per se, as they stopped making them in the 1970's I believe, your best bet might be to find another one that is selling as spares or repair, or buy one that's fully working and sell the one you have for spares/repair.

Regards Nick.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

If you are stuck I can measure components off my "spare" saw that's been waiting for ages to be rebuilt.

That said later versions, like the one I use, are direct drive by two belts via countershaft to get the necessary speed reduction. Controls are a simple push button Direct on Line starter with an industrial rated microswitch in the coil circuit to turn it off at the end of the cut. Last of the older ones on open legs use the same saw bow assembly as the solid base type like the one I use so the castings have provision to operate the microswitch.

Never used one with the clutch mechanism but frankly I don't see any great need for it id the machine has its own motor rather than being driven by line-shaft. My spare was hooked up to a line-shaft running in a trough in the floor. But a late type self contained one turned up at a price too low to refuse about a week after picking the "spare" up.

Clive

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi there were a few different models, my one is like the ones in the Rapidor photos Lathes.co.uk

Regards Nick.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Clutches were more of thing in the distant past when electric motors did not like too much stopping and starting. The motors had a thermal overload cutout and after so many stops and starts would just sit there until it cooled down and reset. With a modern motor a clutch is not so necessary.

[richard Parsons 2Participant @richardparsons2]

thank you for the advise .

I think I will do away with the clutch / drive leaver and add a limit switch so that when the saw hits the bottom of the cut it will shut off , I will have to have one side of the hindge machined flat and machine a spacer to alow the saw to be in pernament drive . ill have a good think about it once I've got it all stripped down ready for re paint . I'm enjoying videoing my progress on YouTube 😀

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Richard

This is how the factory did the limit switch to stop the direct drive, clutchless, versions of the machine at the end or the cut.

Basically an industrial microswitch unit fixed to the main frame with a carrier for the actuating bolt on the pivoting pin the bow and slides ride on. Bolt sits as close to the full radius of the pin as it can. Probably better to fix a longer bracket across the pin so the bolt moves on a bigger arc. Mine is a bit sensitive when it comes to adjustment. Difference between stopping before cutting off and never stoping at all is a very small fraction of a bolt turn. 1/4 BSF thread on mine I think.

Picture is a bit murky 'cos everthing is the same blue-grey oily colour but you should get the idea. Saw bow in parked raised position.

Clive

 

Edited By Clive Foster on 13/12/2022 16:48:50

[richard Parsons 2Participant @richardparsons2]

thanks that looks like a good set up . I'm gonna machine a bushing to make it in drive mode and fit a switch so that when the saw reaches the end of cut it will switch off.

regards

Rick

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